essays-1-第40节
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inferior； both in weight and in its qualities； to that which is the produce of colder climates。Indian Corn of the growth of Canada； and the New England states； which is generally thought to be worth twenty per cent。 more per bushel than that which is grown in the southern states； may commonly be bought for two and sixpence； or three shillings a bushel。
It is now three shillings and sixpence a bushel at Boston； but the prices of provisions of all kinds have been much raised of late in all parts of America； owing to the uncommonly high prices which are paid for them in the European markets since the commencement of the present war。
Indian Corn and rye are very nearly of the same weight； but the former gives rather more flour； when ground and sifted； than the latter。I find by a report of the Board of Agriculture； of the 10th of November 1795； that three bushels of Indian Corn weighed 1 cwt。 1 qr。 18 lb。 （or 53 lb。 each bushel）； and gave 1 cwt。 20 lb。 of flour and 26 lb。 of bran； while three bushels of rye； weighing 1 cwt。 1 qr。 22 lb。 （or 54 lb。 the bushel）； gave only 1 cwt。 17 lb。 of flour and 28 lb。 of bran。 But I much suspect that the Indian Corn used in these experiments was not of the best quality＇13＇。
I saw some of it； and it appeared to me to be of that kind which is commonly grown in the southern states of North America。 Indian Corn of the growth of colder climates is； probably； at least as heavy as wheat； which weights at a medium about 58 lb。 per bushel； and I imagine it will give nearly as much flour＇14＇。
In regard to the most advantageous method of using Indian Corn as Food； I would strongly recommend； particularly when it is employed for feeding the Poor； a dish made of it that is in the highest estimation throughout America； and which is really very good； and very nourishing。 This is called hasty…pudding； and it is made in the following manner： A quantity of water； proportioned to the quantity of hasty…pudding intended to be made； is put over the fire in an open iron pot； or kettle； and a proper quantity of salt for seasoning the pudding being previously dissolved in the water； Indian meal is stirred into it； by little and little； with a wooded spoon with a long handle； while the water goes on to be heated and made to boil； great care being taken to put in the meal by very small quantities； and by sifting it slowly through the fingers of the left hand； and stirring the water about very briskly at the same time with the wooden spoon； with the right hand； to mix the meal with the water in such a manner as to prevent lumps being formed。 The meal should be added so slowly； that； when the water is brought to boil； the mass should not be thicker than water…gruel； and half an hour more； at least； should be employed to add the additional quantity of meal necessary for bringing the pudding to be of the proper consistency； during which time it should be stirred about continually； and kept constantly boiling。 The method of determining when the pudding has acquired the proper consistency is this；the wooden spoon used for stirring it being placed upright in the middle of the kettle； if it falls down； more meal must be added； but if the pudding is sufficiently thick and adhesive to support it in a vertical position； it is declared to be PROOF； and no more meal is added。If the boiling； instead of being continued only half an hour； be prolonged to three quarters of an hour； or an hour； the pudding will be considerably improved by this prolongation。
This hasty…pudding； when done； may be eaten in various ways。 It may be put； while hot； by spoonfuls into a bowl of milk； and eaten with the milk with a spoon； in lieu of bread； and used in this way it is remarkably palatable。It may likewise be eaten； while hot； with a sauce composed of butter and brown sugar； or butter and molasses； with or without a few drops of vinegar； and however people who have not been accustomed to this American cookery may be prejudiced against it； they will find upon trial that it makes a most excellent dish； and one which never fails to be much liked by those who are accustomed to it。 The universal fondness of Americans for it proves that it must have some merit；for in a country which produces all the delicacies of the table in the greatest abundance； it is not to be supposed that a whole nation should have a taste so depraved as to give a decided preference to any particular species of Food which has not something to recommend it。
The manner in which hasty…pudding is eaten with butter and sugar； or butter and molasses； in America； is as follows： The hasty…pudding being spread out equally upon a plate； while hot； an excavation is made in the middle of it； with a spoon； into which excavation a piece of butter； as large as a nutmeg； is put； and upon it； a spoonful of brown sugar； or more commonly of molasses。 The butter being soon melted by the heat of the pudding； mixes with the sugar； or molasses； and forms a sauce； which； being confined in the excavation made for it； occupies the middle of the plate。The pudding is then eaten with a spoon； each spoonful of it being dipt into the sauce before it is carried to the mouth； care being had in taking it up； to begin on the outside； or near the brim of the plate； and to approach the center by regular advances； in order not to demolish too soon the excavation which forms the reservoir for the sauce。
If I am prolix in these descriptions； my reader must excuse me； for persuaded as I am that the action of Food upon the palate； and consequently the pleasure of eating； depends very much indeed upon the MANNER in which the Food is applied to the organs of taste； I have thought it necessary to mention； and even to illustrate in the clearest manner； every circumstance which appeared to me to have influence in producing those important effects。
In the case in question； as it is the sauce alone which gives taste and palatableness to the Food； and consequently is the cause of the pleasure enjoyed in eating it； the importance of applying； or using it； in such a manner as to produce the greatest and most durable effect possible on the organs of taste； is quite evident； and in the manner of eating this Food which has here been described and recommended； the small quantity of sauce used； （and the quantity must be small； as it is the expensive article；） is certainly applied to the palate more immediately； by a greater surface；and in a state of greater condensation； and consequently acts upon it more powerfully；and continues to act upon it for a greater length of time； than it could well be made to do when used in any other way。Were it more intimately mixed with the pudding； for instance； instead of being merely applied to its external surface； its action would certainly be much less powerful； and were it poured over the pudding； or was proper care not taken to keep it confined in the little excavation or reservoir made in the midst of the pudding to contain it； much of it would attach itself and adhere to the surface of the plate； and be lost。
Hasty…pudding has this in particular to recommend it；and which renders it singularly useful as Food for poor families；that when more of it is made at once than is immediately wanted； what remains may be preserved good for several days； and a number of very palatable dishes may be made of it。It may be cut in thin slice； and toasted before the fire； or on a gridiron； and eaten instead of bread； either in milk； or in any kind of soup or pottage； or with any other kind of Food with which bread is commonly eaten； or it may be eaten cold； without any preparation； with a warm sauce made of butter； molasses； or sugar； and a little vinegar。In this last…mentioned way of eating it； it is quite as palatable； and I believe more wholesome； than when eaten warm； that is to say； when it is first made。It may likewise be put cold； without any preparation； into hot milk； and this mixture is by no means unpalatable； particularly if it be suffered to remain in the milk till it is warmed throughout； or if it be boiled in the milk for a few moments。
A favourite dish in America； and a very good one； is made of cold boiled cabbage chopped fine； with a small quantity of cold boiled beef； and slices of cold hasty…pudding； all fried together in butter or hog's lard。
Though hasty…puddings are commonly made of Indian meal； yet it is by no means uncommon to make them of equal parts of Indian； and of rye meal；and they are sometimes made of rye meal alone； or of rye meal and wheat flour mixed。
To give a satisfactory idea of the expence of preparing hasty…puddings in this country； （England；） and of feeding the Poor with them； I made the following experiment：About 2 pints of water； which weighed just 2 lb。 Avoirdupois； were put over the fire in a saucepan of a proper size； and 58 grains in weight or 1/120 of a pound of salt being added； the water was made to boil。During the time that is was heating； small quantities of Indian meal were stirred into it； and care was taken； by moving the water briskly about； with a wooden spoon； to prevent the meal from being formed into lumps； and as often as any lumps were observed； they were carefully broken with the spoon；the boiling was then continued half an hour； and
