essays-1-第32节
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The bread we use at Munich is what is called semel bread； being small loaves； weighing from two to three ounces； and as we receive this bread in donations from the bakers； it is commonly dry and hard； being that which； not being sold in time； remains on hand； and becomes stale and unsaleable； and we have found by experience； that this hard and stale bread answers for our purpose much better than any other； for it renders mastication necessary； and mastication seems very powerfully to assist in promoting digestion： it likewise PROLONGS THE DURATION OF THE ENJOYMENT OF EATING； a matter of very great importance indeed； and which has not hitherto been sufficiently attended to。
The quantity of this soup furnished to each person； at each meal； or one portion of it； （the cuttings of bread included；） is just ONE BAVARIAN POUND in weight； and as the Bavarian pound is to the pound Avoirdupois as 1；123842 to 1； it is equal to about nineteen ounces and nine…tenths Avoirdupois。 Now； to those who know that a full pint of soup weighs no more than about sixteen ounces Avoirdupois； it will not； perhaps； at the first view； appear very extraordinary that a portion weighing near twenty ounces； and consequently making near ONE PINT AND A QUARTER of this rich； strong； savoury soup； should be found sufficient to satisfy the hunger of a grown person； but when the matter is examined narrowly； and properly analyzed； and it is found that the whole quantity of SOLID FOOD which enters into the composition of one of these portions of soup； does not amount to quite SIX OUNCES； it will then appear to be almost impossible that this allowance should be sufficient。
That it is quite sufficient； however； to make a good meal for a strong healthy person； has been abundantly proved by long experience。 I have even found that a soup composed of nearly the same ingredients； except the potatoes； but in different proportions； was sufficiently nutritive； and very palatable； in which only about FOUR OUNCES AND THREE QUARTERS of solid Food entered into the composition of a portion weighing twenty ounces。
But this will not appear incredible to those who know； that one single spoonful of salope； weighing less than one quarter of an ounce； put into a pint of boiling water； forms the thickest and most nourishing soup that can be taken； and that the quantity of solid matter which enters into the composition of another very nutritive Food； hartshorn jelly； is not much more considerable。
The barley in my soup； seems to act much the same part as the salope in this famous restorative； and no substitute that I could ever find for it； among all the variety of corn and pulse of the growth of Europe； ever produced half the effect； that is to say； half the nourishment at the same expence。 Barley may therefore be considered as the rice of Great Britain。
It requires； it is true； a great deal of boiling； but when it is properly managed； it thickens a vast quantity of water； and； as I suppose； PREPARES IT FOR DECOMPOSITION。 It also gives the soup into which it enters as an ingredient； a degree of richness which nothing else can give。 It has little or no taste in itself； but when mixed with other ingredients which are savoury； it renders them peculiarly grateful to the palate＇2＇。
It is a maxim； as ancient； I believe； as the time of Hippocrates； that 〃whatever pleases the palate nourishes；〃 and I have often had reason to think it perfectly just。 Could it be clearly ascertained and demonstrated； it would tend to place COOKERY in a much more respectable situation among the arts than it now holds。
That the manner in which Food is prepared is a matter of real importance； and that the water used in that process acts a much more important part than has hitherto been generally imagined； is； I think； quite evident； for； it seems to me to be impossible； upon any other suppositions； to account for the appearances。 If the very small quantity of solid Food which enters into the composition of a portion of some very nutritive soup were to be prepared differently； and taken under some other form； that of bread； for instance； so far from being sufficient to satisfy hunger； and afford a comfortable and nutritive meal； a person would absolutely starve upon such a slender allowance； and no great relief would be derived from drinking CRUDE water to fill up the void in the stomach。
But it is not merely from an observation of the apparent effects of cookery upon those articles which are used as Food for man； that we are led to discover the importance of these culinary processes。 Their utility is proved in a manner equally conclusive and satisfactory； by the efforts which have been produced by employing the same process in preparing Food for brute animals。
It is well known； that boiling the potatoes with which hogs are fed； renders them much more nutritive； and since the introduction of the new system of feeding horned cattle； that of keeping them confined in the stables all the year round； （a method which is now coming fast into common use in many parts of Germany；） great improvements have been made in the art of providing nourishment for those animals； and particularly by preparing their Food； by operations similar to those of cookery； and to these improvements it is most probably owing； that stall feeding has； in that country； been so universally successful。
It has long been a practice in Germany for those who fatten bullocks for the butcher； or feed milch…cows； to give them frequently what is called a drank or drink； which is a kind of pottage； prepared differently in different parts of the country； and in the different seasons； according to the greater facility with which one or other of the articles occasionally employed in the composition of it may be procured； and according to the particular fancies of individuals。 Many feeders make a great secret of the composition of their drinks； and some have； to my knowledge； carried their refinement so far as actually to mix brandy in them； in small quantities； and pretend to have found their advantage in adding this costly ingredient。
The articles most commonly used are； bran； oatmeal； brewers grains； mashed potatoes； mashed turnips； rye meal； and barley meal； with a large proportion of water； sometimes two or three or more of these articles are united in forming a drink； and of whatever ingredients the drink is composed； a large proportion of salt is always added to it。
There is； perhaps； nothing new in this method of feeding cattle with liquid mixtures； but the manner in which these drinks are now prepared in Germany is； I believe； quite new； and shows what I wish to prove； that COOKING RENDERS FOOD REALLY MORE NUTRITIVE。
These drinks were formerly given cold； but it was afterwards discovered that they were more nourishing when given warm； and of late their preparation is； in many places； become a very regular culinary process。 Kitchens have been built； and large boilers provided and fitted up； merely for cooking for the cattle in the stables； and I have been assured by many very intelligent farmers； who have adopted this new mode of feeding； （and have also found by my own experience；） that it is very advantageous indeed； that the drinks are evidently rendered much more nourishing and wholesome by being boiled； and that the expence of fuel； and the trouble attending this process； are amply compensated by the advantages derived from the improvement of the Food。 We even find it advantageous to continue the boiling a considerable time； two or three hours； for instance； as the Food goes on to be still farther improved； the longer the boiling is continued＇3＇。
These facts seem evidently to show； that there is some very important secret with regard to nutrition； which has not been yet properly investigated； and it seems to me to be more probable； that the numbers of inhabitants who may be supported in any country； upon its internal produce； depends almost as much upon the state of THE ART OF COOKERY； as upon that of agriculture。 The Chinese； perhaps； understand both these arts better than any other nation。Savages understand neither of them。
But； if cookery be of so much importance； it certainly deserves to be studied with the greatest care； and it ought particularly to be attended to in times of general alarm on account of a scarcity of provisions； for the relief which may in such cases be derived from it； is immediate and effectual； while all other resources are distant and uncertain。
I am aware of the difficulties which always attend the introduction of measures calculated to produce and remarkable change in the customs and habits of mankind； and there is perhaps no change more difficult to effect； than that which would be necessary in order to make any considerable saving in the consumption of those articles commonly used as Food； but still； I am of opinion； that such a change might； with proper management； be brought about。
There was a time； no doubt； when an aversion to potatoes was as general； and as strong； in Great Britain； and even in Ireland； as it is now in some parts of Bavaria； but this prejudice has been got over； and I am persuaded； that any national prejudice； however deeply rooted； may be overcome； provide
