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ferent¡£¡¡And¡¡you'll¡¡find¡¡marked¡¡differences¡¡even¡¡in¡¡the¡¡Renaissance¡¡art¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Italian¡¡cities£»¡¡such¡¡as¡¡Rome¡¡and¡¡Florence¡¡and¡¡Venice¡£¡¡But¡¡the¡¡Renaissance¡¡showed¡¡that¡¡no¡¡matter¡¡how¡¡far¡¡apart¡¡the¡¡people¡¡of¡¡Europe¡¡might¡¡have¡¡been¡¡they¡¡were¡¡all¡¡stirred¡¡by¡¡a¡¡great¡¡intellectual¡¡and¡¡spiritual¡¡movement¡£¡¡It¡¡was¡¡like¡¡a¡¡vast¡¡moral¡¡earthquake¡£¡¡It¡¡meant¡¡the¡¡rediscovery¡¡and¡¡the¡¡joyous¡¡recognition¡¡of¡¡the¡¡relation¡¡of¡¡the¡¡past¡¡to¡¡the¡¡present¡¡and¡¡the¡¡meaning¡¡of¡¡the¡¡relation¡¡for¡¡mankind¡£¡¡It¡¡led¡¡to¡¡a¡¡new¡¡kind¡¡of¡¡self¡­emancipation¡¡and¡¡individualism¡£¡¡It¡¡created¡¡art¡­forms¡¡that¡¡have¡¡stamped¡¡themselves¡¡on¡¡the¡¡work¡¡all¡¡over¡¡these¡¡grounds¡£¡¡In¡¡a¡¡sense¡¡it¡¡was¡¡a¡¡declaration¡¡of¡¡artistic¡¡independence¡£¡¨

¡¨Is¡¡there¡¡really¡¡such¡¡a¡¡thing¡¡as¡¡independence¡¡in¡¡art£¿¡¨¡¡I¡¡ventured¡¡to¡¡ask¡£

The¡¡architect¡¡began¡¡to¡¡smile¡£¡¡¡¨I'm¡¡afraid¡¡there¡¡isn't¡¡much¡¡independence¡£¡¡If¡¡there¡¡were¡¡this¡¡Exposition¡¡would¡¡not¡¡be¡¡quite¡¡so¡¡intimately¡¡related¡¡to¡¡Europe¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Orient¡£¡¡But¡¡wait¡¡till¡¡we¡¡get¡¡into¡¡Mullgardt's¡¡Court¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Ages¡£¡¡Then¡¡you'll¡¡find¡¡an¡¡answer¡¡to¡¡your¡¡question¡£¡¨

At¡¡this¡¡palace¡¡the¡¡architect¡¡found¡¡much¡¡to¡¡speculate¡¡on¡£¡¡¡¨Here¡¡is¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡few¡¡buildings¡¡in¡¡the¡¡whole¡¡Exposition¡¡done¡¡in¡¡what¡¡might¡¡be¡¡called¡¡the¡¡conventional¡¡exposition¡¡spirit¡£¡¡I¡¡like¡¡it¡¡immensely¡¡as¡¡an¡¡exposition¡¡building£»¡¡but¡¡I¡¡should¡¡hate¡¡it¡¡as¡¡a¡¡public¡¡building¡¡that¡¡I¡¡had¡¡to¡¡see¡¡every¡¡day¡£¡¡It's¡¡too¡¡fantastic¡£¡¡In¡¡this¡¡place¡¡it¡¡serves¡¡its¡¡purpose¡£¡¡But¡¡it¡¡might¡¡fit¡¡into¡¡a¡¡setting¡¡like¡¡the¡¡Golden¡¡Gate¡¡Park£»¡¡where¡¡it¡¡would¡¡be¡¡close¡¡to¡¡nature¡£¡¡Now¡¡this¡¡Exposition¡¡is¡¡very¡¡different¡¡from¡¡most¡¡of¡¡the¡¡enterprises¡¡of¡¡the¡¡kind¡¡that¡¡have¡¡taken¡¡place¡¡in¡¡Europe¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡probably¡¡the¡¡most¡¡serious¡¡exposition¡¡ever¡¡known£»¡¡with¡¡the¡¡possible¡¡exception¡¡of¡¡the¡¡one¡¡in¡¡Chicago¡£¡¡If¡¡it¡¡were¡¡in¡¡a¡¡great¡¡European¡¡capital£»¡¡for¡¡example£»¡¡it¡¡would¡¡mainly¡¡express¡¡the¡¡spirit¡¡of¡¡gaiety¡£¡¡But¡¡the¡¡builders¡¡here£»¡¡though¡¡they¡¡have¡¡been¡¡gay¡¡in¡¡their¡¡use¡¡of¡¡color£»¡¡have¡¡been¡¡tremendously¡¡serious¡¡in¡¡purpose¡£¡¡They¡¡have¡¡worked¡¡largely¡¡for¡¡the¡¡sake¡¡of¡¡education¡£¡¨

The¡¡use¡¡of¡¡green¡¡on¡¡the¡¡building¡¡was¡¡unquestionably¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡most¡¡successful¡¡features¡¡of¡¡the¡¡coloring£»¡¡particularly¡¡when¡¡it¡¡suggested£»¡¡as¡¡it¡¡so¡¡often¡¡did£»¡¡old¡¡copper¡£¡¡¡¨To¡¡me¡¡the¡¡deeper¡¡green¡¡that¡¡Guerin¡¡uses¡¡is¡¡the¡¡more¡¡charming¡¡shade£»¡¡far¡¡more¡¡charming£»¡¡for¡¡instance£»¡¡than¡¡the¡¡light¡¡green¡¡applied¡¡to¡¡Festival¡¡Hall¡£¡¡And¡¡the¡¡suggestion¡¡of¡¡green¡¡in¡¡the¡¡dome¡¡is¡¡altogether¡¡delightful¡£¡¡But¡¡it's¡¡a¡¡pity¡¡they¡¡didn't¡¡use¡¡another¡¡kind¡¡of¡¡glass¡£¡¡When¡¡people¡¡criticise¡¡Ryan¡¡for¡¡not¡¡doing¡¡more¡¡with¡¡his¡¡lighting¡¡effects¡­in¡¡this¡¡dome¡¡they¡¡evidently¡¡don't¡¡know¡¡that¡¡a¡¡mistake¡¡was¡¡made¡¡when¡¡the¡¡glass¡¡was¡¡sent¡¡and¡¡Ryan¡¡could¡¡do¡¡very¡¡little¡¡with¡¡it¡£¡¡In¡¡order¡¡to¡¡carry¡¡out¡¡his¡¡original¡¡plans¡¡Ryan¡¡would¡¡have¡¡to¡¡apply¡¡a¡¡coat¡¡of¡¡varnish¡¡to¡¡the¡¡interior¡¡of¡¡the¡¡dome£»¡¡a¡¡rather¡¡expensive¡¡process¡£¡¡However£»¡¡it¡¡may¡¡be¡¡done¡¡later¡£¡¨



Returning¡¡to¡¡the¡¡South¡¡Gardens



¡¡From¡¡where¡¡we¡¡stood¡¡we¡¡could¡¡get¡¡a¡¡good¡¡view¡¡of¡¡those¡¡green¡¡columns¡¡in¡¡the¡¡Tower¡¡of¡¡Jewels£»¡¡occasionally¡¡criticised¡¡as¡¡being¡¡too¡¡atmospheric¡¡to¡¡give¡¡the¡¡sense¡¡of¡¡support¡£¡¡¡¨Those¡¡columns¡¡were¡¡colored¡¡by¡¡Guerin¡¡to¡¡get¡¡an¡¡effect¡¡of¡¡contrast¡£¡¡That¡¡shade¡¡was¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡first¡¡of¡¡the¡¡shades¡¡he¡¡experimented¡¡with¡£¡¡He¡¡tried¡¡it¡¡out¡¡on¡¡the¡¡sashes¡¡in¡¡Machinery¡¡Hall¡£¡¡The¡¡French¡¡landscape¡¡painters¡¡used¡¡it¡¡a¡¡good¡¡deal¡¡in¡¡outdoor¡¡scenes£»¡¡on¡¡trellises£»¡¡for¡¡example¡£¡¡It¡¡made¡¡a¡¡pleasing¡¡effect¡¡against¡¡the¡¡deeper¡¡tones¡¡of¡¡the¡¡grass¡¡and¡¡foliage¡£¡¡The¡¡notion¡¡that¡¡it¡¡isn't¡¡suited¡¡to¡¡columns¡¡seems¡¡to¡¡me¡¡unwarranted¡£¡¡As¡¡a¡¡matter¡¡of¡¡fact£»¡¡there¡¡are¡¡several¡¡kinds¡¡of¡¡green¡¡stone¡¡that¡¡have¡¡often¡¡been¡¡successfully¡¡used¡¡for¡¡columns¡¡in¡¡architecture£»¡¡like¡¡malachite¡¡and¡¡Connemara¡¡marble¡£¡¡The¡¡Bank¡¡of¡¡Montreal¡¡has¡¡some¡¡magnificent¡¡Connemara¡¡columns¡£¡¡Of¡¡course£»¡¡the¡¡use¡¡up¡¡there¡¡is¡¡theatrical£»¡¡exactly¡¡as¡¡Guerin¡¡intended¡¡it¡¡to¡¡be¡£¡¡People¡¡seem¡¡to¡¡forget¡¡that¡¡Guerin¡¡got¡¡his¡¡earlier¡¡training¡¡as¡¡a¡¡scene¡¡painter¡£¡¡He¡¡was¡¡recognized¡¡as¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡greatest¡¡scene¡¡painters¡¡of¡¡his¡¡time¡£¡¡He¡¡deliberately¡¡undertook¡¡to¡¡make¡¡this¡¡Exposition¡¡a¡¡great¡¡spectacle£»¡¡and¡¡he¡¡ought¡¡to¡¡be¡¡judged¡¡according¡¡to¡¡what¡¡he¡¡tried¡¡to¡¡do¡£¡¡It¡¡seems¡¡to¡¡me¡¡that¡¡his¡¡success¡¡was¡¡astonishing¡£¡¡He¡¡created¡¡a¡¡picture¡¡that¡¡was¡¡spectacular¡¡without¡¡being¡¡garish¡¡or¡¡cheap¡¡and¡¡that¡¡harmonized¡¡with¡¡the¡¡dignity¡¡and¡¡the¡¡splendor¡¡of¡¡the¡¡architecture¡£¡¡One¡¡explanation¡¡of¡¡his¡¡success¡¡lies¡¡in¡¡his¡¡being¡¡so¡¡fond¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Orient£»¡¡where¡¡the¡¡architects¡¡have¡¡worked¡¡in¡¡color¡¡as¡¡far¡¡back¡¡as¡¡we¡¡can¡¡go¡£¡¡Every¡¡chance¡¡he¡¡makes¡¡a¡¡trip¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Orient¡¡and¡¡he¡¡comes¡¡back¡¡with¡¡a¡¡lot¡¡of¡¡Oriental¡¡canvases¡¡that¡¡he¡¡has¡¡painted¡¡there¡£¡¡Only¡¡a¡¡lover¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Orient¡¡would¡¡have¡¡dared¡¡to¡¡put¡¡that¡¡orange¡¡color¡¡on¡¡the¡¡domes¡£¡¡See¡¡what¡¡a¡¡velvety¡¡look¡¡he¡¡got£»¡¡almost¡¡wax¡­like¡£¡¡He¡¡was¡¡careful¡¡not¡¡to¡¡apply£»¡¡in¡¡most¡¡instances£»¡¡more¡¡than¡¡one¡¡coat¡¡of¡¡paint¡£¡¡He¡¡wanted¡¡it¡¡to¡¡sink¡¡in¡¡and¡¡to¡¡become¡¡weathered¡£¡¡He¡¡knew¡¡that¡¡nature¡¡was¡¡the¡¡greatest¡¡of¡¡all¡¡artists£»¡¡always¡¡trying¡¡to¡¡remove¡¡the¡¡shiny¡¡appearance¡¡of¡¡newness¡¡and¡¡to¡¡give¡¡seasoning¡£¡¨

As¡¡we¡¡looked¡¡up¡¡toward¡¡the¡¡center¡¡of¡¡the¡¡South¡¡Garden¡¡the¡¡white¡¡globes¡¡on¡¡the¡¡French¡¡lamp¡¡posts¡¡caught¡¡the¡¡architect's¡¡eye¡£¡¡¡¨Don't¡¡you¡¡remember¡¡how¡¡cheap¡¡they¡¡looked¡¡on¡¡the¡¡first¡¡days£¿¡¨¡¡he¡¡said¡£¡¡¡¨The¡¡trouble¡¡was¡¡that¡¡they¡¡were¡¡too¡¡white¡£¡¡They¡¡seemed¡¡cold¡¡and¡¡raw¡£¡¡So¡¡they¡¡were¡¡sprayed¡¡with¡¡a¡¡liquid¡¡celluloid¡¡to¡¡soften¡¡them¡¡into¡¡their¡¡present¡¡ivory¡¡hue¡£¡¡The¡¡change¡¡shows¡¡how¡¡important¡¡detail¡¡is£»¡¡and¡¡how¡¡carefully¡¡Guerin's¡¡department¡¡has¡¡worked¡£¡¡While¡¡the¡¡construction¡¡was¡¡going¡¡on¡¡there¡¡was¡¡one¡¡remark¡¡that¡¡often¡¡used¡¡to¡¡be¡¡heard£»¡¡'It¡¡will¡¡never¡¡be¡¡noticed£»'¡¡and¡¡a¡¡most¡¡foolish¡¡remark¡¡it¡¡was¡£¡¡It¡¡showed¡¡that¡¡the¡¡people¡¡who¡¡made¡¡it¡¡were¡¡lacking¡¡in¡¡imagination¡£¡¡Millions¡¡of¡¡eyes¡¡have¡¡been¡¡watching¡¡the¡¡details¡¡of¡¡this¡¡Exposition¡¡and¡¡very¡¡little¡¡has¡¡escaped¡¡notice¡£¡¨

A¡¡great¡¡crowd¡¡was¡¡pouring¡¡out¡¡of¡¡the¡¡afternoon¡¡concert¡¡in¡¡Festival¡¡Hall¡£¡¡The¡¡architect£»¡¡as¡¡he¡¡looked¡¡on£»¡¡remarked£º¡¡¡¨It's¡¡like¡¡being¡¡in¡¡Paris£»¡¡isn't¡¡it£¿¡¡Or£»¡¡perhaps£»¡¡it's¡¡more¡¡like¡¡being¡¡in¡¡a¡¡lovely¡¡old¡¡French¡¡provincial¡¡city£»¡¡where¡¡the¡¡theater¡¡is¡¡the¡¡chief¡¡architectural¡¡monument¡£¡¡It's¡¡hard¡¡for¡¡me¡¡to¡¡understand¡¡why¡¡the¡¡French¡¡have¡¡encouraged¡¡that¡¡kind¡¡of¡¡architecture¡¡for¡¡their¡¡theaters¡¡and¡¡opera¡¡houses¡£¡¡It¡¡seems¡¡so¡¡unrelated¡¡to¡¡sound£»¡¡which¡¡ought¡¡to¡¡give¡¡the¡¡clue¡¡to¡¡the¡¡building¡£¡¡The¡¡use¡¡of¡¡the¡¡word¡¡festival¡¡here¡¡is¡¡a¡¡little¡¡old¡­fashioned¡¡and¡¡misleading¡£¡¡It¡¡doesn't¡¡mean¡¡what¡¡we¡¡usually¡¡consider¡¡festivity¡£¡¡It¡¡is¡¡essentially¡¡a¡¡concert¡¡hall£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡architecture¡¡ought¡¡to¡¡suggest¡¡concentration¡¡of¡¡sound¡¡by¡¡being¡¡built¡¡in¡¡a¡¡way¡¡that¡¡shall¡¡make¡¡such¡¡concentration¡¡inevitable¡£¡¡But¡¡this¡¡kind¡¡of¡¡building¡¡is¡¡obviously¡¡related¡¡to¡¡dissipation¡¡of¡¡sound¡£¡¡No¡¡wonder¡¡the¡¡acoustics¡¡turned¡¡out¡¡bad¡¡and¡¡the¡¡interior¡¡had¡¡to¡¡be¡¡remodeled¡£¡¨



XII

The¡¡Half¡¡Courts



In¡¡front¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Court¡¡of¡¡Palms¡¡we¡¡stopped¡¡to¡¡admire¡¡James¡¡Earl¡¡Fraser's¡¡¡¨End¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Trail£»¡¨¡¡the¡¡most¡¡popular¡¡group¡¡of¡¡sculpture¡¡in¡¡the¡¡Exposition¡£¡¡¡¨It¡¡deserves¡¡all¡¡its¡¡popularity£»¡¡doesn't¡¡it£¿¡¡It's¡¡finely¡¡imagined¡¡and¡¡splendidly¡¡worked¡¡out¡£¡¡The¡¡pony¡¡is¡¡excellent¡¡in¡¡its¡¡modeling¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Indian¡¡is¡¡wonderfully¡¡life¡­like¡£¡¨

At¡¡our¡¡side¡¡a¡¡man¡¡and¡¡a¡¡woman¡¡were¡¡standing£»¡¡the¡¡man¡¡more¡¡than¡¡six¡¡feet¡¡tall£»¡¡with¡¡broad¡¡shoulders¡¡and¡¡a¡¡face¡¡that¡¡had¡¡evidently¡¡seen¡¡a¡¡good¡¡deal¡¡of¡¡weather¡£¡¡¡¨I've¡¡known¡¡fellers¡¡just¡¡like¡¡that¡¡Indian£»¡¨¡¡we¡¡heard¡¡him¡¡say£»¡¡¡¨up¡¡in¡¡Minnesota¡£¡¡He¡¡might¡¡be¡¡a¡¡Blackfoot¡¡after¡¡a¡¡couple¡¡of¡¡days'¡¡tusselling¡¡with¡¡the¡¡wind¡¡and¡¡the¡¡rain¡¡in¡¡the¡¡mountains¡£¡¡I've¡¡seen¡¡'em¡¡come¡¡into¡¡town¡¡all¡¡beat¡¡out¡£¡¡The¡¡man¡¡that¡¡made¡¡that¡¡statue¡¡knew¡¡his¡¡business¡£¡¡An'¡¡I¡¡guess¡¡he¡¡knew¡¡what¡¡he¡¡was¡¡doing¡¡when¡¡he¡¡called¡¡it¡¡'The¡¡End¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Trail¡£¡¨'

When¡¡the¡¡visitor¡¡had¡¡passed£»¡¡the¡¡architect¡¡said£º¡¡¡¨The¡¡symbolism¡¡gets¡¡them¡¡all£»¡¡doesn't¡¡it£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡realism£»¡¡too£¿¡¡But¡¡Fraser¡¡couldn't¡¡have¡¡expressed¡¡so¡¡much¡¡if¡¡he¡¡hadn't¡¡put¡¡a¡¡lot¡¡of¡¡heart¡¡into¡¡his¡¡'Work¡£¡¡He¡¡really¡¡felt¡¡all¡¡that¡¡the¡¡Indian¡¡represented£»¡¡as¡¡a¡¡human¡¡being¡¡and¡¡as¡¡a¡¡representative¡¡of¡¡a¡¡dying¡¡race¡£¡¨

¡¨The¡¡Court¡¡of¡¡Palms¡¨¡¡captured¡¡us¡¡both£»¡¡by¡¡its¡¡shape£»¡¡by¡¡the¡¡splendor¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Ionic¡¡columns£»¡¡by¡¡the¡¡loveliness¡¡of¡¡its¡¡detail£»¡¡by¡¡its¡¡coloring¡¡and¡¡by¡¡that¡¡charm¡¡of¡¡its¡¡sunken¡¡garden¡£¡¡¡¨You¡¡can¡¡feel¡¡here¡¡the¡¡mind¡¡that¡¡developed¡¡those¡¡four¡¡Italian¡¡towers¡£¡¡It¡¡shows¡¡the¡¡same¡¡balanced¡¡judgment£»¡¡and¡¡skill¡¡and¡¡taste¡£¡¡The¡¡two¡¡towers¡¡here£»¡¡though¡¡they¡¡stand¡¡at¡¡either¡¡end¡¡of¡¡the¡¡court£»¡¡and¡¡make¡¡a¡¡beautiful¡¡ornamentation£»¡¡are¡¡really¡¡a¡¡part¡¡of¡¡the¡¡wall¡£¡¡They¡¡help¡¡to¡¡give¡¡it¡¡dignity¡¡and¡¡variety¡£¡¡And¡¡how¡¡artistically¡¡the¡¡palms¡¡¡¡have¡¡been¡¡used¡¡here¡£¡¡They¡¡can¡¡be¡¡among¡¡the¡¡least¡¡graceful¡¡of¡¡plants£»¡¡but¡¡here¡¡they¡¡are¡¡really¡¡decorative¡£¡¡And¡¡those¡¡laurel¡¡trees¡¡at¡¡the¡¡side¡¡of¡¡the¡¡main¡¡doorway¡¡make¡¡fine¡¡ornamental¡¡notes¡£¡¡The¡¡sculptured¡¡vases£»¡¡too£»¡¡are¡¡wonderfully¡¡graceful¡£¡¨

Above¡¡the¡¡doorways¡¡we¡¡found¡¡the¡¡three¡¡murals¡¡that¡¡gave¡¡further¡¡distinction¡¡to¡¡this¡¡court¡¡and¡¡enriched¡¡the¡¡coloring¡£¡¡In¡¡¡¨Fruits¡¡and¡¡Flowers¡¨¡¡Childe¡¡Hassam¡¡had¡¡done¡¡one¡¡of¡¡his¡¡purely¡¡decorative¡¡pictures£»¡¡without¡¡a¡¡story£»¡¡contenting¡¡himself¡¡with¡¡graceful¡¡pictures¡¡and¡¡delicate¡¡color¡¡scheme¡£¡¡Charles¡¡Holloway¡¡made¡¡¡¨The¡¡Pursuit¡¡of¡¡Pleasure¡¨¡¡frankly¡¡allegorical£»¡¡the¡¡floating¡¡figure¡¡of¡¡the¡¡woman¡¡pursued¡¡by¡¡admiring¡¡youths¡£¡¡Over¡¡the¡¡main¡¡doorway¡¡Arthur¡¡Mathews¡¡had¡¡also¡¡painted¡¡an¡¡allegory£»¡¡¡¨Victorious¡¡Spirit£»¡¨¡¡the¡¡Angel¡¡of¡¡Light£»¡¡with¡¡wide¡­spread¡¡wings¡¡of¡¡gold£»¡¡standing¡¡in¡¡the¡¡center¡¡and¡¡keeping¡¡back¡¡the¡¡spirit¡¡of¡¡materialism£»¡¡represented¡¡by¡¡a¡¡fiery¡¡horse¡¡driven¡¡by¡¡his¡¡rider¡¡with¡¡brutal¡¡energy¡£¡¡¡¨Observe¡¡how¡¡successfully¡¡Mathews¡¡has¡¡chosen¡¡his¡¡colors¡£¡¡These¡¡deep¡¡purples¡¡help¡¡to¡¡bring¡¡out¡¡the¡¡splendor¡¡of¡¡those

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