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The¡¡City¡¡of¡¡Domes


A¡¡Walk¡¡with¡¡an¡¡Architect¡¡About¡¡the¡¡Courts¡¡and¡¡Palaces¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Panama
Pacific¡¡International¡¡ExposItion¡¡with¡¡a¡¡Discussion¡¡of¡¡Its¡¡Architecture¡¡¡­
Its¡¡Sculpture¡¡¡­¡¡Its¡¡Mural¡¡Decorations¡¡Its¡¡Coloring¡¡¡­¡¡And¡¡Its¡¡Lighting¡¡¡­
Preceded¡¡by¡¡a¡¡History¡¡of¡¡Its¡¡Growth




by¡¡John¡¡D¡£¡¡Barry




To¡¡the¡¡architects£»¡¡the¡¡artists¡¡and¡¡the¡¡artisans¡¡and¡¡to¡¡the¡¡men¡¡of
affairs¡¡who¡¡sustained¡¡them¡¡in¡¡the¡¡cooperative¡¡work¡¡that¡¡created¡¡an
exposition¡¡of¡¡surpassing¡¡beauty£»¡¡unique¡¡among¡¡the¡¡expositions¡¡of¡¡the
world¡£




Contents



Chapter

¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Preface
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Introduction
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡I¡£¡¡The¡¡View¡¡from¡¡the¡¡Hill
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡II¡£¡¡The¡¡Approach
¡¡¡¡¡¡III¡£¡¡In¡¡the¡¡South¡¡Gardens
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡IV¡£¡¡Under¡¡the¡¡Tower¡¡of¡¡Jewels
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡V¡£¡¡The¡¡Court¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Universe
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡VI¡£¡¡On¡¡the¡¡Marina
¡¡¡¡¡¡VII¡£¡¡Toward¡¡the¡¡Court¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Four¡¡Seasons
¡¡¡¡VIII¡£¡¡The¡¡Court¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Four¡¡Seasons
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡IX¡£¡¡The¡¡Palace¡¡of¡¡Fine¡¡Arts¡¡from¡¡across¡¡the¡¡Lagoon
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡X¡£¡¡The¡¡Palace¡¡of¡¡Fine¡¡Arts¡¡at¡¡Close¡¡Range
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡XI¡£¡¡At¡¡the¡¡Palace¡¡of¡¡Horticulture
¡¡¡¡¡¡XII¡£¡¡The¡¡Half¡¡Courts
¡¡¡¡XIII¡£¡¡Near¡¡Festival¡¡Hall
¡¡¡¡¡¡XIV¡£¡¡The¡¡Palace¡¡of¡¡Machinery
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡XV¡£¡¡The¡¡Court¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Ages
¡¡¡¡¡¡XVI¡£¡¡The¡¡Brangwyns
¡¡¡¡XVII¡£¡¡Watching¡¡the¡¡Lights¡¡Change
XVIII¡£¡¡The¡¡Illuminating¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Reflections
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Features¡¡that¡¡Ought¡¡to¡¡he¡¡Noted¡¡by¡¡Day
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Features¡¡that¡¡Ought¡¡to¡¡be¡¡Noted¡¡by¡¡Night
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Index








Preface



In¡¡the¡¡main£»¡¡this¡¡volume¡¡consists¡¡of¡¡articles¡¡originally¡¡published¡¡in¡¡the¡¡San¡¡Francisco¡¡BULLETIN¡£¡¡It¡¡includes¡¡material¡¡gathered¡¡from¡¡many¡¡visits¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Exposition¡¡grounds¡¡and¡¡from¡¡many¡¡talks¡¡with¡¡men¡¡concerned¡¡in¡¡the¡¡organization¡¡and¡¡the¡¡building¡¡and¡¡ornamentation¡£¡¡The¡¡brief¡¡history¡¡that¡¡forms¡¡the¡¡Introduction¡¡gives¡¡an¡¡account¡¡of¡¡the¡¡development¡£¡¡For¡¡me£»¡¡as£»¡¡I¡¡presume£»¡¡for¡¡most¡¡people£»¡¡the¡¡thing¡¡done£»¡¡no¡¡matter¡¡how¡¡interesting¡¡it¡¡may¡¡he£»¡¡is¡¡never¡¡so¡¡interesting¡¡as¡¡the¡¡doing¡¡of¡¡the¡¡thing£»¡¡the¡¡play¡¡of¡¡the¡¡forces¡¡behind¡£¡¡Even¡¡in¡¡the¡¡talk¡¡with¡¡the¡¡architect£»¡¡where¡¡the¡¡finished¡¡Exposition¡¡itself¡¡is¡¡discussed£»¡¡I¡¡have¡¡tried¡¡to¡¡keep¡¡in¡¡mind¡¡those¡¡forces£»¡¡and¡¡wherever¡¡I¡¡could¡¡to¡¡indicate¡¡their¡¡play¡£

The¡¡dialogue¡¡form¡¡I¡¡have¡¡used¡¡for¡¡several¡¡reasons£º¡¡it¡¡is¡¡easy¡¡to¡¡follow£»¡¡it¡¡gives¡¡scope¡¡for¡¡more¡¡than¡¡one¡¡kind¡¡of¡¡opinion£»¡¡and¡¡it¡¡deals¡¡with¡¡the¡¡subject¡¡as¡¡we¡¡all¡¡do£»¡¡when¡¡with¡¡one¡¡friend¡¡or¡¡more¡¡than¡¡one¡¡we¡¡visit¡¡the¡¡Exposition¡¡grounds¡£¡¡It¡¡has¡¡been¡¡my¡¡good¡¡fortune¡¡to¡¡he¡¡able¡¡to¡¡see¡¡the¡¡Exposition¡¡from¡¡points¡¡of¡¡view¡¡very¡¡different¡¡from¡¡my¡¡own¡¡and¡¡much¡¡better¡¡informed¡¡and¡¡equipped¡£¡¡I¡¡am¡¡glad¡¡to¡¡pass¡¡on¡¡the¡¡advantage¡£

The¡¡Exposition¡¡is¡¡generally¡¡acknowledged¡¡to¡¡be¡¡an¡¡achievement¡¡unprecedented¡£¡¡Merely¡¡to¡¡write¡¡about¡¡it¡¡and¡¡to¡¡try¡¡to¡¡convey¡¡a¡¡sense¡¡of¡¡its¡¡quality¡¡is¡¡a¡¡privilege¡£¡¡I¡¡have¡¡valued¡¡it¡¡all¡¡the¡¡more¡¡because¡¡I¡¡know¡¡that¡¡many¡¡people£»¡¡not¡¡trained¡¡in¡¡matters¡¡of¡¡architecture¡¡and¡¡art£»¡¡are¡¡striving¡¡to¡¡relate¡¡themselves¡¡to¡¡the¡¡expression¡¡here£»¡¡to¡¡understand¡¡it¡¡and¡¡to¡¡feel¡¡it¡¡in¡¡all¡¡its¡¡hearings¡£¡¡If£»¡¡at¡¡times£»¡¡directly¡¡or¡¡in¡¡indirectly£»¡¡I¡¡have¡¡been¡¡critical£»¡¡the¡¡reason¡¡is¡¡that¡¡I¡¡wished£»¡¡in¡¡so¡¡far¡¡as¡¡I¡¡could£»¡¡to¡¡persuade¡¡visitors¡¡not¡¡to¡¡swallow¡¡the¡¡Exposition¡¡whole£»¡¡but¡¡to¡¡think¡¡about¡¡it¡¡for¡¡themselves£»¡¡and¡¡to¡¡bear¡¡in¡¡mind¡¡that¡¡the¡¡men¡¡behind¡¡it£»¡¡those¡¡of¡¡today¡¡and¡¡those¡¡of¡¡days¡¡remote£»¡¡were¡¡human¡¡beings¡¡exactly¡¡like¡¡themselves£»¡¡and¡¡to¡¡draw¡¡from¡¡it¡¡all¡¡they¡¡could¡¡in¡¡the¡¡way¡¡of¡¡genuine¡¡benefit¡£

Though¡¡the¡¡volume¡¡is¡¡mainly¡¡devoted¡¡to¡¡the¡¡artistic¡¡features¡¡associated¡¡with¡¡the¡¡courts¡¡and¡¡the¡¡main¡¡palaces£»¡¡I¡¡have¡¡included£»¡¡among¡¡the¡¡illustrations£»¡¡pictures¡¡of¡¡the¡¡California¡¡Building£»¡¡both¡¡because¡¡of¡¡its¡¡close¡¡relation¡¡to¡¡California¡¡and¡¡because¡¡it¡¡is¡¡in¡¡itself¡¡magnificent£»¡¡and¡¡of¡¡two¡¡notable¡¡art¡¡features£»¡¡the¡¡mural¡¡painting¡¡by¡¡Bianca¡¡in¡¡the¡¡Italian¡¡Building£»¡¡and¡¡¡¨The¡¡Thinker¡¨£»¡¡by¡¡Rodin£»¡¡in¡¡the¡¡court¡¡of¡¡the¡¡French¡¡Pavilion¡£





Introduction



The¡¡First¡¡Steps



In¡¡January£»¡¡1904£»¡¡R¡£¡¡B¡£¡¡Hale¡¡of¡¡San¡¡Francisco¡¡wrote¡¡to¡¡his¡¡fellow¡­directors¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Merchants'¡¡Association£»¡¡that£»¡¡in¡¡1915£»¡¡San¡¡Francisco¡¡ought¡¡to¡¡hold¡¡an¡¡exposition¡¡to¡¡celebrate¡¡the¡¡opening¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Panama¡¡Canal¡£¡¡In¡¡the¡¡financing¡¡of¡¡the¡¡St¡£¡¡Louis¡¡Exposition£»¡¡soon¡¡to¡¡begin£»¡¡Mr¡£¡¡Hale¡¡found¡¡a¡¡model¡¡for¡¡his¡¡plan¡£¡¡Five¡¡million¡¡dollars¡¡should¡¡be¡¡raised¡¡by¡¡popular¡¡subscription£»¡¡five¡¡million¡¡dollars¡¡should¡¡be¡¡asked¡¡from¡¡the¡¡State£»¡¡and¡¡five¡¡million¡¡dollars¡¡should¡¡be¡¡provided¡¡by¡¡city¡¡bonds¡£

The¡¡idea¡¡was¡¡promptly¡¡endorsed¡¡by¡¡the¡¡business¡¡associations¡£

¡¡From¡¡their¡¡chairmen¡¡was¡¡formed¡¡a¡¡board¡¡of¡¡governors¡£¡¡It¡¡was¡¡decided¡¡that¡¡the¡¡exposition¡¡should¡¡be¡¡held£»¡¡and¡¡formal¡¡notification¡¡was¡¡given¡¡to¡¡the¡¡world¡¡by¡¡introducing¡¡into¡¡Congress¡¡a¡¡bill¡¡that¡¡provided¡¡for¡¡an¡¡appropriation¡¡of¡¡five¡¡million¡¡dollars¡£¡¡The¡¡bill¡¡was¡¡not¡¡acted¡¡on£»¡¡and¡¡it¡¡was¡¡allowed¡¡to¡¡die¡¡at¡¡the¡¡end¡¡of¡¡the¡¡session¡£

Soon¡¡after¡¡formulating¡¡the¡¡plan¡¡for¡¡the¡¡exposition¡¡Mr¡£¡¡Hale¡¡changed¡¡¡¡the¡¡date¡¡from£»¡¡1915¡¡to¡¡1913£»¡¡to¡¡make¡¡it¡¡coincide¡¡with¡¡the¡¡four¡¡hundredth¡¡anniversary¡¡of¡¡the¡¡discovery¡¡by¡¡Balboa¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Pacific¡£

In¡¡1906¡¡came¡¡the¡¡earthquake¡¡and¡¡fire¡£¡¡The¡¡next¡¡few¡¡years¡¡San¡¡Franciscans¡¡were¡¡busy¡¡clearing¡¡away¡¡the¡¡debris¡¡and¡¡rebuilding¡£¡¡It¡¡was¡¡predicted¡¡that¡¡the¡¡city¡¡might¡¡recover¡¡in¡¡ten¡¡years£»¡¡and¡¡might¡¡not¡¡recover¡¡in¡¡less¡¡than¡¡twenty¡­five¡¡years¡£

Nevertheless£»¡¡in¡¡December£»¡¡1906£»¡¡within¡¡nine¡¡months¡¡of¡¡the¡¡disaster£»¡¡a¡¡meeting¡¡was¡¡held¡¡in¡¡the¡¡shack¡¡that¡¡served¡¡for¡¡the¡¡St¡£¡¡Francis¡¡Hotel£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Pacific¡¡Ocean¡¡Exposition¡¡Company¡¡was¡¡incorporated¡£

In¡¡three¡¡years¡¡¡¡the¡¡city¡¡recovered¡¡sufficiently¡¡to¡¡hold¡¡a¡¡week's¡¡festival£»¡¡the¡¡Portola£»¡¡and¡¡to¡¡make¡¡it¡¡a¡¡success¡£

Two¡¡days¡¡afterward£»¡¡in¡¡October£»¡¡1909£»¡¡Mr¡£¡¡Hale¡¡gave¡¡a¡¡dinner¡¡to¡¡a¡¡small¡¡group¡¡of¡¡business¡¡men£»¡¡and¡¡told¡¡of¡¡what¡¡had¡¡been¡¡done¡¡toward¡¡preparing¡¡for¡¡the¡¡Exposition¡£¡¡They¡¡agreed¡¡to¡¡help¡£

Shortly¡¡afterward¡¡a¡¡meeting¡¡was¡¡held¡¡at¡¡the¡¡Merchants'¡¡Exchange¡£¡¡It¡¡was¡¡decided¡¡that¡¡an¡¡effort¡¡should¡¡at¡¡once¡¡be¡¡made¡¡to¡¡raise¡¡the¡¡money¡¡and¡¡to¡¡rouse¡¡the¡¡people¡¡of¡¡San¡¡Francisco¡¡to¡¡the¡¡importance¡¡of¡¡the¡¡project¡¡of¡¡holding¡¡the¡¡Panama¡­Pacific¡¡International¡¡Exposition¡¡in¡¡San¡¡Francisco¡¡in¡¡1915¡£

As¡¡many¡¡as¡¡twenty¡­five¡¡hundred¡¡letters¡¡were¡¡sent¡¡to¡¡business¡¡men£»¡¡asking¡¡if¡¡they¡¡favored¡¡the¡¡idea¡¡of¡¡holding¡¡an¡¡exposition¡£¡¡Out¡¡of¡¡about¡¡eight¡¡hundred¡¡replies¡¡only¡¡seven¡¡were¡¡opposed¡£¡¡Presently¡¡there¡¡were¡¡signs¡¡of¡¡enthusiasm£»¡¡reflected¡¡in¡¡the¡¡newspapers¡£

A¡¡committee¡¡of¡¡six¡¡representative¡¡business¡¡men¡¡was¡¡appointed¡¡and¡¡the¡¡announcement¡¡was¡¡made¡¡that¡¡the¡¡committee¡¡should¡¡be¡¡glad¡¡to¡¡hear¡¡from¡¡anyone¡¡in¡¡the¡¡city¡¡who¡¡had¡¡suggestions¡¡or¡¡grievances¡£¡¡It¡¡was¡¡determined¡¡that¡¡every¡¡San¡¡Franciscan¡¡should¡¡have¡¡his¡¡day¡¡in¡¡court¡£

Later¡¡the¡¡committee¡¡of¡¡six¡¡appointed¡¡a¡¡foundation¡¡committee¡¡of¡¡two¡¡hundred£»¡¡representing¡¡a¡¡wide¡¡variety¡¡of¡¡interests¡£

The¡¡committee¡¡of¡¡two¡¡hundred¡¡chose¡¡a¡¡committee¡¡of¡¡three¡¡from¡¡outside¡¡their¡¡number¡£

The¡¡committee¡¡of¡¡three¡¡chose¡¡from¡¡among¡¡the¡¡two¡¡hundred¡¡a¡¡directorate¡¡of¡¡thirty¡£¡¡The¡¡thirty¡¡became¡¡the¡¡directorate¡¡of¡¡a¡¡new¡¡corporation£»¡¡made¡¡in¡¡1910£»¡¡the¡¡Panama¡­Pacific¡¡International¡¡Exposition¡¡Company¡£



Financing



The¡¡Panama¡­Pacific¡¡Company¡¡two¡¡local¡¡millionaires£»¡¡W¡£¡¡H¡£¡¡Crocker¡¡and¡¡W¡£¡¡B¡£¡¡Bourn£»¡¡started¡¡financially¡¡with¡¡twenty¡­five¡¡thousand¡¡dollars¡¡each¡£¡¡They¡¡established¡¡the¡¡maximum¡¡individual¡¡subscription¡£¡¡They¡¡also¡¡secured¡¡forty¡¡subscriptions¡¡of¡¡twenty¡­five¡¡thousand¡¡dollars¡¡each¡£¡¡Then¡¡followed¡¡the¡¡call¡¡for¡¡a¡¡mass¡¡meeting¡£¡¡Before¡¡the¡¡meeting¡¡was¡¡held¡¡the¡¡business¡¡men¡¡of¡¡the¡¡city¡¡were¡¡thoroughly¡¡canvassed¡£¡¡The¡¡Southern¡¡Pacific¡¡and¡¡the¡¡Union¡¡Pacific¡¡together¡¡subscribed¡¡two¡¡hundred¡¡and¡¡fifty¡¡thousand¡¡dollars¡£¡¡There¡¡were¡¡many¡¡other¡¡large¡¡subscriptions¡¡from¡¡public¡­service¡¡organizations¡£

On¡¡the¡¡afternoon¡¡of¡¡the¡¡meeting¡¡there¡¡was¡¡a¡¡crowd¡¡in¡¡the¡¡Merchants'¡¡Exchange¡¡Board¡¡Room¡£¡¡The¡¡announcement¡¡of¡¡the¡¡subscriptions¡¡created¡¡enthusiasm¡£¡¡In¡¡two¡¡hours¡¡the¡¡amount¡¡ran¡¡up¡¡to¡¡more¡¡than¡¡four¡¡million¡¡dollars¡£¡¡During¡¡the¡¡next¡¡few¡¡years¡¡they¡¡were¡¡increased¡¡to¡¡about¡¡6£»500£»000¡£

Meanwhile£»¡¡the¡¡State¡¡voted¡¡a¡¡tax¡¡levy¡¡of¡¡five¡¡million¡¡dollars£»¡¡and¡¡San¡¡Francisco¡¡voted¡¡a¡¡bond¡¡and¡¡issue¡¡of¡¡the¡¡same¡¡amount£»¡¡and¡¡by¡¡an¡¡act¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Legislature£»¡¡in¡¡special¡¡session£»¡¡the¡¡counties¡¡were¡¡authorized¡¡to¡¡levy¡¡a¡¡small¡¡tax¡¡for¡¡county¡¡Participation£»¡¡amounting£»¡¡in¡¡estimate£»¡¡to¡¡about¡¡three¡¡million¡¡dollars¡£



Recognition¡¡From¡¡Congress



Next¡¡came¡¡the¡¡task¡¡of¡¡securing¡¡from¡¡Congress¡¡official¡¡recognition¡¡of¡¡San¡¡Francisco¡¡as¡¡the¡¡site¡¡of¡¡the¡¡International¡¡Exposition¡¡in¡¡celebration¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Panama¡¡Canal¡£

Headquarters¡¡were¡¡established¡¡in¡¡Washington¡£¡¡Presently¡¡serious¡¡opposition¡¡developed¡£¡¡Emissaries¡¡went¡¡from¡¡San¡¡Francisco¡¡to¡¡Washington¡¡singly¡¡and¡¡in¡¡delegations¡£¡¡Stress¡¡was¡¡laid¡¡on¡¡San¡¡Francisco's¡¡purpose¡¡not¡¡to¡¡ask¡¡for¡¡an¡¡appropriation¡¡from¡¡the¡¡national¡¡government¡£¡¡There¡¡were¡¡several¡¡cities¡¡in¡¡competition¡¡¡­¡¡Boston£»¡¡Washington£»¡¡Baltimore¡¡and¡¡New¡¡Orleans¡£¡¡New¡¡Orleans¡¡proved¡¡the¡¡most¡¡formidable¡¡rival¡£¡¡It¡¡relied¡¡on¡¡the¡¡strength¡¡of¡¡of¡¡a¡¡united¡¡Democracy¡¡and¡¡of¡¡the¡¡solid¡¡South¡£

In¡¡the¡¡hearings¡¡before¡¡the¡¡Congressional¡¡Committee¡¡it¡¡was¡¡made¡¡plain¡¡that¡¡the¡¡decision¡¡would¡¡go¡¡to¡¡the¡¡city¡¡with¡¡the¡¡best¡¡financial¡¡showing¡£¡¡As¡¡soon¡¡as¡¡the¡¡decision¡¡was¡¡announced¡¡New¡¡Orleans¡¡entered¡¡into¡¡generous¡¡cooperation¡¡with¡¡San¡¡Francisco¡£

The¡¡Exposition¡¡was¡¡on¡¡the¡¡way¡£



Naming¡¡the¡¡President¡£



The¡¡offer¡¡of¡¡the¡¡presidency¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Exposition¡¡Company¡¡was¡¡made¡¡to¡¡a¡¡well¡­known¡¡business¡¡man¡¡of¡¡San¡¡Francisco£»¡¡C¡£¡¡C¡£¡¡Moore¡£¡¡Besides¡¡being¡¡able¡¡and¡¡energetic£»¡¡he¡¡was¡¡agreeable¡¡to¡¡the¡¡factions¡¡created¡¡by¡¡the¡¡graft¡¡prosecution¡¡of¡¡a¡¡half¡¡dozen¡¡years¡¡before¡£¡¡Like¡¡the¡¡board¡¡of¡¡directors

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