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the inhabitants there they have lost above thirty acres of land in

one place。



From hence we go back into the county about four miles; because of

the creeks which lie between; and then turning east again come to

Harwich; on the utmost eastern point of this large country。



Harwich is a town so well known and so perfectly described by many

writers; I need say little of it。  It is strong by situation; and

may be made more so by art。  But it is many years since the

Government of England have had any occasion to fortify towns to the

landward; it is enough that the harbour or road; which is one of

the best and securest in England; is covered at the entrance by a

strong fort and a battery of guns to the seaward; just as at

Tilbury; and which sufficiently defend the mouth of the river。  And

there is a particular felicity in this fortification; viz。; that

though the entrance or opening of the river into the sea is very

wide; especially at high…water; at least two miles; if not three

over; yet the Channel; which is deep; and in which the ships must

keep and come to the harbour; is narrow; and lies only on the side

of the fort; so that all the ships which come in or go out must

come close under the guns of the fort … that is to say; under the

command of their shot。



The fort is on the Suffolk side of the bay or entrance; but stands

so far into the sea upon the point of a sand or shoal; which runs

out toward the Essex side; as it were; laps over the mouth of that

haven like a blind to it; and our surveyors of the country affirm

it to be in the county of Essex。  The making this place; which was

formerly no other than a sand in the sea; solid enough for the

foundation of so good a fortification; has not been done but by

many years' labour; often repairs; and an infinite expense of

money; but it is now so firm that nothing of storms and high tides;

or such things as make the sea dangerous to these kind of works;

can affect it。



The harbour is of a vast extent; for; as two rivers empty

themselves here; viz。; Stour from Manningtree and the Orwell from

Ipswich; the channels of both are large and deep; and safe for all

weathers; so where they join they make a large bay or road able to

receive the biggest ships; and the greatest number that ever the

world saw together; I mean ships of war。  In the old Dutch war

great use has been made of this harbour; and I have known that

there has been one hundred sail of men…of…war and their attendants

and between three and four hundred sail of collier ships all in

this harbour at a time; and yet none of them crowding or riding in

danger of one another。



Harwich is known for being the port where the packet boats; between

England and Holland; go out and come in。  The inhabitants are far

from being famed for good usage to strangers; but; on the contrary;

are blamed for being extravagant in their reckonings in the public…

houses; which has not a little encouraged the setting up of sloops;

which they now call passage boats; to Holland; to go directly from

the River Thames; this; though it may be something the longer

passage; yet as they are said to be more obliging to passengers and

more reasonable in the expense; and; as some say; also; the vessels

are better sea boats; has been the reason why so many passengers do

not go or come by the way of Harwich as formerly were wont to do;

insomuch that the stage coaches between this place and London;

which ordinarily went twice or three times a week; are now entirely

laid down; and the passengers are left to hire coaches on purpose;

take post…horses; or hire horses to Colchester; as they find most

convenient。



The account of a petrifying quality in the earth here; though some

will have it to be in the water of a spring hard by; is very

strange。  They boast that their town is walled and their streets

paved with clay; and yet that one is as strong and the other as

clean as those that are built or paved with stone。  The fact is

indeed true; for there is a sort of clay in the cliff; between the

town and the Beacon Hill adjoining; which; when it falls down into

the sea; where it is beaten with the waves and the weather; turns

gradually into stone。  But the chief reason assigned is from the

water of a certain spring or well; which; rising in the said cliff;

runs down into the sea among those pieces of clay; and petrifies

them as it runs; and the force of the sea often stirring; and

perhaps turning; the lumps of clay; when storms of wind may give

force enough to the water; causes them to harden everywhere alike;

otherwise those which were not quite sunk in the water of the

spring would be petrified but in part。  These stones are gathered

up to pave the streets and build the houses; and are indeed very

hard。  It is also remarkable that some of them taken up before they

are thoroughly petrified will; upon breaking them; appear to be

hard as a stone without and soft as clay in the middle; whereas

others that have lain a due time shall be thorough stone to the

centre; and as exceeding hard within as without。  The same spring

is said to turn wood into iron。  But this I take to be no more or

less than the quality; which; as I mentioned of the shore at the

Naze; is found to be in much of the stone all along this shore;

viz。; of the copperas kind; and it is certain that the copperas

stone (so called) is found in all that cliff; and even where the

water of this spring has run; and I presume that those who call the

hardened pieces of wood; which they take out of this well by the

name of iron; never tried the quality of it with the fire or

hammer; if they had; perhaps they would have given some other

account of it。



On the promontory of land which they call Beacon Hill and which

lies beyond or behind the town towards the sea; there is a

lighthouse to give the ships directions in their sailing by as well

as their coming into the harbour in the night。  I shall take notice

of these again all together when I come to speak of the Society of

Trinity House; as they are called; by whom they are all directed

upon this coast。



This town was erected into a marquisate in honour of the truly

glorious family of Schomberg; the eldest son of Duke Schomberg; who

landed with King William; being styled Marquis of Harwich; but that

family (in England; at least) being extinct the title dies also。



Harwich is a town of hurry and business; not much of gaiety and

pleasure; yet the inhabitants seem warm in their nests; and some of

them are very wealthy。  There are not many (if any) gentlemen or

families of note either in the town or very near it。  They send two

members to Parliament; the present are Sir Peter Parker and

Humphrey Parsons; Esq。



And now being at the extremity of the county of Essex; of which I

have given you some view as to that side next the sea only; I shall

break off this part of my letter by telling you that I will take

the towns which lie more towards the centre of the county; in my

return by the north and west part only; that I may give you a few

hints of some towns which were near me in my route this way; and of

which being so well known there is but little to say。



On the road from London to Colchester; before I came into it at

Witham; lie four good market towns at equal distance from one

another; namely; Romford; noted for two markets; viz。; one for

calves and hogs; the other for corn and other provisions; most; if

not all; bought up for London market。  At the farther end of the

town; in the middle of a stately park; stood Guldy Hall; vulgarly

Giddy Hall; an ancient seat of one Coke; sometime Lord Mayor of

London; but forfeited on some occasion to the Crown。  It is since

pulled down to the ground; and there now stands a noble stately

fabric or mansion house; built upon the spot by Sir John Eyles; a

wealthy merchant of London; and chosen Sub…Governor of the South

Sea Company immediately after the ruin of the former Sub…Governor

and Directors; whose overthrow makes the history of these times

famous。



Brentwood and Ingatestone; and even Chelmsford itself; have very

little to be said of them; but that they are large thoroughfare

towns; full of good inns; and chiefly maintained by the excessive

multitude of carriers and passengers which are constantly passing

this way to London with droves of cattle; provisions; and

manufactures for London。



The last of these towns is indeed the county town; where the county

gaol is kept; and where the assizes are very often held; it stands

on the conflux of two rivers … the Chelmer; whence the town is

called; and the Cann。



At Lees; or Lee's Priory; as some call it; is to be seen an ancient

house in the middle of a beautiful park; formerly the seat of the

late Duke of Manchester; but since the death of the duke it is sold

to the Duchess Dowager of Buckinghamshire; the present Duke of

Manchester retiring to hi

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