tour through the eastern counties of england-第4节
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The product of all this part of the country is corn; as that of the
marshy feeding grounds mentioned above is grass; where their chief
business is breeding of calves; which I need not say are the best
and fattest; and the largest veal in England; if not in the world;
and; as an instance; I ate part of a veal or calf; fed by the late
Sir Josiah Child at Wanstead; the loin of which weighed above
thirty pounds; and the flesh exceeding white and fat。
From hence I went on to Colchester。 The story of Kill…Dane; which
is told of the town of Kelvedon; three miles from Witham; namely;
that this is the place where the massacre of the Danes was begun by
the women; and that therefore it was called Kill…Dane; I say of it;
as we generally say of improbable news; it wants confirmation。 The
true name of the town is Kelvedon; and has been so for many hundred
years。 Neither does Mr。 Camden; or any other writer I meet with
worth naming; insist on this piece of empty tradition。 The town is
commonly called Keldon。
Colchester is an ancient corporation。 The town is large; very
populous; the streets fair and beautiful; and though it may not
said to be finely built; yet there are abundance of very good and
well…built houses in it。 It still mourns in the ruins of a civil
war; during which; or rather after the heat of the war was over; it
suffered a severe siege; which; the garrison making a resolute
defence; was turned into a blockade; in which the garrison and
inhabitants also suffered the utmost extremity of hunger; and were
at last obliged to surrender at discretion; when their two chief
officers; Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle; were shot to
death under the castle wall。 The inhabitants had a tradition that
no grass would grow upon the spot where the blood of those two
gallant gentlemen was spilt; and they showed the place bare of
grass for many years; but whether for this reason I will not
affirm。 The story is now dropped; and the grass; I suppose; grows
there; as in other places。
However; the battered walls; the breaches in the turrets; and the
ruined churches; still remain; except that the church of St。 Mary
(where they had the royal fort) is rebuilt; but the steeple; which
was two…thirds battered down; because the besieged had a large
culverin upon it that did much execution; remains still in that
condition。
There is another church which bears the marks of those times;
namely; on the south side of the town; in the way to the Hythe; of
which more hereafter。
The lines of contravallation; with the forts built by the
besiegers; and which surrounded the whole town; remain very visible
in many places; but the chief of them are demolished。
The River Colne; which passes through this town; compasses it on
the north and east sides; and served in those times for a complete
defence on those sides。 They have three bridges over it; one
called North Bridge; at the north gate; by which the road leads
into Suffolk; one called East Bridge; at the foot of the High
Street; over which lies the road to Harwich; and one at the Hythe;
as above。
The river is navigable within three miles of the town for ships of
large burthen; a little lower it may receive even a royal navy; and
up to that part called the Hythe; close to the houses; it is
navigable for hoys and small barques。 This Hythe is a long street;
passing from west to east; on the south side of the town。 At the
west end of it; there is a small intermission of the buildings; but
not much; and towards the river it is very populous (it may be
called the Wapping of Colchester)。 There is one church in that
part of the town; a large quay by the river; and a good custom…
house。
The town may be said chiefly to subsist by the trade of making
bays; which is known over most of the trading parts of Europe by
the name of Colchester Bays; though indeed all the towns round
carry on the same trade … namely; Kelvedon; Witham; Coggeshall;
Braintree; Bocking; &c。; and the whole county; large as it is; may
be said to be employed; and in part maintained; by the spinning of
wool for the bay trade of Colchester and its adjacent towns。 The
account of the siege; A。D。 1648; with a diary of the most
remarkable passages; are as follows; which I had from so good a
hand as that I have no reason to question its being a true
relation。
A Diary: Or; An Account Of The Siege And Blockade Of Colchester;
A。D。 1648。
On the 4th of June; we were alarmed in the town of Colchester that
the Lord Goring; the Lord Capel; and a body of two thousand of the
loyal party; who had been in arms in Kent; having left a great body
of an army in possession of Rochester Bridge; where they resolved
to fight the Lord Fairfax and the Parliament army; had given the
said General Fairfax the slip; and having passed the Thames at
Greenwich; were come to Stratford; and were advancing this way;
upon which news; Sir Charles Lucas; Sir George Lisle; Colonel Cook;
and several gentlemen of the loyal army; and all that had
commissions from the king; with a gallant appearance of gentlemen
volunteers; drew together from all parts of the country to join
with them。
The 8th; we were further informed that they were advanced to
Chelmsford; to New Hall House; and to Witham; and the 9th some of
the horse arrived in the town; taking possession of the gates; and
having engineers with them; told us that General Goring had
resolved to make this town his headquarters; and would cause it to
be well fortified。 They also caused the drums to beat for
volunteers; and a good number of the poor bay…weavers; and such…
like people; wanting employment; enlisted; so that they completed
Sir Charles Lucas's regiment; which was but thin; to near eight
hundred men。
On the 10th we had news that the Lord Fairfax; having beaten the
Royalists at Maidstone; and retaken Rochester; had passed the
Thames at Gravesend; though with great difficulty; and with some
loss; and was come to Horndon…on…the…Hill; in order to gain
Colchester before the Royalists; but that hearing Sir Charles Lucas
had prevented him; had ordered his rendezvous at Billerecay; and
intended to possess the pass at Malden on the 11th; where Sir
Thomas Honnywood; with the county…trained bands; was to be the same
day。
The same evening the Lord Goring; with all his forces; making about
five thousand six hundred men; horse and foot; came to Colchester;
and encamping without the suburbs; under command of the cannon of
St。 Mary's fort; made disposition to fight the Parliament forces if
they came up。
The 12th; the Lord Goring came into Colchester; viewed the fort in
St。 Mary's churchyard; ordered more cannon to be planted upon it;
posted two regiments in the suburbs without the head gate; let the
town know he would take them into his Majesty's protection; and
that he would fight the enemy in that situation。 The same evening
the Lord Fairfax; with a strong party of one thousand horse; came
to Lexden; at two small miles' distance; expecting the rest of his
army there the same night。
The Lord Goring brought in prisoners the same day; Sir William
Masham; and several other gentlemen of the county; who were secured
under a strong guard; which the Parliament hearing; ordered twenty
prisoners of the royal party to be singled out; declaring; that
they should be used in the same manner as the Lord Goring used Sir
William Masham; and the gentlemen prisoners with him。
On the 13th; early in the morning; our spies brought intelligence
that the Lord Fairfax; all his forces being come up to him; was
making dispositions for a march; resolving to attack the Royalists
in their camp; upon which; the Lord Goring drew all his forces
together; resolving to fight。 The engineers had offered the night
before to entrench his camp; and to draw a line round it in one
night's time; but his lordship declined it; and now there was no
time for it; whereupon the general; Lord Goring; drew up his army
in order of battle on both sides the road; the horse in the open
fields on the wings; the foot were drawn up; one regiment in the
road; one regiment on each side; and two regiments for reserve in
the suburb; just at the entrance of the town; with a regiment of
volunteers advanced as a forlorn hope; and a regiment of horse at
the head…gate; ready to support the reserve; as occasion should
require。
About nine in the morning we heard the enemy's drums beat a march;
and in half an hour more their first troops appeared on the higher
grounds towards Lexden。 Immediately the cannon from St。 Mary's
fired upon them; and put some troops of horse into confusion; doing
great execution; which; they not being able to shun it; made them
quicken their pace; fall on; when our cannon were obliged to cease
firing; lest we should hurt our own troops as well as the enemy。
Soon after; their