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ten and twelve horses a…piece; they were laden so heavy。



As these fens appear covered with water; so I observed; too; that

they generally at this latter part of the year appear also covered

with fogs; so that when the downs and higher grounds of the

adjacent country were gilded with the beams of the sun; the Isle of

Ely looked as if wrapped up in blankets; and nothing to be seen but

now and then the lantern or cupola of Ely Minster。



One could hardly see this from the hills and not pity the many

thousands of families that were bound to or confined in those fogs;

and had no other breath to draw than what must be mixed with those

vapours; and that steam which so universally overspreads the

country。  But notwithstanding this; the people; especially those

that are used to it; live unconcerned; and as healthy as other

folks; except now and then an ague; which they make light of; and

there are great numbers of very ancient people among them。



I now draw near to Cambridge; to which I fancy I look as if I was

afraid to come; having made so many circumlocutions beforehand; but

I must yet make another digression before I enter the town (for in

my way; and as I came in from Newmarket; about the beginning of

September); I cannot omit; that I came necessarily through

Stourbridge Fair; which was then in its height。



If it is a diversion worthy a book to treat of trifles; such as the

gaiety of Bury Fair; it cannot be very unpleasant; especially to

the trading part of the world; to say something of this fair; which

is not only the greatest in the whole nation; but in the world;

nor; if I may believe those who have seen the mall; is the fair at

Leipzig in Saxony; the mart at Frankfort…on…the…Main; or the fairs

at Nuremberg; or Augsburg; any way to compare to this fair at

Stourbridge。



It is kept in a large corn…field; near Casterton; extending from

the side of the river Cam; towards the road; for about half a mile

square。



If the husbandmen who rent the land; do not get their corn off

before a certain day in August; the fair…keepers may trample it

under foot and spoil it to build their booths; or tents; for all

the fair is kept in tents and booths。  On the other hand; to

balance that severity; if the fair…keepers have not done their

business of the fair; and removed and cleared the field by another

certain day in September; the ploughmen may come in again; with

plough and cart; and overthrow all; and trample into the dirt; and

as for the filth; dung; straw; etc。 necessarily left by the fair…

keepers; the quantity of which is very great; it is the farmers'

fees; and makes them full amends for the trampling; riding; and

carting upon; and hardening the ground。



It is impossible to describe all the parts and circumstances of

this fair exactly; the shops are placed in rows like streets;

whereof one is called Cheapside; and here; as in several other

streets; are all sorts of trades; who sell by retail; and who come

principally from London with their goods; scarce any trades are

omitted … goldsmiths; toyshops; brasiers; turners; milliners;

haberdashers; hatters; mercers; drapers; pewterers; china…

warehouses; and in a word all trades that can be named in London;

with coffee…houses; taverns; brandy…shops; and eating…houses;

innumerable; and all in tents; and booths; as above。



This great street reaches from the road; which as I said goes from

Cambridge to Newmarket; turning short out of it to the right

towards the river; and holds in a line near half a mile quite down

to the river…side: in another street parallel with the road are

like rows of booths; but larger; and more intermingled with

wholesale dealers; and one side; passing out of this last street to

the left hand; is a formal great square; formed by the largest

booths; built in that form; and which they call the Duddery; whence

the name is derived; and what its signification is; I could never

yet learn; though I made all possible search into it。  The area of

this square is about 80 to 100 yards; where the dealers have room

before every booth to take down; and open their packs; and to bring

in waggons to load and unload。



This place is separated; and peculiar to the wholesale dealers in

the woollen manufacture。  Here the booths or tents are of a vast

extent; have different apartments; and the quantities of goods they

bring are so great; that the insides of them look like another

Blackwell Hall; being as vast warehouses piled up with goods to the

top。  In this Duddery; as I have been informed; there have been

sold one hundred thousand pounds worth of woollen manufactures in

less than a week's time; besides the prodigious trade carried on

here; by wholesale men; from London; and all parts of England; who

transact their business wholly in their pocket…books; and meeting

their chapmen from all parts; make up their accounts; receive money

chiefly in bills; and take orders: These they say exceed by far the

sales of goods actually brought to the fair; and delivered in kind;

it being frequent for the London wholesale men to carry back orders

from their dealers for ten thousand pounds' worth of goods a man;

and some much more。  This especially respects those people; who

deal in heavy goods; as wholesale grocers; salters; brasiers; iron…

merchants; wine…merchants; and the like; but does not exclude the

dealers in woollen manufactures; and especially in mercery goods of

all sorts; the dealers in which generally manage their business in

this manner。



Here are clothiers from Halifax; Leeds; Wakefield and Huddersfield

in Yorkshire; and from Rochdale; Bury; etc。; in Lancashire; with

vast quantities of Yorkshire cloths; kerseys; pennistons; cottons;

etc。; with all sorts of Manchester ware; fustiains; and things made

of cotton wool; of which the quantity is so great; that they told

me there were near a thousand horse…packs of such goods from that

side of the country; and these took up a side and half of the

Duddery at least; also a part of a street of booths were taken up

with upholsterer's ware; such as tickings; sackings; kidderminster

stuffs; blankets; rugs; quilts; etc。



In the Duddery I saw one warehouse; or booth with six apartments in

it; all belonging to a dealer in Norwich stuffs only; and who; they

said; had there above twenty thousand pounds value in those goods;

and no other。



Western goods had their share here also; and several booths were

filled as full with serges; duroys; druggets; shalloons;

cantaloons; Devonshire kerseys; etc。; from Exeter; Taunton;

Bristol; and other parts west; and some from London also。



But all this is still outdone at least in show; by two articles;

which are the peculiars of this fair; and do not begin till the

other part of the fair; that is to say for the woollen manufacture

begins to draw to a close。  These are the wool and the hops; as for

the hops; there is scarce any price fixed for hops in England; till

they know how they sell at Stourbridge fair; the quantity that

appears in the fair is indeed prodigious; and they; as it were;

possess a large part of the field on which the fair is kept to

themselves; they are brought directly from Chelmsford in Essex;

from Canterbury and Maidstone in Kent; and from Farnham in Surrey;

besides what are brought from London; the growth of those and other

places。



Enquiring why this fair should be thus; of all other places in

England; the centre of that trade; and so great a quantity of so

bulky a commodity be carried thither so far; I was answered by one

thoroughly acquainted with that matter thus: the hops; said he; for

this part of England; grow principally in the two counties of

Surrey and Kent; with an exception only to the town of Chelmsford

in Essex; and there are very few planted anywhere else。



There are indeed in the west of England some quantities growing: as

at Wilton; near Salisbury; at Hereford and Broomsgrove; near Wales;

and the like; but the quantity is inconsiderable; and the places

remote; so that none of them come to London。



As to the north of England; they formerly used but few hops there;

their drink being chiefly pale smooth ale; which required no hops;

and consequently they planted no hops in all that part of England;

north of the Trent; nor did I ever see one acre of hop…ground

planted beyond Trent in my observation; but as for some years past;

they not only brew great quantities of beer in the north; but also

use hops in the brewing their ale much more than they did before;

so they all come south of Trent to buy their hops; and here being

quantities brought; it is great part of their back carriage into

Yorkshire; and Northamptonshire; Derbyshire; Lancashire; and all

these counties; nay; of late; since the Union; even to Scotland

itself; for I must not omit here also to mention; that the river

Grant; or Cam; which runs close by the north…west side of the fa

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