tour through the eastern counties of england-第10节
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to the Duchess Dowager of Buckinghamshire; the present Duke of
Manchester retiring to his ancient family seat at Kimbolton in
Huntingdonshire; it being a much finer residence。 His grace is
lately married to a daughter of the Duke of Montagu by a branch of
the house of Marlborough。
Four market towns fill up the rest of this part of the country …
Dunmow; Braintree; Thaxted; and Coggeshall … all noted for the
manufacture of bays; as above; and for very little else; except I
shall make the ladies laugh at the famous old story of the Flitch
of Bacon at Dunmow; which is this:
One Robert Fitzwalter; a powerful baron in this county in the time
of Henry III。; on some merry occasion; which is not preserved in
the rest of the story; instituted a custom in the priory here: That
whatever married man did not repent of his being married; or
quarrel or differ and dispute with his wife within a year and a day
after his marriage; and would swear to the truth of it; kneeling
upon two hard pointed stones in the churchyard; which stones he
caused to be set up in the Priory churchyard for that purpose; the
prior and convent; and as many of the town as would; to be present;
such person should have a flitch of bacon。
I do not remember to have read that any one ever came to demand it;
nor do the people of the place pretend to say; of their own
knowledge; that they remember any that did so。 A long time ago
several did demand it; as they say; but they know not who; neither
is there any record of it; nor do they tell us; if it were now to
be demanded; who is obliged to deliver the flitch of bacon; the
priory being dissolved and gone。
The forest of Epping and Hainault spreads a great part of this
country still。 I shall speak again of the former in my return from
this circuit。 Formerly; it is thought; these two forests took up
all the west and south part of the county; but particularly we are
assured; that it reached to the River Chelmer; and into Dengy
Hundred; and from thence again west to Epping and Waltham; where it
continues to be a forest still。
Probably this forest of Epping has been a wild or forest ever since
this island was inhabited; and may show us; in some parts of it;
where enclosures and tillage has not broken in upon it; what the
face of this island was before the Romans' time; that is to say;
before their landing in Britain。
The constitution of this forest is best seen; I mean as to the
antiquity of it; by the merry grant of it from Edward the Confessor
before the Norman Conquest to Randolph Peperking; one of his
favourites; who was after called Peverell; and whose name remains
still in several villages in this county; as particularly that of
Hatfield Peverell; in the road from Chelmsford to Witham; which is
supposed to be originally a park; which they called a field in
those days; and Hartfield may be as much as to say a park for doer;
for the stags were in those days called harts; so that this was
neither more nor less than Randolph Peperking's Hartfield … that is
to say; Ralph Peverell's deer…park。
N。B。 … This Ralph Randolph; or Ralph Peverell (call him as you
please); had; it seems; a most beautiful lady to his wife; who was
daughter of Ingelrick; one of Edward the Confessor's noblemen。 He
had two sons by her … William Peverell; a famed soldier; and lord
or governor of Dover Castle; which he surrendered to William the
Conqueror; after the battle in Sussex; and Pain Peverell; his
youngest; who was lord of Cambridge。 When the eldest son delivered
up the castle; the lady; his mother; above named; who was the
celebrated beauty of the age; was it seems there; and the Conqueror
fell in love with her; and whether by force or by consent; took her
away; and she became his mistress; or what else you please to call
it。 By her he had a son; who was called William; after the
Conqueror's Christian name; but retained the name of Peverell; and
was afterwards created by the Conqueror lord of Nottingham。
This lady afterwards; as is supposed; by way of penance for her
yielding to the Conqueror; founded a nunnery at the village of
Hatfield Peverell; mentioned above; and there she lies buried in
the chapel of it; which is now the parish church; where her memory
is preserved by a tombstone under one of the windows。
Thus we have several towns; where any ancient parks have been
placed; called by the name of Hatfield on that very account。 As
Hatfield Broad Oak in this county; Bishop's Hatfield in
Hertfordshire; and several others。
But I return to King Edward's merry way; as I call it; of granting
this forest to this Ralph Peperking; which I find in the ancient
records; in the very words it was passed in; as follows。 Take my
explanations with it for the sake of those that are not used to the
ancient English:
The Grant in Old English。
IChe EDWARD Koning;
Have given of my Forrest the kepen of the Hundred of CHELMER and
DANCING。
To RANDOLPH PEPERKING;
And to his kindling。
With Heorte and Hind; Doe and Bocke;
Hare and Fox; Cat and Brock;
Wild Fowle with his Flock;
Patrich; Pheasant Hen; and Pheasant Cock;
With green and wild Stub and Stock;
To kepen and to yemen with all her might。
Both by Day; and eke by Night;
And Hounds for to hold;
Good and Swift and Bold:
Four Greyhound and six Raches;
For Hare and Fox; and Wild Cattes;
And therefore Iche made him my Book。
Witness the Bishop of WOLSTON。
And Booke ylrede many on;
And SWEYNE of ESSEX; our Brother;
And taken him many other
And our steward HOWLEIN;
That BY SOUGHT me for him。
The Explanation in Modern English
I Edward the king;
Have made ranger of my forest of Chelmsford hundred and Deering
hundred;
Ralph Peverell; for him and his heirs for ever;
With both the red and fallow deer。
Hare and fox; otter and badger;
Wild fowl of all sorts;
Partridges and pheasants;
Timber and underwood roots and tops;
With power to preserve the forest;
And watch it against deer…stealers and others:
With a right to keep hounds of all sorts;
Four greyhounds and six terriers;
Harriers and foxhounds; and other hounds。
And to this end I have registered this my grant in the crown rolls
or books;
To which the bishop has set his hand as a witness for any one to
read。
Also signed by the king's brother (or; as some think; the
Chancellor Sweyn; then Earl or Count of Essex)。
He might call such other witnesses to sign as he thought fit。
Also the king's high steward was a witness; at whose request this
grant was obtained of the king。
There are many gentlemen's seats on this side the country; and a
great assembly set up at New Hall; near this town; much resorted to
by the neighbouring gentry。 I shall next proceed to the county of
Suffolk; as my first design directed me to do。
From Harwich; therefore; having a mind to view the harbour; I sent
my horses round by Manningtree; where there is a timber bridge over
the Stour; called Cataway Bridge; and took a boat up the River
Orwell for Ipswich。 A traveller will hardly understand me;
especially a seaman; when I speak of the River Stour and the River
Orwell at Harwich; for they know them by no other names than those
of Manningtree water and Ipswich water; so while I am on salt
water; I must speak as those who use the sea may understand me; and
when I am up in the country among the inland towns again; I shall
call them out of their names no more。
It is twelve miles from Harwich up the water to Ipswich。 Before I
come to the town; I must say something of it; because speaking of
the river requires it。 In former times; that is to say; since the
writer of this remembers the place very well; and particularly just
before the late Dutch wars; Ipswich was a town of very good
business; particularly it was the greatest town in England for
large colliers or coal…ships employed between Newcastle and London。
Also they built the biggest ships and the best; for the said
fetching of coals of any that were employed in that trade。 They
built; also; there so prodigious strong; that it was an ordinary
thing for an Ipswich collier; if no disaster happened to him; to
reign (as seamen call it) forty or fifty years; and more。
In the town of Ipswich the masters of these ships generally dwelt;
and there were; as they then told me; above a hundred sail of them;
belonging to the town at one time; the least of which carried
fifteen score; as they compute it; that is; 300 chaldron of coals;
this was about the year 1668 (when I first knew the place)。 This
made the town be at that time so populous; for those masters; as
they had good ships at sea; so they had large families who lived
plentifully; and in very good houses in the town; and several
streets were chiefly inhabited by such。
The loss or decay of this trade accounts for the present pretended
decay of the town o