ismailia-第8节
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river。 The Bahr Giraffe was about seventy yards in width; and at this
season the banks were high and dry。 Throughout the voyage on the White
Nile we had had excellent wild…fowl shooting whenever we had halted to
cut fuel for the steamers。 One afternoon I killed a hippopotamus; two
crocodiles; and two pelicans; with the rifle。 At the mouth of the Bahr
Giraffe I bagged twenty…two ducks at a right and left shot with a No。
10…shot gun。
As the fleet now slowly sailed against the strong; current of the Bahr
Giraffe; I walked along the hank with Lieutenant Baker; and shot ten of
the large francolin partridge; which in this dry season were very
numerous。 The country was as usual flat; but bearing due south of the
Bahr Giraffe junction; about twelve miles distant; is a low granite
hill; partially covered with trees; this is the first of four similar
low hills that are the only rising points above the vast prairie of flat
plain。
As we were walking along the bank I perceived an animal ascending from
the river; about two hundred yards distant; where it had evidently been
drinking: we immediately endeavoured to cut off its retreat; when it
suddenly emerged from the grass and discovered a fine lion with large
shaggy mane。 The king of beasts; as usual; would not stand to show fight
in the open; but bounded off in the direction of the rocky hills。
It will be necessary to give a few extracts from my journal to convey an
exact idea of the Bahr Giraffe。 The river was very deep; averaging about
nineteen feet; and it flowed in a winding course; through a perfectly
flat country of prairie; diversified with forest all of which; although
now dry; had the appearance of being flooded during the rainy season:
〃February 23。Steamed from 6 A。M。 till 7 P。M。 Vast treeless marshes in
wet seasonnow teeming with waterfowl: say fifty miles accomplished
to…day through the ever…winding river。 The wood from the last forest is
inferior; and we have only sufficient fuel for five hours left upon the
steamer。 The diahbeeah in tow carries about twenty hours' fuel: thus;
should we not arrive at some forest in twenty…five hours; we shall be
helpless。
〃The river was exceedingly narrow about fifteen miles from our starting
point this morning。 The stream was strong but deep; flowing through the
usual tangled grass; but divided into numerous small channels and
backwaters that render the navigation difficult。
〃In this spot the river is quite bank…full; and the scattered native
villages in the distance are in swamps。 The innumerable high white
ant…hills are the only dry spots。
〃February 24。Started at 6 A。M。 Everybody eaten up by mosquitoes。 At 9
A。M。 the steamer smashed her starboard paddle: the whole day occupied in
repairing。 Saw a bull elephant in the marshes at a distance。 Horrible
treeless swamps swarming with mosquitoes。
〃February 25。Started at 7 A。M。 At 10 A。M。 arrived at a very narrow and
shallow portion of this chaotic river completely choked by drift
vegetation。 All hands worked hard to clear a passage through this
obstruction until 2。30; when we passed ahead。 At 4 P。M。 we arrived at a
similar obstacle; the water very shallow; and to…morrow we shall have to
cut a passage through the high grass; beneath which there is deeper
water。 I ordered fifty swords to be sharpened for the work。 We counted
seventy elephants in the distance; but there is no possibility of
reaching them through the immense area; of floating vegetation。
〃February 26。Hard at work with forty men cutting a canal about 150
yards long through the dense mass of compressed vegetation。
〃February 27。Working hard at canal。 The fleet has not arrived; thus we
are short…handed。
〃February 28。The canal progresses; the men having worked well。 It is a
curious collection of trash that seriously impedes navigation。 The grass
resembles sugar…canes; this grows from twenty to thirty feet in length;
and throws out roots at every joint; thus; when matted together; its
roots still increase; and render the mass a complete tangle。 During the
wet season the rush of water tears off large rafts of this floating
water…grass; which accumulate in any favourable locality。 The difficulty
of clearing a passage is extreme。 After cutting out a large mass with
swords; a rope is made fast; and the raft is towed out by hauling with
thirty or forty men until it is detached and floated down the stream。
Yesterday I cut a narrow channel from above stream in the hope that the
rush of water would loosen the mass of vegetation。 After much labour; at
12。30 p。m。 the whole obstruction appeared to heave。 There was soon no
doubt that it was moving; and suddenly the entire dam broke up。 Immense
masses were carried away by the rush of water and floated down the
river; these will; I fear; cause an obstruction lower down the stream。
〃We got up steam; served out grog to all the men; and started at 2 P。M。
In half…an…hour's steaming we arrived at another block vegetation。 In
one hour and three…quarters we cleared a passage; and almost immediately
afterwards we arrived at the first piece of dry ground that we have seen
for days。 This piece of firm land was a few feet higher than the maximum
rise of the river; and afforded about half an acre。 We stopped for the
night。
〃March 1。Started at 6。30 A。M。; the river narrowing immediately; and
after a run of half a mile we found ourselves caught in a trap。 The
river; although fourteen feet deep; had entirely disappeared in a
boundless sea of high grass; which resembled sugar…canes。 There was no
possibility of progress。 I returned to our halting…place of last night
in a small rowing…boat; and examined it thoroughly。 I found marks of
occupation by the slave…traders; about three months old。 Among the
vestiges were the remains of fires; a piece of a lucifer…match box; a
number of cartridge casesthey had been firedand a piece of raw hide
pierced with bullets; that had evidently been used as a target。
〃I shot two geese and five plover; and returned to our vessel。 My
opinion is that the slave…hunters have made a razzia inland from this
spot; but that our guide; Bedawi; has led us into a wrong channel。
〃I attempted to seek a passage ahead; but it was quite impossible for
the smallest rowing boat to penetrate the dense vegetation。
〃An advance being impossible; I ordered the steamer and two diahbeeahs
to return down the river about eighty miles to our old wooding…place at
the last forest; as we are nearly out of fuel。 We thus lose time and
trouble; but there is no help for it。 For some days there has been no
wind; except uncertain breaths from the south。 Unless a change shall
take place; I have no idea how the fleet will be able to come up against
the stream。
〃March 2。At 6。30 a。m。 we got under way and ran down stream at eight
miles an hour towards our old wooding…place。 Saw a few buffaloes。 At 1
p。m。 we passed on left bank a branch of the river。 At 3。30 sighted the
tall yards of the fleet in the distance。 At 4。30 we arrived at the
extreme southern limit of the forest; and met Raouf Bey with the steamer
and twenty…five vessels; with a good supply of wood。 The troops were in
good health; but one unfortunate man had been carried off by a crocodile
while sitting on the vessel with his legs hanging over the side。
〃March 3。Filling up with wood from the forest。
〃March 4。Sent the steamer back to the station of Kutchuk Ali; the
trader; to procure some cattle for the troops。 In this neighbourhood
there is dry land with many villages; but the entire country has been
pillaged by Kutchuk Ali's peoplethe natives murdered; the women
carried off; &c。
〃Raouf Bey counted the bodies of eighteen natives who had been shot near
the trader's camp。 Yesterday I went to a native village; and made
friends with the people; some of whom came down to our boats; they
complained bitterly that they were subject to pillage and massacre by
the traders。 These so…called traders are the people of Kutchuk Ali; THE
OFFICER EMPLOYED BY THE GOVENOR…GENERAL OF THE SOUDAN to command his
expedition to the Bahr Gazal!
〃Filled up with a large supply of wood ready to start tomorrow。
〃March 5。Great good fortune! A fine north wind for the first time
during many days。 All the vessels sailing well。 We started at 7 a。m。 Saw
a Baleniceps Rex'*'; this is the second of these rare birds that I have
seen。
'*Footnote: The whale…headed stork; or Baleniceps Rex; is only met with
in the immense swamps of the White Nile。 This bird feeds generally upon
water shellfish; for which nature has provided a most powerful beak
armed with a hook at the extremity。)
〃At 1 p。m。; as we were steaming easily; I happened to be asleep on the
poop…deck; when I was suddenly awakened by a shock; succeeded almost
immediately by the cry; ‘The ship's sinking!' A hippopotamus had charged
the steamer from the bottom; and had smashed several floats off her
starboard paddle。 A few seconds later he charged our diahbeeah; and
striking her bottom about ten feet from the bow; he cut two holes
through the iron plates with his tusks。 There was no time to lose; as
the water was rushing in with great force。 Fortunately; in this land of
marsh and floatin