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Khartoum; and to that admirable officer I intrusted the charge of the
steamer sections and machinery; together with the command of the English
engineers and mechanics。
I arranged to bring up the rear by another route; via Souakim on the Red
Sea; from which the desert journey to Berber; on the Nile; N。 lat。 17
degrees 37 minutes; is 275 statute miles。
My reason for this division of routes was to insure a quick supply of
camels; as much delay would have been occasioned had the great mass of
transport been conveyed by one road。
The military arrangements comprised a force of 1;645 troops; including a
corps of 200 irregular cavalry; and two batteries of artillery。 The
infantry were two regiments; supposed to be well selected。 The black or
Soudani regiment included many officers and men who had served for some
years in Mexico with the French army under Marshal Bazaine。 The Egyptian
regiment turned out to be for the most part convicted felons who had
been transported for various crimes from Egypt to the Soudan。
The artillery were rifled mountain guns of bronze; the barrel weighing
230 lbs。; and throwing shells of 8…1/4 lbs。 The authorities at Woolwich
had kindly supplied the expedition with 200 Hale's
rocketsthree…poundersand fifty snider rifles; together with 50;000
rounds of snider ammunition。 The military force and supplies were to be
massed in Khartoum ready to meet me upon my arrival。
I had taken extra precautions in the packing of ammunition and all
perishable goods。 The teak boxes for snider ammunition; also the boxes
of Hale's rockets; were lined and hermetically sealed with soldered tin。
The light Manchester goods and smaller articles were packed in strong;
useful; painted tin boxes; with locks and hinges; &c。 Each box was
numbered; and when the lid was opened; a tin plate was soldered over the
open face; so that the lid; when closed; locked above an hermetically
sealed case。 Each tin box was packed in a deal case; with a number to
correspond with the box within。
By this arrangement the tin boxes arrived at their destination as good
as new; and were quite invaluable for travelling; as they each formed a
handy load; and were alike proof against the attacks of insects and bad
weather。
I had long waterproof cloaks for the night sentries in rainy climates;
and sou'…wester caps; these proved of great service during active
operations in the wet season; as the rifles were kept dry beneath the
cloaks; and the men were protected from wet and cold when on guard。
All medicines and drugs were procured from Apothecaries' Hall; and were
accordingly of the best quality。
The provisions for the troops were dhurra (sorghum vulgare); wheat;
rice; and lentils。 The supplies from England; and in fact the general
arrangements; had been so carefully attended to; that throughout the
expedition I could not feel a want; neither could I either regret or
wish to have changed any plan that I had originally determined。
For the transport of the heavy machinery across the desert I employed
gun carriages drawn by two camels each。 The two sections of steamers and
of lifeboats were slung upon long poles of fir from Trieste; arranged
between two camels in the manner of shafts。 Many hundred poles served
this purpose; and subsequently; were used at head…quarters as rafters
for magazines and various buildings。
The No。 1 steamer of 250 tons had not arrived from England。 I therefore
left instructions that she was to be forwarded across the desert upon
the same principles as adopted for the transport of the other vessels。
I had thrown my whole heart into the expedition; but I quickly perceived
the difficulties that I should encounter in the passive resistance of
those whose interests would be affected by the suppression of the slave
trade。 The arrangements that I had made would have insured success; if
carried out according to the dates specified。 The six steamers and the
sailing flotilla from Cairo should have started on 10th June; in order
to have ascended the cataracts of Wady Halfah at the period of high
water。 Instead of this; the vessels were delayed; in the absence of the
Khedive in Europe; until 29th August; thus; by the time they reached the
second cataract; the river had fallen; and it was impossible to drag the
‘steamers through the passage until the next season。 Thus twelve months
were wasted; and I was at once deprived of the invaluable aid of six
steamers。
In addition to this difficulty was the fact of inevitable delay
necessitated by the festivities attending the opening of the Suez Canal。
The Khedive; with his accustomed hospitality; had made immense
preparations for the reception of visitors; and every available vessel
had been prepared for the occasion。
A train of forty…one railway waggons laden with sections of steamers;
machinery; boiler…plates; &c。; &c。; arrived at Cairo; and were embarked
on board eleven hired vessels。 With the greatest difficulty I procured a
steamer of 140…horse power to tow this flotilla to Korosko; from which
spot the desert journey would commence。 I obtained this steamer only by
personal application to the Khedive。
At length I witnessed the start of the entire English party of engineers
and mechanics; together with Mr。 Higginbotham and Dr。 J。 Gedge。 The
steamer Minieh; towed the lone line of eleven vessels against the
powerful stream of the Nile。 One of the tow…ropes snipped at the
commencement of the voyage; which created some confusion; but when
righted they quickly steamed。 out of view。 This mass of heavy material;
including two steamers; and two steel lifeboats of ten tons each; was to
be transported for a distance of about 3;000 miles; 400 of which would
be across the scorching Nubian deserts!
The first division of the heavy baggage had started on 29th August;
1869; with the sloops; to ascend the cataracts direct by river to
Khartoum。 I dared; not trust any portions of the steamers by this
dangerous route; lest by the loss of one vessel with sections I might
destroy all hope of success。
It was a relief to have started the main branches of the expedition;
after the various delays that had already seriously endangered the
chances of the White Nile voyage。 For that river all vessels should
leave Khartoum early in November。
On 5th December; 1869; we brought up the rear; and left Suez on board an
Egyptian sloop of war; the Senaar。 In four days and a half we reached
Souakim; after an escape from wreck on the reef of Shadwan; and a close
acquaintance with a large barque; with which we nearly came into
collision。
The captain of our sloop was a most respectable man; apparently about
eighty years of age。 The first lieutenant appeared to be somewhat his
senior; and neither could see; even with the assistance of a very greasy
and dirty binocular。 The various officers appeared to be vestiges from
Noah's ark in point of antiquity; thus a close shave with a reef and a
near rub with a strange vessel were little incidents that might be
expected in the Red Sea。
We anchored safely in the harbour of Souakim; and landed my twenty…one
horses without accident。
I was met by the governor; my old friend Moomtazz Bey; a highly
intelligent Circassian officer; who had shown me much kindness on my
former expedition。
A week's delay in Souakim was necessary to obtain camels。 In fourteen
days we crossed the desert 275 miles to Berber on the Nile; and found a
steamer and diahbeeah in readiness。 We arrived at Khartoum; a distance
of 200 miles by river; in three days; having accomplished the voyage
from Suez in the short space of thirty…two days; including stoppages。
Khartoum was not changed externally; but I had observed with dismay a
frightful change in the features of the country between Berber and the
capital since my former visit。 The rich soil on the banks of the river;
which had a few years since been highly cultivated; was abandoned。 Now
and then a tuft of neglected date…palms might be seen; but the river's
banks; formerly verdant with heavy crops; had become a wilderness。
Villages once crowded had entirely disappeared; the population was gone。
Irrigation had ceased。 The night; formerly discordant with the creaking
of countless water…wheels; was now silent as death。 There was not a dog
to howl for a lost master。 Industry had vanished; oppression had driven
the inhabitants from the soil。
This terrible desolation was caused by the governor general of the
Soudan; who; although himself an honest man; trusted too much to the
honesty of others; who preyed upon the inhabitants。 As a good and true
Mohammedan; he left his territory to the care of God; and thus; trusting
in Providence; he simply increased the taxes。 In one year he sent to the
Khedive his master 100;000 pounds in hard dollars; wrung from the poor
peasantry; who must have lost an equal amount in the pillage that
accompanies the collection。
The population of the richest province of the Soudan fled from
oppression; and abandoned the country; and the greater portion betook
themselves to the slave trade of the White Nile; where; in their turn;
they might trample upon the rights of others; where; as they had been
plunde