part01-第4节

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gallon；　filled　to　the　neck　with　choice　Valdepenas　wine。*　As　we

depended　more　upon　these　for　our　well…being　than　even　his　trabuco；

we　exhorted　him　to　be　more　attentive　in　keeping　them　well　charged；　and

I　must　do　him　the　justice　to　say　that　his　namesake；　the

trencher…loving　Sancho　Panza；　was　never　a　more　provident　purveyor。

Though　the　alforjas　and　the　bota　were　frequently　and　vigorously

assailed　throughout　the　journey；　they　had　a　wonderful　power　of

repletion；　our　vigilant　squire　sacking　every　thing　that　remained

from　our　repasts　at　the　inns；　to　supply　these　junketings　by　the

road…side；　which　were　his　delight。



　　*　It　may　be　as　well　to　note　here；　that　the　alforjas　are　square

pockets　at　each　end　of　a　long　cloth　about　a　foot　and　a　half　wide；

formed　by　turning　up　its　extremities。　The　cloth　is　then　thrown　over

the　saddle；　and　the　pockets　hang　on　each　side　like　saddle…bags。　It

is　an　Arab　invention。　The　bota　is　a　leathern　bag　or　bottle；　of

portly　dimensions；　with　a　narrow　neck。　It　is　also　oriental。　Hence

the　scriptural　caution；　which　perplexed　me　in　my　boyhood；　not　to　put

new　wine　into　old　bottles。



　　On　the　present　occasion　he　spread　quite　a　sumptuous　variety　of

remnants　on　the　green…sward　before　us；　graced　with　an　excellent　ham

brought　from　Seville；　then；　taking　his　seat　at　a　little　distance；　he

solaced　himself　with　what　remained　in　the　alforjas。　A　visit　or　two

to　the　bota　made　him　as　merry　and　chirruping　as　a　grasshopper　filled

with　dew。　On　my　comparing　his　contents　of　the　alforjas　to　Sancho's

skimming　of　the　flesh…pots　at　the　wedding　of　Camacho；　I　found　he　was

well　versed　in　the　history　of　Don　Quixote；　but；　like　many　of　the

common　people　of　Spain；　firmly　believed　it　to　be　a　true　history。

　　〃All　that　happened　a　long　time　ago；　senor；〃　said　he；　with　an

inquiring　look。

　　〃A　very　long　time；〃　I　replied。

　　〃I　dare　say　more　than　a　thousand　years〃…　still　looking　dubiously。

　　〃I　dare　say　not　less。〃

　　The　squire　was　satisfied。　Nothing　pleased　the　simple…hearted

varlet　more　than　my　comparing　him　to　the　renowned　Sancho　for

devotion　to　the　trencher；　and　he　called　himself　by　no　other　name

throughout　the　journey。

　　Our　repast　being　finished；　we　spread　our　cloaks　on　the　green…sward

under　the　tree；　and　took　a　luxurious　siesta　in　the　Spanish　fashion。

The　clouding　up　of　the　weather；　however；　warned　us　to　depart；　and　a

harsh　wind　sprang　up　from　the　southeast。　Towards　five　o'clock　we

arrived　at　Osuna；　a　town　of　fifteen　thousand　inhabitants；　situated

on　the　side　of　a　hill；　with　a　church　and　a　ruined　castle。　The　posada

was　outside　of　the　walls；　it　had　a　cheerless　look。　The　evening　being

cold；　the　inhabitants　were　crowded　round　a　brasero　in　a　chimney

corner；　and　the　hostess　was　a　dry　old　woman；　who　looked　like　a

mummy。　Every　one　eyed　us　askance　as　we　entered；　as　Spaniards　are　apt

to　regard　strangers；　a　cheery；　respectful　salutation　on　our　part；

caballeroing　them　and　touching　our　sombreros；　set　Spanish　pride　at

ease；　and　when　we　took　our　seat　among　them；　lit　our　cigars；　and　passed

the　cigar…box　round　among　them；　our　victory　was　complete。　I　have　never

known　a　Spaniard；　whatever　his　rank　or　condition；　who　would　suffer

himself　to　be　outdone　in　courtesy；　and　to　the　common　Spaniard　the

present　of　a　cigar　（puro）　is　irresistible。　Care；　however；　must　be

taken　never　to　offer　him　a　present　with　an　air　of　superiority　and

condescension；　he　is　too　much　of　a　caballero　to　receive　favors　at

the　cost　of　his　dignity。

　　Leaving　Osuna　at　an　early　hour　the　next　morning；　we　entered　the

sierra　or　range　of　mountains。　The　road　wound　through　picturesque

scenery；　but　lonely；　and　a　cross　here　and　there　by　the　road　side；

the　sign　of　a　murder；　showed　that　we　were　now　coming　among　the　〃robber

haunts。〃　This　wild　and　intricate　country；　with　its　silent　plains　and

valleys　intersected　by　mountains；　has　ever　been　famous　for　banditti。

It　was　here　that　Omar　Ibn　Hassan；　a　robber…chief　among　the　Moslems；

held　ruthless　sway　in　the　ninth　century；　disputing　dominion　even

with　the　caliphs　of　Cordova。　This　too　was　a　part　of　the　regions　so

often　ravaged　during　the　reign　of　Ferdinand　and　Isabella　by　Ali

Atar；　the　old　Moorish　alcayde　of　Loxa；　father…in…law　of　Boabdil；　so

that　it　was　called　Ali　Atar's　garden；　and　here　〃Jose　Maria；〃　famous　in

Spanish　brigand　story；　had　his　favorite　lurking　places。

　　In　the　course　of　the　day　we　passed　through　Fuente　la　Piedra　near　a

little　salt　lake　of　the　same　name；　a　beautiful　sheet　of　water；

reflecting　like　a　mirror　the　distant　mountains。　We　now　came　in　sight

of　Antiquera；　that　old　city　of　warlike　reputation；　lying　in　the　lap　of

the　great　sierra　which　runs　through　Andalusia。　A　noble　vega　spread　out

before　it；　a　picture　of　mild　fertility　set　in　a　frame　of　rocky

mountains。　Crossing　a　gentle　river　we　approached　the　city　between

hedges　and　gardens；　in　which　nightingales　were　pouring　forth　their

evening　song。　About　nightfall　we　arrived　at　the　gates。　Every　thing

in　this　venerable　city　has　a　decidedly　Spanish　stamp。　It　lies　too　much

out　of　the　frequented　track　of　foreign　travel　to　have　its　old　usages

trampled　out。　Here　I　observed　old　men　still　wearing　the　montero；　or

ancient　hunting　cap；　once　common　throughout　Spain；　while　the　young　men

wore　the　little　round…crowned　hat；　with　brim　turned　up　all　round；　like

a　cup　turned　down　in　its　saucer；　while　the　brim　was　set　off　with

little　black　tufts　like　cockades。　The　women；　too；　were　all　in

mantillas　and　basquinas。　The　fashions　of　Paris　had　not　reached

Antiquera。

　　Pursuing　our　course　through　a　spacious　street；　we　put　up　at　the

posada　of　San　Fernando。　As　Antiquera；　though　a　considerable　city；

is；　as　I　observed；　somewhat　out　of　the　track　of　travel；　I　had

anticipated　bad　quarters　and　poor　fare　at　the　inn。　I　was　agreeably

disappointed；　therefore；　by　a　supper　table　amply　supplied；　and　what

were　still　more　acceptable；　good　clean　rooms　and　comfortable　beds。　Our

man；　Sancho；　felt　himself　as　well　off　as　his　namesake；　when　he　had　the

run　of　the　duke's　kitchen；　and　let　me　know；　as　I　retired　for　the

night；　that　it　had　been　a　proud　time　for　the　alforjas。

　　Early　in　the　morning　（May　4th）　I　strolled　to　the　ruins　of　the　old

Moorish　castle；　which　itself　had　been　reared　on　the　ruins　of　a　Roman

fortress。　Here；　taking　my　seat　on　the　remains　of　a　crumbling　tower；

I　enjoyed　a　grand　and　varied　landscape；　beautiful　in　itself；　and

full　of　storied　and　romantic　associations；　for　I　was　now　in　the　very

heart　of　the　country　famous　for　the　chivalrous　contests　between　Moor

and　Christian。　Below　me；　in　its　lap　of　hills；　lay　the　old　warrior　city

so　often　mentioned　in　chronicle　and　ballad。　Out　of　yon　gate　and　down

yon　hill　paraded　the　band　of　Spanish　cavaliers；　of　highest　rank　and

bravest　bearing；　to　make　that　foray　during　the　war　and　conquest　of

Granada；　which　ended　in　the　lamentable　massacre　among　the　mountains　of

Malaga；　and　laid　all　Andalusia　in　mourning。　Beyond　spread　out　the

vega；　covered　with　gardens　and　orchards　and　fields　of　grain　and

enamelled　meadows；　inferior　only　to　the　famous　vega　of　Granada。　To　the

right　the　Rock　of　the　Lovers　stretched　like　a　cragged　promontory

into　the　plain；　whence　the　daughter　of　the　Moorish　alcayde　and　her

lover；　when　closely　pursued；　threw　themselves　in　despair。

　　The　matin　peal　from　church　and　convent　below　me　rang　sweetly　in

the　morning　air；　as　I　descended。　The　market…place　was　beginning　to

throng　with　the　populace；　who　traffic　in　the　abundant　produce　of　the

vega；　for　this　is　the　mart　of　an　agricultural　region。　In　the

market…place　were　abundance　of　freshly　plucked　roses　for　sale；　for　not

a　dame　or　damsel　of　Andalusia　thinks　her　gala　dress　complete　without　a

rose　shining　like　a　gem　among　her　raven　tresses。

　　On　returning　to　the　inn　I　found　our　man　Sancho；　in　high　gossip

with　the　landlord　and　two　or　three　of　his　hangers…on。　He　had　just　been

telling　some　marvellous　story　about　Seville；　which　mine　host　seemed

piqued　to　match　with　one　equally　marvellous　about　Antiquera。　There　was

once　a　fountain；　he　said；　in　one　of　the　public　squares　called　IL

fuente　del　toro；　the　fountain　of　the　bull；　because　the　water　gushed

from　the　mouth　of　a　bull's　head；　carved　of　stone。　Underneath　the

head　was　inscribed：



　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　EN　FRENTE　DEL　TORO

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　SE　HALLEN　TESORO。



（In　front　of　the　bull　there　is　treasure。）　Many　digged　in　front　of

the　fountain；　but　lost　their　labor　and　found　no　money。　At　last　one

knowing　fellow　construed　the　motto　a　different　way。　It　is　in　the

forehead　（frente）　of　the　bull　that　the　treasure　is　to　be　found；　said

he　to　himself；　and　I　am　the　man　to　find　it。　Accordingly　he　came　late

at　night；　with　a　mallet；　and　knocked　the　head　to　pieces；　and　what　do

you　think　he　found？

　　〃Plenty　of　gold　and　diamonds！〃　cried　Sancho　eagerly。

　　〃He　found　nothing；〃　rejoined　mine　host　dryly；　〃and　he　ruined　the

fountain。〃

　　Here　a　great　laugh　was　set　up　by　the　landlord's　hangers…on；　who

considered　Sancho　completely　taken　i