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at the Grande Ronde reservation were taken down the coast to the

Siletz reservation察and I was transferred temporarily to Fort

Haskins察on the latter reserve察and assigned to the duty of

completing it and building a blockhouse for the police control of the

Indians placed there。



While directing this work察I undertook to make a road across the

coast mountains from King's Valley to the Siletz察to shorten the haul

between the two points by a route I had explored。  I knew there were

many obstacles in the way察but the gain would be great if we could

overcome them察so I set to work with the enthusiasm of a young path´

finder。  The point at which the road was to cross the range was rough

and precipitous察but the principal difficulty in making it would be

from heavy timber on the mountains that had been burned over years

and years before察until nothing was left but limbless trunks of dead

treesfirs and pinesthat had fallen from time to time until the

ground was matted with huge logs from five to eight feet in diameter。

These could not be chopped with axes nor sawed by any ordinary means

therefore we had to burn them into suitable lengths察and drag the

sections to either side of the roadway with from four to six yoke of

oxen。



The work was both tedious and laborious察but in time perseverance

surmounted all obstacles and the road was finished察though its grades

were very steep。  As soon as it was completed察I wished to

demonstrate its value practically察so I started a Government wagon

over it loaded with about fifteen hundred pounds of freight drawn by

six yoke of oxen察and escorted by a small detachment of soldiers。

When it had gone about seven miles the sergeant in charge came back

to the post and reported his inability to get any further。  Going out

to the scene of difficulty I found the wagon at the base of a steep

hill察stalled。  Taking up a whip myself察I directed the men to lay on

their gads察for each man had supplied himself with a flexible hickory

withe in the early stages of the trip察to start the team察but this

course did not move the wagon nor have much effect on the demoralized

oxen察but following as a last resort an example I heard of on a

former occasion察that brought into use the rough language of the

country察I induced the oxen to move with alacrity察and the wagon and

contents were speedily carried to the summit。  The whole trouble was

at once revealed此the oxen had been broken and trained by a man who

when they were in a pinch察had encouraged them by his frontier

vocabulary察and they could not realize what was expected of them

under extraordinary conditions until they heard familiar and possibly

profanely urgent phrases。  I took the wagon to its destination察but

as it was not brought back察even in all the time I was stationed in

that country察I think comment on the success of my road is

unnecessary。



I spent many happy months at Fort Haskins察remaining there until the

post was nearly completed and its garrison increased by the arrival

of Captain F。 T。 Denta brother´in´law of Captain Ulysses S。 Grant

with his company of the Fourth Infantry察in April察1857。  In the

summer of 1856察and while I was still on duty there察the Coquille

Indians on the Siletz察and down near the Yaquina Bay察became察on

account of hunger and prospective starvation察very much excited and

exasperated察getting beyond the control of their agent察and even

threatening his life察so a detachment of troops was sent out to set

things to rights察and I took command of it。  I took with me most of

the company察and arrived at Yaquina Bay in time to succor the agent

who for some days had been besieged in a log hut by the Indians and

had almost abandoned hope of rescue。



Having brought with me over the mountains a few head of beef cattle

for the hungry Indians察without thinking of running any great

personal risk I had six beeves killed some little distance from my

camp察guarding the meat with four Soldiers察whom I was obliged to

post as sentinels around the small area on which the carcasses lay。

The Indians soon formed a circle about the sentinels察and impelled by

starvation察attempted to take the beef before it could be equally

divided。  This was of course resisted察when they drew their knives

their guns having been previously taken away from themand some of

the inferior chiefs gave the signal to attack。  The principal chief

Tetootney John察and two other Indians joined me in the centre of the

circle察and protesting that they would die rather than that the

frenzied onslaught should succeed察harangued the Indians until the

rest of the company hastened up from camp and put an end to the

disturbance。  I always felt grateful to Tetootney John for his

loyalty on this occasion察and many times afterward aided his family

with a little coffee and sugar察but necessarily surreptitiously察so

as not to heighten the prejudices that his friendly act had aroused

among his Indian comrades。



The situation at Yaquina Bay did not seem very safe察notwithstanding

the supply of beef we brought察and the possibility that the starving

Indians might break out was ever present察so to anticipate any

further revolt察I called for more troops。  The request was complied

with by sending to my assistance the greater part of my own company

─K;from Fort Yamhill。  The men察inspired by the urgency of our

situation察marched more than forty miles a day察accomplishing the

whole distance in so short a period察that I doubt if the record has

ever been beaten。  When this reinforcement arrived察the Indians saw

the futility of further demonstrations against their agent察who they

seemed to think was responsible for the insufficiency of food察and

managed to exist with the slender rations we could spare and such

indifferent food as they could pick up察until the Indian Department

succeeded in getting up its regular supplies。  In the past the poor

things had often been pinched by hunger and neglect察and at times

their only food was rock oysters察clams and crabs。  Great quantities

of these shell´fish could be gathered in the bay near at hand察but

the mountain Indians察who had heretofore lived on the flesh of

mammal察did not take kindly to mollusks察and察indeed察ate the shell´

fish only as a last resort。



Crab catching at night on the Yaquina Bay by the coast Indians was a

very picturesque scene。  It was mostly done by the squaws and

children察each equipped with a torch in one hand察and a sharp´pointed

stick in the other to take and lift the fish into baskets slung on

the back to receive them。  I have seen at times hundreds of squaws

and children wading about in Yaquina Bay taking crabs in this manner

and the reflection by the water of the light from the many torches

with the movements of the Indians while at work察formed a weird and

diverting picture of which we were never tired。



Not long after the arrival of the additional troops from Yamhill察it

became apparent that the number of men at Yaquina Bay would have to

be reduced察so in view of this necessity察it was deemed advisable to

build a block´house for the better protection of the agents and I

looked about for suitable ground on which to erect it。  Nearly all

around the bay the land rose up from the beach very abruptly察and the

only good site that could be found was some level ground used as the

burial´place of the Yaquina Bay Indiansa small band of fish´eating

people who had lived near this point on the coast for ages。  They

were a robust lot察of tall and well´shaped figures察and were called

in the Chinook tongue ;salt chuck察─which means fish´eaters察or

eaters of food from the salt water。  Many of the young men and women

were handsome in feature below the forehead察having fine eyes

aquiline noses and good mouths察but察in conformity with a long´

standing custom察all had flat heads察which gave them a distorted and

hideous appearance察particularly some of the women察who went to the

extreme of fashion and flattened the head to the rear in a sharp

horizontal ridge by confining it between two boards察one running back

from the forehead at an angle of about forty degrees察and the other

up perpendicularly from the back of the neck。  When a head had been

shaped artistically the dusky maiden owner was marked as a belle察and

one could become reconciled to it after a time察but when carelessness

and neglect had governed in the adjustment of the boards察there

probably was nothing in the form of a human being on the face of the

earth that appeared so ugly。



It was the mortuary ground of these Indians that occupied the only

level spot we could get for the block´house。  Their dead were buried

in canoes察which rested in the crotches of forked sticks a few feet

above´ground。  The graveyard was not large察containing probably from

forty to fifty canoes in a fair state of preservation。  According to

the custom of all Indian tribes on the Pacific coast察when one

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