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after; a message from Mr。  T; in answer to a card I had sent up to the house as soon as the household gave signs of being astirinvited us to breakfast; and about half…past nine we presented ourselves at his hospitable door。 The reception I met with was exactly what the gentlemen who had given me the letter of introduction had led me to expect; and so eager did Mr。 T seem to make us comfortable; that I did not dare to tell him how we had been prowling about his house the greater part of the previous night; lest he should knock me down on the spot for not having knocked him up。 The appearance of the inside of the house quite corresponded with what we had anticipated from the soigne air of everything about its exterior。 Books; maps; pictures; a number of astronomical instruments; geological specimens; and a magnificent assortment of fishing…rods; betrayed the habits of the practical; well…educated; business…loving English gentlemen who inhabited it; and as he showed me the various articles of interest in his study; most heartily did I congratulate myself on the lucky chance which had brought me into contact with so desirable an acquaintance。

All this time we had seen nothing of the lady of the house; and I was just beginning to speculate as to whether that crowning ornament could be wanting to this pleasant home; when the door at the further end of the room suddenly opened; and there glided out into the sunshine〃The White Lady of Avenel。〃 A fairer apparition I have seldom seen;stately; pale; and fragile as a lilyblond hair; that rippled round a forehead of ivorya cheek of waxen purity on which the fitful colour went and camenot with the flush of southern blood; or flower…bloom of English beauty;but rather with a cool radiance; as of 〃northern streamers〃 on the snows of her native hills; eyes of a dusky blue; and lips of that rare tint which lines the conch…shell。 Such was the Chatelaine of Kaafiord;as perfect a type of Norse beauty as ever my Saga lore had conjured up! Frithiof's Ingeborg herself seemed to stand before me。 A few minutes afterwards; two little fair…haired maidens; like twin snowdrops; stole into the room; and the sweet home picture was complete。

The rest of the day has been a continued fete。 In vain after having transacted my business; I pleaded the turning of the tide; and our anxiety to get away to sea; nothing would serve our kind entertainer but that we should stay to dinner; and his was one of those strong energetic wills it is difficult to resist。

In the afternoon; the Hammerfest steamer called in from the southward; and by her came two fair sisters of our hostess from their father's home in one of the Loffodens which overlook the famous Maelstrom。 The stories about the violence of the whirlpool Mr。 T assures me are ridiculously exaggerated。 On ordinary occasions the site of the supposed vortex is perfectly unruffled; and it is only when a strong weather tide is running that any unusual movements in the water can be observed; even then the disturbance does not amount to much more than a rather troublesome race。 〃Often and often; when she was a girl; had his wife and her sisters sailed over its fabulous crater in an open boat。〃 But in this wild romantic country; with its sparse population; rugged mountains; and gloomy fiords; very ordinary matters become invested with a character of awe and mystery quite foreign to the atmosphere of our own matter…of…fact world; and many of the Norwegians are as prone to superstition as the poor little Lapp pagans who dwell among them。

No later than a few years ago; in the very fiord we had passed on our way to Alten; when an unfortunate boat got cast away during the night on some rocks at a little distance from the shore; the inhabitants; startled by the cries of distress which reached them in the morning twilight; hurried down in a body to the sea…side;not to afford assistance;but to open a volley of musketry on the drowning mariners; being fully persuaded that the stranded boat; with its torn sails; was no other than the Kracken or Great Sea…Serpent flapping its dusky wings: and when; at last; one of the crew succeeded in swimming ashore in spite of waves and bullets;the whole society turned and fled!

And now; again good…bye。 We are just going up to dine with Mr。 T; and after dinner; or at least as soon as the tide turns; we get under wayNorthward Ho! (as Mr。 Kingsley would say) in right good earnest this time!


LETTER XI。

WE SAIL FOR BEAR ISLAND; AND SPITZBERGENCHERIE ISLAND BARENTZ…SIR HUGH WILLOUGHBYPARRY'S ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLEAGAIN AMONGST THE ICEICEBLINKFIRST SIGHT OF SPITZBERGENWILSONDECAY OF OUR HOPESCONSTANT STRUGGLE WITH THE ICEWE REACH THE 80 DEGREES N。 LAT。A FREER SEAWE LAND IN SPITZBERGENENGLISH BAYLADY EDITH'S GLACIERA MIDNIGHT PHOTOGRAPHNO REINDEER TO BE SEENET EGO IN ARCTISWINTER IN SPITZBERGEN PTARMIGANTHE BEAR…SAGATHE 〃FOAM〃 MONUMENT SOUTHWARDSSIGHT THE GREENLAND ICEA GALEWILSON ON THE MAELSTROMBREAKERS AHEADROOSTTAKING A SIGHT THRONDHJEM。

Throndhjem; Aug。 22nd; 1856。

We have won our laurels; after all! We have landed in Spitzbergenalmost at its most northern extremity; and the little 〃Foam〃 has sailed to within 630 miles of the Pole; that is to say; within 100 miles as far north as any ship has ever succeeded in getting。

I think my last letter left us enjoying the pleasant hospitalities of Kaafiord。

The genial quiet of that last evening in Norway was certainly a strange preface to the scenes we have since witnessed。 So warm was it; that when dinner was over; we all went out into the garden; and had tea in the open air; the ladies without either bonnets or shawls; merely plucking a little branch of willow to brush away the mosquitoes; and so the evening wore away in alternate intervals of chat and song。 At midnight; seawards again began to swirl the tide; and we rose to go;not without having first paid a visit to the room where the little daughters of the house lay folded in sleep。 Then descending to the beach; laden with flowers and kind wishes waved to us by white handkerchiefs held in still whiter hands; we rowed on board; up went the napping sails; and dipping her ensign in token of adieuthe schooner glided swiftly on between the walls of rock; until an intervening crag shut out from our sight the friendly group that had come forth to bid us 〃Good speed。〃 In another twenty…four hours we had threaded our way back through the intricate fiords; and leaving Hammerfest three or four miles on the starboard hand; on the evening of the 28th of July; we passed out between the islands of Soroe and Bolsvoe into the open sea。

My intention was to go first to Bear Island; and ascertain for myself in what direction the ice was lying to the southward of Spitzbergen。

Bearor Cherie Island; is a diamond…shaped island; about ten miles long; composed of secondary rocksprincipally sandstone and limestone…lying about 280 miles due north of the North Cape。 It was originally discovered by Barentz; the 9th of June; 1596; on the occasion of his last and fatal voyage。 Already had he commanded two expeditions sent forth by the United Provinces to discover a north…east passage to that dream…landCathay; and each time; after penetrating to the eastward of Nova Zembla; he had been foiled by the impenetrable line of ice。 On this occasion he adopted the bolder and more northerly courses which brought him to Bear Island。 Thence; plunging into the mists of the frozen sea; he ultimately sighted the western mountains of Spitzbergen。 Unable to proceed further in that direction; Barentz retraced his steps; and again passing in sight of Bear Island; proceeded in a south…east direction to Nova Zembla; where his ships got entangled in the ice; and he subsequently perished。

Towards the close of the sixteenth century; in spite of repeated failures; one endeavour after another was made to penetrate to India across these fatal waters。

The first English vessel that sailed on the disastrous quest was the 〃Bona Esperanza。〃 in the last year of King Edward VI。 Her commander was Sir Hugh Willoughby; and we have still extant a copy of the instructions drawn up by Sebastian Cabotthe Grand Pilot of England; for his guidance。 Nothing can be more pious than the spirit in which this ancient document is conceived; expressly enjoining that morning and evening prayers should be offered on board every ship attached to the expedition; and that neither dicing; carding; tabling; nor other devilish deviceswere to be permitted。 Here and there were clauses of a more questionable morality;recommending that natives of strange lands be 〃enticed on board; and made drunk with your beer and wine; for then you shall know the secrets of their hearts。〃 The whole concluding with an exhortation to all on board to take especial heed to the devices of 〃certain creatures; with men's heads; and the tails of fishes; who swim with bows and arrows about the fiords and bays; and live on human flesh。〃

On the 11th of May the ill…starred expedition got under way from Deptford; and saluting the king; who was then lying sick at Greenwich; put to sea。 By the 30th of July the little fleetthree vessels in allhad come up abreast of the Loffoden islands; but a gale coming on; the 〃Esperanza〃 was separa

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