letters from high latitudes-第29节
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Shortly afterwards the fog came on again； and next morning it was blowing very hard from the eastward。 This was the more disagreeable； as it is always very difficult； under the most favourable circumstances； to find one's way into any harbour along this coast； fenced off； as it is； from the ocean by a complicated outwork of lofty islands； which； in their turn； are hemmed in by nests of sunken rock； sown as thick as peas； for miles to seaward。 There are no pilots until you are within the islands； and no longer want them；no lighthouses or beacons of any sort； and all that you have to go by is the shape of the hill…tops； but as； on the clearest day； the outlines of the mountains have about as much variety as the teeth of a saw； and as on a cloudy day； which happens about seven times a week； you see nothing but the line of their dark roots；the unfortunate mariner； who goes poking about for the narrow passage which is to lead him between the islands；at the BACK of one of which a pilot is waiting for him；will； in all probability； have already placed his vessel in a position to render that functionary's further attendance a work of supererogation。 At least； I know it was as much surprise as pleasure that I experienced； when； after having with many misgivings ventured to slip through an opening in the monotonous barricade of mountains； we found it was the right channel to our port。 If the king of all the Goths would only stick up a lighthouse here and there along the edge of his Arctic seaboard； he would save many an honest fellow a heart…ache。
＇Figure： fig…p130。gif＇
I must now finish this long letter。
Hammerfest is scarcely worthy of my wasting paper on it。 When I tell you that it is the most northerly town in Europe； I think I have mentioned its only remarkable characteristic。 It stands on the edge of an enormous sheet of water； completely landlocked by three islands； and consists of a congregation of wooden houses； plastered up against a steep mountain； some of which being built on piles； give the notion of the place having slipped down off the hill half…way into the sea。 Its population is so and so；its chief exports this and that； for all which； see Mr。 Murray's 〃Handbook；〃 where you will find all such matters much more clearly and correctly set down than I am likely to state them。 At all events； it produces milk； creamNOT buttersalad； and bad potatoes； which is what we are most interested in at present。 To think that you should be all revelling this very moment in green…peas and cauliflowers！ I hope you don't forget your grace before dinner。 I will write to you again before setting sail for Spitzbergen。
LETTER IX。
EXTRACT FROM THE 〃MONITEUR〃 OF THE 31ST JULY。
I have received a copy of the 〃Moniteur〃 of the 31st July； containing so graphic an account of the voyage of the 〃Reine Hortense〃 towards Jan Mayen； and of the catastrophe to her tender the 〃Saxon；〃in consequence of which the corvette was compelled to abandon her voyage to the Northward；that I must forward it to you。
（Translation。）
〃Voyage of Discovery along the Banquise； north of Iceland； by 'LA REINE HORTENSE。'
〃It fell to the lot of an officer of the French navy； M。 Jules de Blosseville； to attempt to explore those distant parts； and to shed an interest over them； both by his discoveries and by his tragical and premature end。
In the spring of 1833； on the breaking up of a frost； 'La Lilloise；' under the command of that brave officer； succeeded in passing through the Banquise； nearly up to latitude 69 degrees； and in surveying about thirty leagues of coast to the south of that latitude。 After having returned to her anchorage off the coast of Iceland； he sailed again in July for a second attempt。 From that time nothing has been heard of 'La Lillouse。'
The following year the 'Bordelaise' was sent to look for the 'Lilloise；' but found the whole north of Iceland blocked up by ice…fields； and returned； having been stopped in the latitude of the North Cape。
As a voyage to the Danish colonies on the western coast of Greenland formed part of the scheme of our arctic navigation； we were aware at our departure from Paris； that it was our business to make ourselves well acquainted with the southern part of the ice…field； from Reykjavik to Cape Farewell。 But while we were touching at Peterhead； the principal port for the fitting of vessels destined for the seal fishery； the Prince； and M。 de la Ronciere； Commander of 'La Reine Hortense；' gatheredfrom conversations with the fishermen just returned from their spring expeditionsome important information on the actual state of the ice。 They learnt from them that navigation was completely free this year round the whole of Iceland； that the ice…field resting on Jan Mayen Island； and surrounding it to a distance of about twenty leagues； extended down the south…west along the coast of Greenland； but without blocking up the channel which separates that coast from that of Iceland。 These unhoped…for circumstances opened a new field to our explorations； by allowing us to survey all that part of the Banquise which extends to the north of Iceland； thus forming a continuation to the observations made by the 'Recherche；' and to those which we ourselves intended to make during our voyage to Greenland。 The temptation was too great for the Prince； and Commander de la Ronciere was not a man to allow an opportunity to escape for executing a project which presented itself to him with the character of daring and novelty。
But the difficulties of the enterprise were serious； and of such a nature that no one but a sailor experienced in navigation is capable of appreciating。 The 'Reine Hortense' is a charming pleasure…boat； but she offers very few of the requisites for a long voyage； and she was destitute of all the special equipment indispensable for a long sojourn in the ice。 There was room but for six days' coals； and for three weeks' water： As to the sails； one may say the masts of the corvette are merely for show； and that without steam it would be impossible to reckon on her making any way regularly and uninterruptedly。 Add to this； that she is built of iron；that is to say； an iron sheet of about two centimbtres thick constitutes all her planking；and that her deckdivided into twelve great panels； is so weak that it has been thought incapable of carrying guns proportioned to her tonnage。 Those who have seen the massive vessels of the fishermen of Peterhead； their enormous outside planking； their bracings and fastenings in wood and in iron； and their internal knees and stancheons； may form an idea from such precautionsimposed by long experience of the nature of the dangers that the shockor even the pressure of the icemay cause to a ship in the latitudes that we were going to explore。
The 'Cocyte' had also been placed at the disposal of H。I。H。 Prince Napoleon。 This vessel which arrived at Reykjavik the same day that we did； the 30th of Juneis a steam schooner； with paddles； standing the sea well； carying coals for twelve days； but with a deplorably slow rate of speed。
We found besides at Reykjavik the war transport 'La Perdrix' and two English merchant steamers； the 'Tasmania and the 'Saxon；' freighted by the Admiralty to take to Iceland coals necessary for our voyage to Greenland。 These five vessels； with the frigate 'Artemise；' which performed he duties of guardship； formed the largest squadron which had ever assembled in the harbour of the capital of Iceland。
Unfortunately； these varied and numerous elements had nothing in common； and Commodore de la Ronciere soon saw that extraneous help would afford us no additional security； and； in short； that the 'Refine Bortense' obliged to go fastas her short supplies would not allow long voyages； had to reckon on herself alone。 However； the ＇English＇ captain of the 'Saxon' expressing a great desire to visit these northern parts； and displaying on this subject a sort of national vanity； besides promising an average speed of seven knots an hour； it was decided thatat all events； that vessel should start alone with the 'Refine Hortense；' whose supply of coals it would be able to replenish； in the eventa doubtful one； it is trueof our making the coast of Jan Mayen's Island； and finding a good anchorage。 The 'Reine Hortense' hadby the help of a supplementary load on decka supply of coals for eight days； and immediately on starting； the crew as well as the passengers； were to be put on a measured allowance of water。
A few hours before getting under way； the expedition was completed by the junction of a new companion； quite unexpected。 We found in Reykjavik harbour a yacht belonging to Lord Dufferin。 The Prince； seeing his great desire to visit the neighbourhood of Jan Mayen； offered to take his schooner in tow of the 'Reine Hortense。' It was a fortunate accident for a seeker of maritime adventures； and an hour afterwards； the proposition having been eagerly accepted； the Englishman was attached by two long cables to the stern of our corvette。
On the 7th of July； 1856； at two o'clock in the morning； after a ball given by Commander de Mas on board the 'Artemise；'the 'Reine Hortense；' with the English schooner in tow； left Reykjavik harbour； directing her course
