letters from high latitudes-第2节
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me hereditary; being replaced in the next generation by a ducal coronet; itself to be regilt in its turn with a less sinister lustre by him
〃The State's whole thunder born to wield; And shake alike the senate and the field;〃
who baffled Walpole in the cabinet; and conquered with Marlborough at Ramilies; Oudenarde; and Malplaquet; and; last;how at that present moment; even while we were speaking; the heir to all these noble reminiscences; the young chief of this princely line; had already won; at the age of twenty…nine; by the manly vigour of his intellect and his hereditary independence of character; the confidence of his fellow…countrymen; and a seat at the council board of his sovereign。
Having thus duly indoctrinated Sigurdr with the Sagas of the family; as soon as we had crossed the lake I took him up to the Castle; and acted cicerone to its pictures and heirlooms;the gleaming stands of muskets; whose fire wrought such fatal ruin at Culloden;the portrait of the beautiful Irish girl; twice a Duchess; whom the cunning artist has painted with a sunflower that turns FROM the sun to look at her;Gillespie Grumach himself; as grim and sinister…looking as in life。the trumpets to carry the voice from the hall door to Dunnaquaich;the fair beech avenues; planted by the old Marquis; now looking with their smooth grey boles; and overhanging branches; like the cloisters of an abbey the vale of Esechasan; to which; on the evening before his execution; the Earl wrote such touching verses; the quaint old kitchen…garden; the ruins of the ancient Castle; where worthy Major Dalgetty is said to have passed such uncom… fortable moments;the Celtic cross from lone Iona:all and everything I showed off with as much pride and pleasure; I think; as if they had been my own possessions; and the more so as the Icelander himself evidently sympathised with such Scald…like gossip。
Having thoroughly overrun the woods and lawns of Inverary; we had a game of chess; and went to bed pretty well tired。
The next morning; before breakfast; I went off in a boat to Ardkinglass to see my little cousins; and then returning about twelve; we got a post…chaise; and crossing the boastful Loch Awe in a ferry…boat; reached Oban at nightfall。 Here I had the satisfaction of finding the schooner already arrived; and of being joined by the Doctor; just returned from his fruitless expedition to Holyhead。
LETTER IV。
THROUGH THE SOUNDSSTORNAWAYTHE SETTING UP OF THE FIGURE…HEADFITZ'S FORAYOH WEEL MAY THE BOATIE ROW; THAT WINS THE BAIRNS'S BREADSIR PATRICK SPENS JOINSUP ANCHOR。
Stornaway; Island of Lewis; Hebrides; June 9; 1856。
We reached these Islands of the West the day before yesterday; after a fine run from Oban。
I had intended taking Staffa and Iona on my way; but it came on so thick with heavy weather from the south…west; that to have landed on either island would have been out of the question。 So we bore up under Mull at one in the morning; tore through the Sound at daylight; rounded Ardnamurchan under a double…reefed mainsail at two P。M。; and shot into the Sound of Skye the same evening; leaving the hills of Moidart (one of whose 〃seven naen〃 was an ancestor of your own); and the jaws of the hospitable Loch Hourn; reddening in the stormy sunset。
At Kylakin we were obliged to bring up for the night; but getting under weigh again at daylight; we took a fair wind with us along the east coast of Skye; passed Raasa and Rona; and so across the Minch to Stornaway。
Stornaway is a little fishing…town with a beautiful harbour; from out of which was sailing; as we entered; a fleet of herring…boats; their brown sails gleaming like gold against the dark angry water as they fluttered out to sea; unmindful of the leaden clouds banked up along the west; and all the symptoms of an approaching gale。 The next morning it was upon us; but brought up as we were under the lea of a high rock; the tempest tore harmlessly over our heads; and left us at liberty to make the final preparations for departure。
Fitz; whose talents for discerning where the vegetables; fowls; and pretty ladies of a place were to be found; I had already had occasion to admire; went ashore to forage; while I remained on board to superintend the fixing of our sacred figure…headexecuted in bronze by Marochetti and brought along with me by rail; still warm from the furnace。
For the performance of this solemnity I luckily possessed a functionary equal to the occasion; in the shape of the second cook。 Originally a guardsman; he had beaten his sword into a chisel; and become carpenter; subsequently conceiving a passion for the sea; he turned his attention to the mysteries of the kitchen; and now sails with me in the alternate exercise of his two last professions。 This individual; thus happily combining the chivalry inherent in the profession of arms with the skill of the craftsman and the refinement of the artistto whose person; moreover; a paper cap; white vestments; and the sacrificial knife at his girdle; gave something of a sacerdotal characterI did not consider unfit to raise the ship's guardian image to its appointed place; and after two hours' reverential handiwork; I had the satisfaction of seeing the well…known lovely face; with its golden hair; and smile that might charm all malice from the elements; beaming like a happy omen above our bows。
Shortly afterwards Fitz came alongside; after a most successful foray among the fish…wives。 He was sitting in the stern…sheets; up to his knees in vegetables; with seven elderly hens beside him; and a dissipated…looking cock under his arm; with regard to whose qualifications its late proprietor had volunteered the most satisfactory assurances。 I am also bound to mention; that protruding from his coat…pocket were certain sheets of music; with the name of 〃Alice Louisa;〃 written therein in a remarkably pretty hand; which led me to believe that the Doctor had not entirely confined his energies to the acquisition of hens and vegetables。 The rest of the day was spent in packing away our newly…purchased stores; and making the ship as tidy as circumstances would admit。 I am afraid; however; many a smart yachtsman would have been scandalized at our decks; lumbered up with hen…coops; sacks of coal; and other necessaries; which; like the Queen of Spain's legs; not only ought never to be seen; but must not be supposed even to exist; on board a tip…top craft。
By the evening; the gale; which had been blowing all day; had increased to a perfect hurricane。 At nine o'clock we let go a second anchor; and I confess; as we sat comfortably round the fire in the bright cheerful little cabin; and listened to the wind whistling and shrieking through the cordage; that none of us were sorry to find ourselves in port on such a night; instead of tossing on the wild Atlanticthough we little knew that even then the destroying angel was busy with the fleet of fishing…boats which had put to sea so gallantly on the evening of our arrival。 By morning the neck of the gale was broken; and the sun shone brightly on the white rollers as they chased each other to the shore; but a Queen's ship was steaming into the bay; with sad news of ruin out to seaward;towing behind her; boats; water…logged; or bottom upwards;while a silent crowd of women on the quay were waiting to learn on what homes among them the bolt had fallen。
About twelve o'clock the Glasgow packet came in; and a few minutes afterwards I had the honour of receiving on my quarter…deck a gentleman who seemed a cross between the German student and swell commercial gent。 On his head he wore a queer kind of smoking…cap; with the peak cocked over his left ear; then came a green shooting…jacket; and flashy silk tartan waistcoat; set off by a gold chain; hung about in innumerable festoons;while light trousers and knotty Wellington boots completed his costume; and made the wearer look as little like a seaman as need be。 It appeared; nevertheless; that the individual in question was Mr。 Ebenezer Wyse; my new sailing…master; so I accepted Captain C。's strong recommendation as a set…off against the silk tartan; explained to the new comer the position he was to occupy on board; and gave orders for sailing in an hour。 The multitudinous chain; moreover; so lavishly displayed; turned out to be an ornament of which Mr。 Wyse might well be proud; and the following history of its acquisition reconciled me more than anything else to my Master's unnautical appearance。
Some time ago there was a great demand in Australia for small river steamers; which certain Scotch companies undertook to supply。 The difficulty; however; was to get such fragile tea…kettles across the ocean; five started one after another in murderous succession; and each came to grief before it got half…way to the equator; the sixth alone remained with which to try a last experiment。 Should she arrive; her price would more than compensate the pecuniary loss already sustained; though it could not bring to life the hands sacrificed in the mad speculation; by this time; however; even the proverbial recklessness of the seamen of the port was daunted; and the hearts of two crews had already failed them at the last moment of starting; when my friend of the chain volun