letters from high latitudes-第12节
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lean crisp sheets； blankets； and coverlets complete； at the back； he proceeded to lay out the dinner…table at the tent door with as much decorum as if we were expecting the Archbishop of Canterbury。 All this time the cook； who looked a little pale； and moved； I observed with difficulty； was mysteriously closeted with a spirit…lamp inside a diminutive tent of his own； through the door of which the most delicious whiffs occasionally permeated。 Olaf and his comrades had driven off the horses to their pastures； and Sigurdr and I were deep in a game of chess。 Luckily； the shower； which threatened us a moment； had blown over。 Though now almost nine o'clock P。M。； it was as bright as mid…day； the sky burned like a dome of gold； and silence and deep peace brooded over the fair grass…robed plain； that once had been so fearfully convulsed。
You may be quite sure our dinner went off merrily； the tetanus…afflicted salmon proved excellent； the plover and ptarmigan were done to a turn； the mulligatawny beyond all praise； but； alas！ I regret to add； that hethe artist； by whose skill these triumphs had been achievedhis task accomplished；no longer sustained by the factitious energy resulting from his professional enthusiasm；at last succumbed； and； retiring to the recesses of his tent； like Psyche in the 〃Princess；〃 lay down； 〃and neither spoke nor stirred。〃
After another game or two of chess； a pleasant chat； a gentle stroll； we also turned in； and for the next eight hours perfect silence reigned throughout our little encampment； except when Wilson's sob…like snores shook to their foundation the canvas walls that sheltered him。
When I awokeI do not know at what hour； for from this time we kept no account of day or nightthe white sunlight was streaming into the tent； and the whole landscape was gleaming and glowing in the beauty of one of the hottest summer…days I ever remember。 We breakfasted in our shirt…sleeves； and I was forced to wrap my head in a white handkerchief for fear of the sun。 As we were all a little stiff after our ride； I could not resist the temptation of spending the day where we were； and examining more leisurely the wonderful features of the neighbourhood。 Independently of its natural curiosities； Thingvalla was most interesting to me on account of the historical associations connected with it。 Here； long ago； at a period when feudal despotism was the only government known throughout Europe； free parliaments used to sit in peace； and regulate the affairs of the young Republic； and to this hour the precincts of its Commons House of Parliament are as distinct and unchanged as on the day when the high…hearted fathers of the emigration first consecrated them to the service of a free nation。 By a freak of nature； as the subsiding plain cracked and shivered into twenty thousand fissures； an irregular oval area； of about two hundred feet by fifty； was left almost entirely surrounded by a crevice so deep and broad as to be utterly impassable；at one extremity alone a scanty causeway connected it with the adjoining level； and allowed of access to its interior。 It is true； just at one point the encircling chasm grows so narrow as to be within the possibility of a jump； and an ancient worthy； named Flosi； pursued by his enemies； did actually take it at a fly； but as leaping an inch short would have entailed certain drowning in the bright green waters that sleep forty feet below； you can conceive there was never much danger of this entrance becoming a thoroughfare。 I confess that for one moment； while contemplating the scene of Flosi's exploit； I felt；like a true Briton；an idiotic desire to be able to say that I had done the same； that I survive to write this letter is a proof of my having come subsequently to my senses。
＇Figure： fig…p055。gif with caption as follows： A The Althing。 B The Hill of Laws。 C The place where Flosi jumped。 D Adjacent Chasms。＇
This spot then； erected by nature almost into a fortress； the founders of the Icelandic constitution chose for the meetings of their Thing； ＇Footnote： From thing； to speak。 We have a vestige of the same word in Dingwall； a town of Ross…shire。＇ or Parliament； armed guards defended the entrance； while the grave bonders deliberated in security within： to this day； at the upper end of the place of meeting； may be seen the three hammocks； where sat in state the chiefs and judges of the land。
But those grand old times have long since passed away。 Along the banks of the Oxeraa no longer glisten the tents and booths of the assembled lieges； no longer stalwart berserks guard the narrow entrance to the Althing； ravens alone sit on the sacred Logberg； and the floor of the old Icelandic House of Commons is ignominiously cropped by the sheep of the parson。 For three hundred years did the gallant little Republic maintain its independencethree hundred years of unequalled literary and political vigour。 At last its day of doom drew near。 Like the Scotch nobles in the time of Elizabeth； their own chieftains intrigued against the liberties of the Icelandic people； and in 1261 the island became an appanage of the Norwegian crown。 Yet even then the deed embodying the concession of their independence was drawn up in such haughty terms as to resemble rather the offer of an equal alliance than the renunciation of imperial rights。 Soon； however； the apathy which invariably benumbs the faculties of a people too entirely relieved from the discipline and obligation of self…government； lapped in complete inactivity； moral； political； and intellectual；these once stirring islanders。 On the amalgamation of the three Scandinavian monarchies； at the union of Calmar； the allegiance of the people of Iceland was passively transferred to the Danish crown。 Ever since that time； Danish proconsuls have administered their government； and Danish restrictions have regulated their trade。 The traditions of their ancient autonomy have become as unsubstantial and obsolete as those which record the vanished fame of their poets and historians； and the exploits of their mariners。 It is true； the adoption of the Lutheran religion galvanized for a moment into the semblance of activity the old literary spirit。 A printing…press was introduced as early as 1530； and ever since the sixteenth century many works of merit have been produced from time to time by Icelandic genius。 Shakespeare； Milton； and Pope have been translated into the native tongue； one of the best printed newspapers I have ever seen is now published at Reykjavik； and the Colleges of Copenhagen are adorned by many an illustrious Icelandic scholar； but the glory of the old days is departed； and it is across a wide desolate flat of ignoble annals； as dull and arid as their own lava plains； that the student has to look back upon the glorious drama of Iceland's early history。 As I gazed around on the silent； deserted plain； and paced to and fro along the untrodden grass that now clothed the Althing； I could scarcely believe it had ever been the battle…field where such keen and energetic wits encountered；that the fire…scathed rocks I saw before me were the very same that had once inspired one of the most successful rhetorical appeals ever hazarded in a public assembly。
As an account of the debate to which I allude has been carefully preserved； I may as well give you an abstract of it。 A more characteristic leaf out of the Parliamentary Annals of Iceland you could scarcely have。
In the summer of the year 1000； when Ethelred the Unready ruled in England； and fourteen years after Hugh Capet had succeeded the last Carlovingian on the throne of France；the Icelandic legislature was convened for the consideration of a very important subjectno less important； indeed； than an inquiry into the merits of a new religion lately brought into the country by certain emissaries of Olaf Tryggveson；the first Christian king of Norway；and the same who pulled down London bridge。
The assembly met。 The Norse missionaries were called upon to enunciate to the House the tenets of the faith they were commissioned to disclose； and the debate began。 Great and fierce was the difference of opinion。 The good old Tory party； supported by all the authority of the Odin establishment； were violent in opposition。 The Whigs advocated the new arrangement； and； as the king supported their own views； insisted strongly on the Divine right。 Several liberal members permitted themselves to speak sarcastically of the Valhalla tap； and the ankles of Freya。 The discussion was at its height； when suddenly a fearful peal of subterranean thunder roared around the Althing。 〃Listen！〃 cried an orator of the Pagan party； 〃how angry is Odin that we should even consider the subject of a new religion。 His fires will consume us。〃 To which a ready debater on the other side replied； by 〃begging leave to ask the honourable gentleman；with whom were the gods angry when these rocks were melted？〃pointing to the devastated plain around him。 Taking advantage of so good a hit； the Treasury 〃whips〃 immediately called for a division； and the Christian religion was adopted by a large majority。
The first Christian missionaries who came to Iceland seem to have had a rather peculiar manner of enforcing the truths of the Go
