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no one can form an idea of anything equal to it on shore。  We

were seated on the deck; women and all; in the serenest evening

that can be imagined。  Not a single cloud presented itself to our

view; and the sun himself was the only object which engrossed our

whole attention。  He did indeed set with a majesty which is

incapable of description; with which; while the horizon was yet

blazing with glory; our eyes were called off to the opposite part

to survey the moon; which was then at full; and which in rising

presented us with the second object that this world hath offered

to our vision。  Compared to these the pageantry of theaters; or

splendor of courts; are sights almost below the regard of

children。  We did not return from the deck till late in the

evening; the weather being inexpressibly pleasant; and so warm

that even my old distemper perceived the alteration of the

climate。  There was indeed a swell; but nothing comparable to

what we had felt before; and it affected us on the deck much less

than in the cabin。



Friday。The calm continued till sun…rising; when the wind

likewise arose; but unluckily for us it came from a wrong

quarter; it was S。S。E。; which is that very wind which Juno would

have solicited of Aeolus; had Gneas been in our latitude bound

for Lisbon。



The captain now put on his most melancholy aspect; and resumed

his former opinion that he was bewitched。  He declared with great

solemnity that this was worse and worse; for that a wind directly

in his teeth was worse than no wind at all。  Had we pursued the

course which the wind persuaded us to take we had gone directly

for Newfoundland; if we had not fallen in with Ireland in our

way。  Two ways remained to avoid this; one was to put into a port

of Galicia; the other; to beat to the westward with as little

sail as possible:  and this was our captain's election。



As for us; poor passengers; any port would have been welcome to

us; especially; as not only our fresh provisions; except a great

number of old ducks and fowls; but even our bread was come to an

end; and nothing but sea…biscuit remained; which I could not

chew。  So that now for the first time in my life I saw what it

was to want a bit of bread。



The wind however was not so unkind as we had apprehended; but;

having declined with the sun; it changed at the approach of the

moon; and became again favorable to us; though so gentle that the

next day's observation carried us very little to the southward of

Cape Finisterre。  This evening at six the wind; which had been

very quiet all day; rose very high; and continuing in our favor

drove us seven knots an hour。



This day we saw a sail; the only one; as I heard of; we had seen

in our whole passage through the bay。  I mention this on account

of what appeared to me somewhat extraordinary。  Though she was at

such a distance that I could only perceive she was a ship; the

sailors discovered that she was a snow; bound to a port in Galicia。



Sunday。After prayers; which our good captain read on the deck

with an audible voice; and with but one mistake; of a lion for

Elias; in the second lesson for this day; we found ourselves far

advanced in 42 degrees; and the captain declared we should sup

off Porte。  We had not much wind this day; but; as this was

directly in our favor; we made it up with sail; of which we

crowded all we had。  We went only at the rate of four miles an

hour; but with so uneasy a motion; continuing rolling from side

to side; that I suffered more than I had done in our whole

voyage; my bowels being almost twisted out of my belly。  However;

the day was very serene and bright; and the captain; who was in

high spirits; affirmed he had never passed a pleasanter at sea。



The wind continued so brisk that we ran upward of six knots an

hour the whole night。



Monday。In the morning our captain concluded that he was got

into lat。 40 degrees; and was very little short of the

Burlings; as they are called in the charts。  We came up with them

at five in the afternoon; being the first land we had distinctly

seen since we left Devonshire。  They consist of abundance of

little rocky islands; a little distant from the shore; three of

them only showing themselves above the water。



Here the Portuguese maintain a kind of garrison; if we may allow

it that name。  It consists of malefactors; who are banished

hither for a term; for divers small offensesa policy which they

may have copied from the Egyptians; as we may read in Diodorus

Siculus。  That wise people; to prevent the corruption of good

manners by evil communication; built a town on the Red Sea;

whither they transported a great number of their criminals;

having first set an indelible mark on them; to prevent their

returning and mixing with the sober part of their citizens。

These rocks lie about fifteen leagues northwest of Cape Roxent;

or; as it is commonly called; the Rock of Lisbon; which we passed

early the next morning。  The wind; indeed; would have carried us

thither sooner; but the captain was not in a hurry; as he was to

lose nothing by his delay。



Tuesday。This is a very high mountain; situated on the northern

side of the mouth of the river Tajo; which; rising about Madrid;

in Spain; and soon becoming navigable for small craft; empties

itself; after a long course; into the sea; about four leagues

below Lisbon。



On the summit of the rock stands a hermitage; which is now in the

possession of an Englishman; who was formerly master of a vessel

trading to Lisbon; and; having changed his religion and his

manners; the latter of which; at least; were none of the best;

betook himself to this place; in order to do penance for his

sins。  He is now very old; and hath inhabited this hermitage for

a great number of years; during which he hath received some

countenance from the royal family; and particularly from the

present queen dowager; whose piety refuses no trouble or expense

by which she may make a proselyte; being used to say that the

saving one soul would repay all the endeavors of her life。  Here

we waited for the tide; and had the pleasure of surveying the

face of the country; the soil of which; at this season; exactly

resembles an old brick…kiln; or a field where the green sward is

pared up and set a…burning; or rather a smoking; in little heaps

to manure the land。  This sight will; perhaps; of all others;

make an Englishman proud of; and pleased with; his own country;

which in verdure excels; I believe; every other country。  Another

deficiency here is the want of large trees; nothing above a shrub

being here to be discovered in the circumference of many miles。



At this place we took a pilot on board; who; being the first

Portuguese we spoke to; gave us an instance of that religious

observance which is paid by all nations to their laws; for;

whereas it is here a capital offense to assist any person in

going on shore from a foreign vessel before it hath been

examined; and every person in it viewed by the magistrates of

health; as they are called; this worthy pilot; for a very small

reward; rowed the Portuguese priest to shore at this place;

beyond which he did not dare to advance; and in venturing whither

he had given sufficient testimony of love for his native country。



We did not enter the Tajo till noon; when; after passing several

old castles and other buildings which had greatly the aspect of

ruins; we came to the castle of Bellisle; where we had a full

prospect of Lisbon; and were; indeed; within three miles of it。



Here we were saluted with a gun; which was a signal to pass no

farther till we had complied with certain ceremonies which the

laws of this country require to be observed by all ships which

arrive in this port。  We were obliged then to cast anchor; and

expect the arrival of the officers of the customs; without whose

passport no ship must proceed farther than this place。



Here likewise we received a visit from one of those magistrates

of health before mentioned。  He refused to come on board the ship

till every person in her had been drawn up on deck and personally

viewed by him。  This occasioned some delay on my part; as it was

not the work of a minute to lift me from the cabin to the deck。

The captain thought my particular case might have been excused

from this ceremony; and that it would be abundantly sufficient if

the magistrate; who was obliged afterwards to visit the cabin;

surveyed me there。  But this did not satisfy the magistrate's

strict regard to his duty。  When he was told of my lameness; he

called out; with a voice of authority; 〃Let him be brought up;〃

and his orders were presently complied with。  He was; indeed; a

person of great dignity; as well as of the most exact fidelity in

the discharge of his trust。  Both which are the more admirable as

his salary is less than thirty pounds English per annum。



Before a ship hath been visited by o

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