memoir of fleeming jenkin-第18节
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brought a cornet…a…piston to practice on; having had three weeks'
instructions on that melodious instrument; and if you could hear
the horrid sounds that come! especially at heavy rolls。 When I
hint he is not improving; there comes a confession: 〃I don't feel
quite right yet; you see!〃 But he blows away manfully; and in
self…defence I try to roar the tune louder。
'11:30 P。M。
'Long past Cape St。 Vincent now。 We went within about 400 yards of
the cliffs and light…house in a calm moonlight; with porpoises
springing from the sea; the men crooning long ballads as they lay
idle on the forecastle and the sails flapping uncertain on the
yards。 As we passed; there came a sudden breeze from land; hot and
heavy scented; and now as I write its warm rich flavour contrasts
strongly with the salt air we have been breathing。
'I paced the deck with H…; the second mate; and in the quiet night
drew a confession that he was engaged to be married; and gave him a
world of good advice。 He is a very nice; active; little fellow;
with a broad Scotch tongue and 〃dirty; little rascal〃 appearance。
He had a sad disappointment at starting。 Having been second mate
on the last voyage; when the first mate was discharged; he took
charge of the ELBA all the time she was in port; and of course
looked forward to being chief mate this trip。 Liddell promised him
the post。 He had not authority to do this; and when Newall heard
of it; he appointed another man。 Fancy poor H…having told all the
men and most of all; his sweetheart。 But more remains behind; for
when it came to signing articles; it turned out that O…; the new
first mate; had not a certificate which allowed him to have a
second mate。 Then came rather an affecting scene。 For H… proposed
to sign as chief (he having the necessary higher certificate) but
to act as second for the lower wages。 At first O… would not give
in; but offered to go as second。 But our brave little H… said; no:
〃The owners wished Mr。 O… to be chief mate; and chief mate he
should be。〃 So he carried the day; signed as chief and acts as
second。 Shakespeare and Byron are his favourite books。 I walked
into Byron a little; but can well understand his stirring up a
rough; young sailor's romance。 I lent him WESTWARD HO from the
cabin; but to my astonishment he did not care much for it; he said
it smelt of the shilling railway library; perhaps I had praised it
too highly。 Scott is his standard for novels。 I am very happy to
find good taste by no means confined to gentlemen; H… having no
pretensions to that title。 He is a man after my own heart。
'Then I came down to the cabin and heard young A…'s schemes for the
future。 His highest picture is a commission in the Prince of
Vizianagram's irregular horse。 His eldest brother is tutor to his
Highness's children; and grand vizier; and magistrate; and on his
Highness's household staff; and seems to be one of those Scotch
adventurers one meets with and hears of in queer berths … raising
cavalry; building palaces; and using some petty Eastern king's long
purse with their long Scotch heads。
'Off Bona; June 4。
'I read your letter carefully; leaning back in a Maltese boat to
present the smallest surface of my body to a grilling sun; and
sailing from the ELBA to Cape Hamrah about three miles distant。
How we fried and sighed! At last; we reached land under Fort
Genova; and I was carried ashore pick…a…back; and plucked the first
flower I saw for Annie。 It was a strange scene; far more novel
than I had imagined: the high; steep banks covered with rich;
spicy vegetation of which I hardly knew one plant。 The dwarf palm
with fan…like leaves; growing about two feet high; formed the
staple of the verdure。 As we brushed through them; the gummy
leaves of a cistus stuck to the clothes; and with its small white
flower and yellow heart; stood for our English dog…rose。 In place
of heather; we had myrtle and lentisque with leaves somewhat
similar。 That large bulb with long flat leaves? Do not touch it
if your hands are cut; the Arabs use it as blisters for their
horses。 Is that the same sort? No; take that one up; it is the
bulb of a dwarf palm; each layer of the onion peels off; brown and
netted; like the outside of a cocoa…nut。 It is a clever plant
that; from the leaves we get a vegetable horsehair; … and eat the
bottom of the centre spike。 All the leaves you pull have the same
aromatic scent。 But here a little patch of cleared ground shows
old friends; who seem to cling by abused civilisation:…fine; hardy
thistles; one of them bright yellow; though; … honest; Scotch…
looking; large daisies or gowans; … potatoes here and there;
looking but sickly; and dark sturdy fig…trees looking cool and at
their ease in the burning sun。
'Here we are at Fort Genova; crowning the little point; a small old
building; due to my old Genoese acquaintance who fought and traded
bravely once upon a time。 A broken cannon of theirs forms the
threshold; and through a dark; low arch; we enter upon broad
terraces sloping to the centre; from which rain water may collect
and run into that well。 Large…breeched French troopers lounge
about and are most civil; and the whole party sit down to breakfast
in a little white…washed room; from the door of which the long;
mountain coastline and the sparkling sea show of an impossible blue
through the openings of a white…washed rampart。 I try a sea…egg;
one of those prickly fellows … sea…urchins; they are called
sometimes; the shell is of a lovely purple; and when opened; there
are rays of yellow adhering to the inside; these I eat; but they
are very fishy。
'We are silent and shy of one another; and soon go out to watch
while turbaned; blue…breeched; barelegged Arabs dig holes for the
land telegraph posts on the following principle: one man takes a
pick and bangs lazily at the hard earth; when a little is loosened;
his mate with a small spade lifts it on one side; and DA CAPO。
They have regular features and look quite in place among the palms。
Our English workmen screw the earthenware insulators on the posts;
strain the wire; and order Arabs about by the generic term of
Johnny。 I find W… has nothing for me to do; and that in fact no
one has anything to do。 Some instruments for testing have stuck at
Lyons; some at Cagliari; and nothing can be done … or at any rate;
is done。 I wander about; thinking of you and staring at big; green
grasshoppers … locusts; some people call them … and smelling the
rich brushwood。 There was nothing for a pencil to sketch; and I
soon got tired of this work; though I have paid willingly much
money for far less strange and lovely sights。
'Off Cape Spartivento: June 8。
'At two this morning; we left Cagliari; at five cast anchor here。
I got up and began preparing for the final trial; and shortly
afterwards everyone else of note on board went ashore to make
experiments on the state of the cable; leaving me with the prospect
of beginning to lift at 12 o'clock。 I was not ready by that time;
but the experiments were not concluded and moreover the cable was
found to be imbedded some four or five feet in sand; so that the
boat could not bring off the end。 At three; Messrs。 Liddell; &c。;
came on board in good spirits; having found two wires good or in
such a state as permitted messages to be transmitted freely。 The
boat now went to grapple for the cable some way from shore while
the ELBA towed a small lateen craft which was to take back the
consul to Cagliari some distance on its way。 On our return we
found the boat had been unsuccessful; she was allowed to drop
astern; while we grappled for the cable in the ELBA 'without more
success'。 The coast is a low mountain range covered with brushwood
or heather … pools of water and a sandy beach at their feet。 I
have not yet been ashore; my hands having been very full all day。
'June 9。
'Grappling for the cable outside the bank had been voted too
uncertain; 'and the day was spent in' efforts to pull the cable off
through the sand which has accumulated over it。 By getting the
cable tight on to the boat; and letting the swell pitch her about
till it got slack; and then tightening again with blocks and
pulleys; we managed to get out from the beach towards the ship at
the rate of about twenty yards an hour。 When they had got about
100 yards from shore; we ran round in the ELBA to try and help
them; letting go the anchor in the shallowest possible water; this
was about sunset。 Suddenly someone calls out he sees the cable at
the bottom: there it was sure enough; apparently wriggling about
as the waves rippled。 Great excitement; still greater when we find
our own anchor is foul of it and has been the means of bringing it
to light。 W