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brought a cornet…a…piston to practice on; having had three weeks' 

instructions on that melodious instrument; and if you could hear 

the horrid sounds that come! especially at heavy rolls。  When I 

hint he is not improving; there comes a confession:  〃I don't feel 

quite right yet; you see!〃  But he blows away manfully; and in 

self…defence I try to roar the tune louder。



'11:30 P。M。



'Long past Cape St。 Vincent now。  We went within about 400 yards of 

the cliffs and light…house in a calm moonlight; with porpoises 

springing from the sea; the men crooning long ballads as they lay 

idle on the forecastle and the sails flapping uncertain on the 

yards。  As we passed; there came a sudden breeze from land; hot and 

heavy scented; and now as I write its warm rich flavour contrasts 

strongly with the salt air we have been breathing。



'I paced the deck with H…; the second mate; and in the quiet night 

drew a confession that he was engaged to be married; and gave him a 

world of good advice。  He is a very nice; active; little fellow; 

with a broad Scotch tongue and 〃dirty; little rascal〃 appearance。  

He had a sad disappointment at starting。  Having been second mate 

on the last voyage; when the first mate was discharged; he took 

charge of the ELBA all the time she was in port; and of course 

looked forward to being chief mate this trip。  Liddell promised him 

the post。  He had not authority to do this; and when Newall heard 

of it; he appointed another man。  Fancy poor H…having told all the 

men and most of all; his sweetheart。  But more remains behind; for 

when it came to signing articles; it turned out that O…; the new 

first mate; had not a certificate which allowed him to have a 

second mate。  Then came rather an affecting scene。  For H… proposed 

to sign as chief (he having the necessary higher certificate) but 

to act as second for the lower wages。  At first O… would not give 

in; but offered to go as second。  But our brave little H… said; no:  

〃The owners wished Mr。 O… to be chief mate; and chief mate he 

should be。〃  So he carried the day; signed as chief and acts as 

second。  Shakespeare and Byron are his favourite books。  I walked 

into Byron a little; but can well understand his stirring up a 

rough; young sailor's romance。  I lent him WESTWARD HO from the 

cabin; but to my astonishment he did not care much for it; he said 

it smelt of the shilling railway library; perhaps I had praised it 

too highly。  Scott is his standard for novels。  I am very happy to 

find good taste by no means confined to gentlemen; H… having no 

pretensions to that title。  He is a man after my own heart。



'Then I came down to the cabin and heard young A…'s schemes for the 

future。  His highest picture is a commission in the Prince of 

Vizianagram's irregular horse。  His eldest brother is tutor to his 

Highness's children; and grand vizier; and magistrate; and on his 

Highness's household staff; and seems to be one of those Scotch 

adventurers one meets with and hears of in queer berths … raising 

cavalry; building palaces; and using some petty Eastern king's long 

purse with their long Scotch heads。



'Off Bona; June 4。



'I read your letter carefully; leaning back in a Maltese boat to 

present the smallest surface of my body to a grilling sun; and 

sailing from the ELBA to Cape Hamrah about three miles distant。  

How we fried and sighed!  At last; we reached land under Fort 

Genova; and I was carried ashore pick…a…back; and plucked the first 

flower I saw for Annie。  It was a strange scene; far more novel 

than I had imagined:  the high; steep banks covered with rich; 

spicy vegetation of which I hardly knew one plant。  The dwarf palm 

with fan…like leaves; growing about two feet high; formed the 

staple of the verdure。  As we brushed through them; the gummy 

leaves of a cistus stuck to the clothes; and with its small white 

flower and yellow heart; stood for our English dog…rose。  In place 

of heather; we had myrtle and lentisque with leaves somewhat 

similar。  That large bulb with long flat leaves?  Do not touch it 

if your hands are cut; the Arabs use it as blisters for their 

horses。  Is that the same sort?  No; take that one up; it is the 

bulb of a dwarf palm; each layer of the onion peels off; brown and 

netted; like the outside of a cocoa…nut。  It is a clever plant 

that; from the leaves we get a vegetable horsehair; … and eat the 

bottom of the centre spike。  All the leaves you pull have the same 

aromatic scent。  But here a little patch of cleared ground shows 

old friends; who seem to cling by abused civilisation:…fine; hardy 

thistles; one of them bright yellow; though; … honest; Scotch…

looking; large daisies or gowans; … potatoes here and there; 

looking but sickly; and dark sturdy fig…trees looking cool and at 

their ease in the burning sun。



'Here we are at Fort Genova; crowning the little point; a small old 

building; due to my old Genoese acquaintance who fought and traded 

bravely once upon a time。  A broken cannon of theirs forms the 

threshold; and through a dark; low arch; we enter upon broad 

terraces sloping to the centre; from which rain water may collect 

and run into that well。  Large…breeched French troopers lounge 

about and are most civil; and the whole party sit down to breakfast 

in a little white…washed room; from the door of which the long; 

mountain coastline and the sparkling sea show of an impossible blue 

through the openings of a white…washed rampart。  I try a sea…egg; 

one of those prickly fellows … sea…urchins; they are called 

sometimes; the shell is of a lovely purple; and when opened; there 

are rays of yellow adhering to the inside; these I eat; but they 

are very fishy。



'We are silent and shy of one another; and soon go out to watch 

while turbaned; blue…breeched; barelegged Arabs dig holes for the 

land telegraph posts on the following principle:  one man takes a 

pick and bangs lazily at the hard earth; when a little is loosened; 

his mate with a small spade lifts it on one side; and DA CAPO。  

They have regular features and look quite in place among the palms。  

Our English workmen screw the earthenware insulators on the posts; 

strain the wire; and order Arabs about by the generic term of 

Johnny。  I find W… has nothing for me to do; and that in fact no 

one has anything to do。  Some instruments for testing have stuck at 

Lyons; some at Cagliari; and nothing can be done … or at any rate; 

is done。  I wander about; thinking of you and staring at big; green 

grasshoppers … locusts; some people call them … and smelling the 

rich brushwood。  There was nothing for a pencil to sketch; and I 

soon got tired of this work; though I have paid willingly much 

money for far less strange and lovely sights。



'Off Cape Spartivento:  June 8。



'At two this morning; we left Cagliari; at five cast anchor here。  

I got up and began preparing for the final trial; and shortly 

afterwards everyone else of note on board went ashore to make 

experiments on the state of the cable; leaving me with the prospect 

of beginning to lift at 12 o'clock。  I was not ready by that time; 

but the experiments were not concluded and moreover the cable was 

found to be imbedded some four or five feet in sand; so that the 

boat could not bring off the end。  At three; Messrs。 Liddell; &c。; 

came on board in good spirits; having found two wires good or in 

such a state as permitted messages to be transmitted freely。  The 

boat now went to grapple for the cable some way from shore while 

the ELBA towed a small lateen craft which was to take back the 

consul to Cagliari some distance on its way。  On our return we 

found the boat had been unsuccessful; she was allowed to drop 

astern; while we grappled for the cable in the ELBA 'without more 

success'。  The coast is a low mountain range covered with brushwood 

or heather … pools of water and a sandy beach at their feet。  I 

have not yet been ashore; my hands having been very full all day。



'June 9。



'Grappling for the cable outside the bank had been voted too 

uncertain; 'and the day was spent in' efforts to pull the cable off 

through the sand which has accumulated over it。  By getting the 

cable tight on to the boat; and letting the swell pitch her about 

till it got slack; and then tightening again with blocks and 

pulleys; we managed to get out from the beach towards the ship at 

the rate of about twenty yards an hour。  When they had got about 

100 yards from shore; we ran round in the ELBA to try and help 

them; letting go the anchor in the shallowest possible water; this 

was about sunset。  Suddenly someone calls out he sees the cable at 

the bottom:  there it was sure enough; apparently wriggling about 

as the waves rippled。  Great excitement; still greater when we find 

our own anchor is foul of it and has been the means of bringing it 

to light。  W

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