the malay archipelago-2-第44节
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of Australian birds and insects are entirely absent。 Contrast this with the British Islands； in； which a large proportion of the plants； insects； reptiles； and Mammalia of the adjacent parts of the continent are fully represented； while there are no remarkable deficiencies of extensive groups； such as always occur when there is reason to believe there has been no such connexion。 The case of Sumatra； Borneo； and Java； and the Asiatic continent is equally clear； many large Mammalia； terrestrial birds； and reptiles being common to all； while a large number more are of closely allied forms。 Now； geology has taught us that this representation by allied forms in the same locality implies lapse of time； and we therefore infer that in Great Britain； where almost every species is absolutely identical with those on the Continent； the separation has been very recent； while in Sumatra and Java； where a considerable number of the continental species are represented by allied forms； the separation was more remote。
From these examples we may see how important a supplement to geological evidence is the study of the geographical distribution of animals and plants； in determining the former condition of the earth's surface； and how impossible it is to understand the former without taking the latter into account。 The productions of the Aru Islands offer the strangest evidence； that at no very distant epoch they formed a part of New Guinea； and the peculiar physical features which I have described； indicate that they must have stood at very nearly the same level then as they do now； having been separated by the subsidence of the great plain which formerly connected them with it。
Persons who have formed the usual ideas of the vegetation of the tropics who picture to themselves the abundance and brilliancy of the flowers； and the magnificent appearance of hundreds of forest trees covered with masses of coloured blossoms； will be surprised to hear； that though vegetation in Aru is highly luxuriant and varied； and would afford abundance of fine and curious plants to adorn our hothouses； yet bright and showy flowers are； as a general rule； altogether absent； or so very scarce as to produce no effect whatever on the general scenery。 To give particulars： I have visited five distinct localities in the islands； I have wandered daily in the forests； and have passed along upwards of a hundred miles of coast and river during a period of six months； much of it very fine weather； and till just as I was about to leave； I never saw a single plant of striking brilliancy or beauty； hardly a shrub equal to a hawthorn； or a climber equal to a honeysuckle！ It cannot be said that the flowering season had not arrived； for I saw many herbs； shrubs； and forest trees in flower； but all had blossoms of a green or greenish…white tint； not superior to our lime…trees。 Here and there on the river banks and coasts are a few Convolvulaceae； not equal to our garden Ipomaeas； and in the deepest shades of the forest some fine scarlet and purple Zingiberaceae； but so few and scattered as to be nothing amid the mass of green and flowerless vegetation。 Yet the noble Cycadaceae and screw…pines； thirty or forty feet high； the elegant tree ferns； the lofty palms； and the variety of beautiful and curious plants which everywhere meet the eye； attest the warmth and moisture of the tropics； and the fertility of the soil。
It is true that Aru seemed to me exceptionally poor in flowers； but this is only an exaggeration of a general tropical feature； for my whole experience in the equatorial regions of the west and the east has convinced me； that in the most luxuriant parts of the tropics； flowers are less abundant； on the average less showy； and are far less effective in adding colour to the landscape than in temperate climates。 I have never seen in the tropics such brilliant masses of colour as even England can show in her furze…clad commons； her heathery mountain…sides； her glades of wild hyacinths； her fields of poppies； her meadows of buttercups and orchisescarpets of yellow； purple； azure…blue； and fiery crimson； which the tropics can rarely exhibit。 We； have smaller masses of colour in our hawthorn and crab trees； our holly and mountain…ash； our boom； foxgloves； primroses； and purple vetches； which clothe with gay colours the whole length and breadth of our land； These beauties are all common。 They are characteristic of the country and the climate； they have not to be sought for； but they gladden the eye at every step。 In the regions of the equator； on the other hand； whether it be forest or savannah； a sombre green clothes universal nature。 You may journey for hours； and even for days； and meet with nothing to break the monotony。 Flowers are everywhere rare； and anything at all striking is only to be met with at very distant intervals。
The idea that nature exhibits gay colours in the tropics； and that the general aspect of nature is there more bright and varied in hue than with us； has even been made the foundation of theories of art； and we have been forbidden to use bright colours in our garments； and in the decorations of our dwellings； because it was supposed that we should be thereby acting in opposition to the teachings of nature。 The argument itself is a very poor one； since it might with equal justice be maintained； that as we possess faculties for the appreciation of colours； we should make up for the deficiencies of nature and use the gayest tints in those regions where the landscape is most monotonous。 But the assumption on which the argument is founded is totally false； so that even if the reasoning were valid； we need not be afraid of outraging nature； by decorating our houses and our persons with all those gay hues which are so lavishly spread over our fields and mountains； our hedges； woods； and meadows。
It is very easy to see what has led to this erroneous view of the nature of tropical vegetation。 In our hothouses and at our flower…shows we gather together the finest flowering plants from the most distant regions of the earth； and exhibit them in a proximity to each other which never occurs in nature。 A hundred distinct plants； all with bright； or strange； or gorgeous flowers； make a wonderful show when brought together； but perhaps no two of these plants could ever be seen together in a state of nature； each inhabiting a distant region or a different station。 Again； all moderately warm extra…European countries are mixed up with the tropics in general estimation； and a vague idea is formed that whatever is preeminently beautiful must come from the hottest parts of the earth。 But the fact is quite the contrary。 Rhododendrons and azaleas are plants of temperate regions； the grandest lilies are from temperate Japan； and a large proportion of our most showy flowering plants are natives of the Himalayas； of the Cape； of the United States； of Chili； or of China and Japan； all temperate regions。 True； there are a great number of grand and gorgeous flowers in the tropics； but the proportion they bear to the mass of the vegetation is exceedingly small； so that what appears an anomaly is nevertheless a fact； and the effect of flowers on the general aspect of nature is far less in the equatorial than in the temperate regions of the earth。
CHAPTER XXXIV。
NEW GUINEA。DOREY；
（MARCH TO JULY 1858。）
AFTER my return from Gilolo to Ternate； in March 1858； I made arrangements for my long…wished…for voyage to the mainland of New Guinea； where I anticipated that my collections would surpass those which I had formed at the Aru Islands。 The poverty of Ternate in articles used by Europeans was shown； by my searching in vain through all the stores for such common things as flour； metal spoons； wide…mouthed phials； beeswax； a penknife； and a stone or metal pestle and mortar。 I took with me four servants： my head man Ali； and a Ternate lad named Jumaat （Friday）； to shoot； Lahagi； a steady middle…aged man； to cut timber and assist me in insect…collecting； and Loisa； a Javanese cook。 As I knew I should have to build a house at Dorey； where I was going； I took with me eighty cadjans； or waterproof mats； made of pandanus leaves； to cover over my baggage on first landing； and to help to roof my house afterwards。
We started on the 25th of March in the schooner Hester Helena； belonging to my friend Mr。 Duivenboden； and bound on a trading voyage along the north coast of New Guinea。 Having calms and light airs； we were three days reaching Gane； near the south end of Gilolo； where we stayed to fill。 up our water…casks and buy a few provisions。 We obtained fowls； eggs； sago； plantains； sweet potatoes； yellow pumpkins； chilies； fish； and dried deer's meat； and on the afternoon of the 29th proceeded on our voyage to Dorey harbour。 We found it； however； by no means easy to get along； for so near to the equator the monsoons entirely fail of their regularity； and after passing the southern point of Gilolo we had calms； light puffs of wind； and contrary currents； which kept us for five days in sight of the same islands between it and Poppa。 A squall them brought us on to the entrance of Dampier's Straits； where we were again becalmed； and were three more days creeping through them。 Several native c
