the malay archipelago-2-第3节

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ach　time　insisted　upon　his　immediately　mending　the　roof　according　to　contract；　all　the　answer　I　could　get　was；　〃Ea　nanti；〃　（Yes；　wait　a　little。）　However；　when　I　threatened　to　deduct　a　quarter　guilder　from　the　rent　for　every　day　it　was　not　done；　and　a　guilder　extra　if　any　of　my　things　were　wetted；　he　condescended　to　work　for　half　an　hour；　which　did　all　that　was　absolutely　necessary。

On　the　top　of　a　bank；　of　about　a　hundred　feet　ascent　from　the　water；　stands　the　very　small　but　substantial　fort　erected　by　the　Portuguese。　Its　battlements　and　turrets　have　long　since　been　overthrown　by　earthquakes；　by　which　its　massive　structure　has　also　been　rent；　but　it　cannot　well　be　thrown　down；　being　a　solid　mass　of　stonework；　forming　a　platform　about　ten　feet　high；　and　perhaps　forty　feet　square。　It　is　approached　by　narrow　steps　under　an　archway；　and　is　now　surmounted　by　a　row　of　thatched　hovels；　in　which　live　the　small　garrison；　consisting　of；　a　Dutch　corporal　and　four　Javanese　soldiers；　the　sole　representatives　of　the　Netherlands　Government　in　the　island。　The　village　is　occupied　entirely　by　Ternate　men。　The　true　indigenes　of　Gilolo；　〃Alfuros〃　as　they　are　here　called；　live　on　the　eastern　coast；　or　in　the　interior　of　the　northern　peninsula。　The　distance　across　the　isthmus　at　this　place　is　only　two　miles；　and　there；　is　a　good　path；　along　which　rice　and　sago　are　brought　from　the　eastern　villages。　The　whole　isthmus　is　very　rugged；　though　not　high；　being　a　succession　of　little　abrupt　hills　anal　valleys；　with　angular　masses　of　limestone　rock　everywhere　projecting；　and　often　almost　blocking　up　the　pathway。　Most　of　it　is　virgin　forest；　very　luxuriant　and　picturesque；　and　at　this　time　having　abundance　of　large　scarlet　Ixoras　in　flower；　which　made　it　exceptionally　gay。　I　got　some　very　nice　insects　here；　though；　owing　to　illness　most　of　the　time；　my　collection　was　a　small　one；　and　my　boy　Ali　shot　me　a　pair　of　one　of　the　most　beautiful　birds　of　the　East；　Pitta　gigas；　a　lame　ground…thrush；　whose　plumage　of　velvety　black　above　is　relieved　by　a　breast　of　pure　white；　shoulders　of　azure　blue；　and　belly　of　vivid　crimson。　It　has　very　long　and　strong　legs；　and　hops　about　with　such　activity　in　the　dense　tangled　forest；　bristling　with　rocks；　as　to　make　it　very　difficult　to　shoot。

In　September　1858；　after　my　return　from　New　Guinea；　I　went　to　stay　some　time　at　the　village　of　Djilolo；　situated　in　a　bay　on　the　northern　peninsula。　Here　I　obtained　a　house　through　the　kindness　of　the　Resident　of　Ternate；　who　sent　orders　to　prepare　one　for　me。　The　first　walk　into　the　unexplored　forests　of　a　new　locality　is　a　moment　of　intense　interest　to　the　naturalist；　as　it　is　almost　sure　to　furnish　him　with　something　curious　or　hitherto　unknown。　The　first　thing　I　saw　here　was　a　flock　of　small　parroquets；　of　which　I　shot　a　pair；　and　was　pleased　to　find　a　most　beautiful　little　long…tailed　bird；　ornamented　with　green；　red；　and　blue　colours；　and　quite　new　to　me。　It　was　a　variety　of　the　Charmosyna　placentis；　one　of　the　smallest　and　most　elegant　of　the　brush…tongued　lories。　My　hunters　soon　shot　me　several　other　fine　birds；　and　I　myself　found　a　specimen　of　the　rare　and　beautiful　day…flying　moth；　Cocytia　d'Urvillei。

The　village　of　Djilolo　was　formerly　the　chief　residence　of　the　Sultans　of　Ternate；　till　about　eighty　years　ago；　when　at　the　request　of　the　Dutch　they　removed　to　their　present　abode。　The　place　was　then　no　doubt　much　more　populous；　as　is　indicated　by　the　wide　extent　of　cleared　land　in　the　neighbourhood；　now　covered　with　coarse　high　grass；　very　disagreeable　to　walk　through；　and　utterly　barren　to　the　naturalist。　A　few　days'　exploring　showed　me　that　only　some　small　patches　of　forest　remained　for　miles　wound；　and　the　result　was　a　scarcity　of　insects　and　a　very　limited　variety　of　birds；　which　obliged　me　to　change　my　locality。　There　was　another　village　called　Sahoe；　to　which　there　was　a　road　of　about　twelve　miles　overland；　and　this　had　been　recommended　to　me　as　a　good　place　for　birds；　and　as　possessing　a　large　population　both　of　Mahomotans　and　Alfuros；　which　latter　race　I　much　wished　to　see。　I　set　off　one　morning　to　examine　this　place　myself；　expecting　to　pass　through　some　extent　of　forest　on　my　way。　In　this　however　I　was　much　disappointed；　as　the　whole　road　lies　through　grass　and　scrubby　thickets；　and　it　was　only　after　reaching　the　village　of　Sahoe　that　some　high　forest　land　was　perceived　stretching　towards　the　mountains　to　the　north　of　it。　About　half…way　we　dad　to　pass　a　deep　river　on　a　bamboo　raft；　which　almost　sunk　beneath　us。　This　stream　was　said　to　rise　a　long　way　off　to　the　northward。

Although　Sahoe　did　not　at　all　appear　what　I　expected；　I　determined　to　give　it　a　trial；　and　a　few　days　afterwards　obtained　a　boat　to　carry　my　things　by　sea　while　I　walked　overland。　A　large　house　on　the　beach　belonging　to　the　Sultan　was　given　me。　It　stood　alone；　and　was　quite　open　on　every　side；　so　that　little　privacy　could　be　had；　but　as　I　only　intended　to　stay　a　short　time　I　made　it　do。　Avery；　few　days　dispelled　all　hopes　I　might　have　entertained　of　making　good　collections　in　this　place。　Nothing　was　to　be　found　in　every　direction　but　interminable　tracts　of　reedy　grass；　eight　or　ten　feet　high；　traversed　by　narrow　baths；　often　almost　impassable。　Here　and　there　were　clumps　of　fruit　trees；　patches　of　low　wood；　and　abundance　of　plantations　and　rice　grounds；　all　of　which　are；　in　tropical　regions；　a　very　desert　for　the　entomologist。　The　virgin　forest　that　I　was　in　search　of；　existed　only　on　the　summits　and　on　the　steep　rocky　sides　of　the　mountains　a　long　way　off；　and　in　inaccessible　situations。　In　the　suburbs　of　the　village　I　found　a　fair　number　of　bees　and　wasps；　and　some　small　but　interesting　beetles。　Two　or　three　new　birds　were　obtained　by　my　hunters；　and　by　incessant　inquiries　and　promises　í　succeeded　in　getting　the　natives　to　bring　me　some　land　shells；　among　which　was　a　very　fine　and　handsome　one；　Helix　pyrostoma。　I　was；　however；　completely　wasting　my　time　here　compared　with　what　I　might　be　doing　in　a　good　locality；　and　after　a　week　returned　to　Ternate；　quite　disappointed　with　my　first　attempts　at　collecting　in　Gilolo。

In　the　country　round　about　Sahoe；　and　in　the　interior；　there　is　a　large　population　of　indigenes；　numbers　of　whom　came　daily　into　the　village；　bringing　their　produce　for　sale；　while　others　were　engaged　as　labourers　by　the　Chinese　and　Ternate　traders。　A　careful　examination　convinced　me　that　these　people　are　radically　distinct　from　all　the　Malay　races。　Their　stature　and　their　features；　as　well　as　their　disposition　and　habits；　are　almost　the　same　as　those　of　the　Papuans；　their　hair　is　semi…Papuan…neither　straight；　smooth；　and　glossy；　like　all　true　Malays'；　nor　so　frizzly　and　woolly　as　the　perfect　Papuan　type；　but　always　crisp；　waved；　and　rough；　such　as　often　occurs　among　the　true　Papuans；　but　never　among　the　Malays。　Their　colour　alone　is　often　exactly　that　of　the　Malay；　or　even　lighter。　Of　course　there　has　been　intermixture；　and　there　occur　occasionally　individuals　which　it　is　difficult　to　classify；　but　in　most　cases　the　large；　somewhat　aquiline　nose；　with　elongated　apex；　the　tall　stature；　the　waved　hair；　the　bearded　face；　and　hairy　body；　as　well　as　the　less　reserved　manner　and　louder　voice；　unmistakeably　proclaim　the　Papuan　type。　Here　then　I　had　discovered　the　exact　boundary　lice　between　the　Malay　and　Papuan　races；　and　at　a　spot　where　no　other　writer　had　expected　it。　I　was　very　much　pleased　at　this　determination；　as　it　gave　me　a　clue　to　one　of　the　most　difficult　problems　in　Ethnology；　and　enabled　me　in　many　other　places　to　separate　the　two　races；　and　to　unravel　their　intermixtures。

On　my　return　from　Waigiou　in　1860；　I　stayed　some　days　on　the　southern　extremity　of　Gilolo；　but；　beyond　seeing　something　more　of　its　structure　and　general　character；　obtained　very　little　additional　information。　It　is　only　in　the　northern　peninsula　that　there　are　any　indígenes；　the　whole　of　the　rest　of　the　island；　with　Batchian　and　the　other　islands　westward；　being　exclusively　inhabited　by　Malay　tribes；　allied　to　those　of　Ternate　and　Tidore。　This　would　seem　to　indicate　that　the　Alfuros　were　a　comparatively　recent　immigration；　and　that　they　lead　come　from　the　north　or　east；　perhaps　from　some　of　the　islands　of　the　Pacific。　It　is　otherwise　difficult　to　understand　how　so　many　fertile　districts　should　possess　no　true　indigenes。

Gilolo；　or　Halmaheira　as　it　is　called　by　the　Malays　and　Dutch；　seems　to　have　been　recently　modified　by　upheaval　and　subsidence。　In　1673；　a　mountain　is　said　to　stave　been　upheaved　at　Gamokonora　on　the　northern　peninsula。　All　the　parts　that　I　have　seen　have　either　been　volcanic　or　coralline；　and　along　the　coast　there　are　fringing　coral　reefs　very　dangerous　to　navigation。　At　the　same　time；　the　character　of　its　natural　history　proves　it　to　be　a　rather　ancient　land；　since　it　possesses　a　number　of　animals　peculiar　to　itself　or　common　to　the　small　islands　around　it；　but　almost　always　distinct　from　those　of　New　Guinea　on　the　east；　of　Ceram　on　the　south；　and　of　Celebes　and　the　Sula　islands　on　the　west。

The　island　of　Morty；　close　to　the　north…eastern　extremity　of　Gilolo；　was　visited　by　my　assistant　Charles　Allen；　as　well　as　by　Dr。　Bernstein；　and　the　collections　obtained　there　present　some　curiou