the malay archipelago-2-第13节

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hasty　roof　just　as　the　rain　commenced。　The　baggage　was　covered　over　with　leaves；　and　the　men　sheltered　themselves　as　they　could　till　the　storm　was　over；　by　which　time　a　flood　came　down　the　river；　which　effectually　stopped　our　further　march；　even　had　we　wished　to　proceed。　We　then　lighted　fires；　I　made　some　coffee；　and　my　men　roasted　their　fish　and　plantains；　and　as　soon　as　it　was　dark；　we　made　ourselves　comfortable　for　the　night。

Starting　at　six　the　next　morning；　we　had　three　hours　of　the　same　kind　of　walking；　during　which　we　crossed　the　river　at　least　thirty　or　forty　times；　the　water　being　generally　knee…deep。　This　brought　us　to　a　place　where　the　road　left　the　stream；　and　here　we　stopped　to　breakfast。　We　then　had　a　long　walk　over　the　mountain；　by　a　tolerable　path；　which　reached　an　elevation　of　about　fifteen　hundred　feet　above　the　sea。　Here　I　noticed　one　of　the　smallest　and　most　elegant　tree　ferns　I　had　ever　seen；　the　stem　being　scarcely　thicker　than　my　thumb；　yet　reaching　a　height　of　fifteen　or　twenty　feet。　I　also　caught　a　new　butterfly　of　the　genus　Pieris；　and　a　magnificent　female　specimen　of　Papilio　gambrisius；　of　which　I　had　hitherto　only　found　the　males；　which　are　smaller　and　very　different　in　colour。　Descending　the　other　side　of　the　ridge；　by　a　very　steep　path；　we　reached　another　river　at　a　spot　which　is　about　the　centre　of　the　island；　and　which　was　to　be　our　resting　place　for　two　or　three　days。　In　a　couple　of　hour　my　men　had　built　a　little　sleeping…shed　for　me；　about　eight　feet　by　four；　with　a　bench　of　split　poles；　they　themselves　occupying　two　or　three　smaller　ones；　which　had　been　put　up　by　former　passengers。

The　river　here　was　about　twenty　yards　wide；　running　over　a　pebbly　and　sometimes　a　rocky　bed；　and　bordered　by　steep　hills　with　occasionally　flat　swampy　spots　between　their　base　and　the　stream。　The　whole　country　was　one　dense；　Unbroken；　and　very　damp　and　gloomy　virgin　forest。　Just　at　our　resting…place　there　was　a　little　bush…covered　island　in　the　middle　of　the　channel；　so　that　the　opening　in　the　forest　made　by　the　river　was　wider　than　usual；　and　allowed　a　few　gleams　of　sunshine　to　penetrate。　Here　there　were　several　handsome　butterflies　flying　about；　the　finest　of　which；　however；　escaped　me；　and　I　never　saw　it　again　during　my　stay。　In　the　two　days　and　a　half　which　we　remained　here；　I　wandered　almost　all　day　up　and　down　the　stream；　searching　after　butterflies；　of　which　I　got；　in　all；　fifty　or　sixty　specimens；　with　several　species　quite　new　to　me。　There　were　many　others　which　I　saw　only　once；　and　did　not　capture；　causing　me　to　regret　that　there　was　no　village　in　these　interior　valleys　where　I　could　stay　a　month。　In　the　early　part　of　each　morning　I　went　out　with　my　gun　in　search　of　birds；　and　two　of　my　men　were　out　almost　all　day　after　deer；　but　we　were　all　equally　unsuccessful；　getting　absolutely　nothing　the　whole　time　we　were　in　the　forest。　The　only　good　bird　seen　was　the　fine　Amboyna　lory；　but　these　were　always　too　high　to　shoot；　besides　this；　the　great　Moluccan　hornbill；　which　I　did　not　want；　was　almost　the　only　bird　met　with。　I　saw　not　a　single　ground…thrush；　or　kingfisher；　or　pigeon；　and；　in　fact；　have　never　been　in　a　forest　so　utterly　desert　of　animal　life　as　this　appeared　to　be。　Even　in　all　other　groups　of　insects；　except　butterflies；　there　was　the　same　poverty。　I　bad　hoped　to　find　some　rare　tiger　beetles；　as　I　had　done　in　similar　situations　in　Celebes；　but；　though　I　searched　closely　in　forest；　river…bed；　and　mountain…brook；　I　could　find　nothing　but　the　two　common　Amboyna　species。　Other　beetles　there　were　absolutely　none。

The　constant　walking　in　water；　and　over　rocks　and　pebbles；　quite　destroyed　the　two　pair　of　shoes　I　brought　with　me；　so　that；　on　my　return；　they　actually　fell　to　pieces；　and　the　last　day　I　had　to　walk　in　my　stockings　very　painfully；　and　reached　home　quite　lame。　On　our　way　back　from　Makariki；　as　on　our　way　there；　we　had　storm　and　rain　at　sea；　and　we　arrived　at　Awaiya　late　in　the　evening；　with　all　our　baggage　drenched；　and　ourselves　thoroughly　uncomfortable。　All　the　time　I　had　been　in　Ceram　I　had　suffered　much　from　the　irritating　bites　of　an　invisible　acarus；　which　is　worse　than　mosquitoes；　ants；　and　every　other　pest；　because　it　is　impossible　to　guard　against　them。　This　last　journey　in　the　forest　left　me　covered　from　head　to　foot　with　inflamed　lumps；　which；　after　my　return　to　Amboyna；　produced　a　serious　disease；　confining　me　to　the　house　for　nearly　two　months；　a　not　very　pleasant　memento　of　my　first　visit　to　Ceram；　which　terminated　with　the　year　1859。

It　was　not　till　the　24th　of　February；　1860；　that　I　started　again；　intending　to　pass　from　village　to　village　along　the　coast；　staying　where　I　found　a　suitable　locality。　I　had　a　letter　from　the　Governor　of　the　Moluccas；　requesting　all　the　chiefs　to　supply　me　with　boats　and　men　to　carry　me　on　my　journey。　The　first　boat　took　me　in　two　days　to　Amahay；　on　the　opposite　side　of　the　bay　to　Awaiya。　The　chief　here；　wonderful　to　relate；　did　not　make　any　excuses　for　delay；　but　immediately　ordered　out　the　boat　which　was　to　carry　me　on；　put　my　baggage　on　hoard；　set　up　mast　and　sails　after　dark；　and　had　the　men　ready　that　nigh；　so　that　we　were　actually　on　our　way　at　five　the　next　morning；a　display　of　energy　and　activity　I　scarcely　ever　saw　before　in　a　native　chief　on　such　an　occasion。　We　touched　at　Cepa；　and　stayed　for　the　night　at　Tamilan；　the　first　two　Mahometan　villages　on　the　south　coast　of　Ceram。　The　next　day；　about　noon；　we　reached　Hoya；　which　was　as　Far　as　my　present　boat　and　crew　were　going　to　take　me。　The　anchorage　is　about　a　mile　east　of　the　village；　which　is　faced　by　coral　reefs；　and　we　had　to　wait　for　the　evening　tide　to　move　up　and　unload　the　boat　into　the　strange　rotten　wooden　pavilion　kept　for　visitors。

There　was　no　boat　here　large　enough　to　take　my　baggage；　and　although　two　would　have　done　very　well；　the　Rajah　insisted　upon　sending　four。　The　reason　of　this　I　found　was；　that　there　were　four　small　villages　under　his　rule；　and　by　sending　a　boat　from　each　he　would　avoid　the　difficult　task　of　choosing　two　and　letting　off　the　others。　I　was　told　that　at　the　next　village　of　Teluti　there　were　plenty　of　Alfuros；　and　that　I　could　get　abundance　of　Tories　and　other　birds。　The　Rajah　declared　that　black　and　yellow　Tories　and　black　cockatoos　were　found　there；　but　I　am　inclined　to　think　he　knew　very　well　he　was　telling　me　lies；　and　that　it　was　only　a　scheme　to　satisfy　me　with　his　plan　of　taking　me　to　that　village；　instead　of　a　day's　journey　further　on；　as　I　desired。　Here；　as　at　most　of　the　villages；　I　was　asked　for　spirits；　the　people　being　mere　nominal　Mahometans；　who　confine　their　religion　almost　entirely　to　a　disgust　at　pork；　and　a　few　other　forbidden　articles　of　food。　The　next　morning；　after　much　trouble；　we　got　our　cargoes　loaded；　and　had　a　delightful　row　across　the　deep　bay　of　Teluti；　with　a　view　of　the　grand　central　mountain…range　of　Ceram。　Our　four　boats　were　rowed　by　sixty　men；　with　flags　flying　and　tom…toms　beating；　as　well　as　very　vigorous　shouting　and　singing　to　keep　up　their　spirits。　The　sea　way　smooth；　the　morning　bright；　and　the　whole　scene　very　exhilarating。　On　landing；　the　Orang…kaya　and　several　of　the　chief　men；　in　gorgeous　silk　jackets；　were　waiting　to　receive　us；　and　conducted　me　to　a　house　prepared　for　my　reception；　where　I　determined　to　stay　a　few　days；　and　see　if　the　country　round　produced　anything　new。

My　first　inquiries　were　about　the　lories；　but　I　could　get　very　little　satisfactory　information。　The　only　kinds　known　were　the　ring…necked　lory　and　the　common　red　and　green　lorikeet；　both　common　at　Amboyna。　Black　Tories　and　cockatoos　were　quite　unknown。　The　Alfuros　resided　in　the　mountains　five　or　six　days'　journey　away；　and　there　were　only　one　or　two　live　birds　to　be　found　in　the　village；　and　these　were　worthless。　My　hunters　could　get　nothing　but　a　few　common　birds；　and　notwithstanding　fine　mountains；　luxuriant　forests；　and　a　locality　a　hundred　miles　eastward；　I　could　find　no　new　insects；　and　extremely　few　even　of　the　common　species　of　Amboyna　and　West　Ceram。　It　was　evidently　no　use　stopping　at　such　a　place；　and　I　was　determined　to　move　on　as　soon　as　possible。

The　village　of　Teluti　is　populous；　but　straggling　and　very　dirty。　Sago　trees　here　cover　the　mountain　side；　instead　of　growing　as　usual　in　low　swamps；　but　a　closer　examination　shows　that　they　grow　in　swampy　patches；　which　have　formed　among　the　loose　rocks　that　cover　the　ground；　and　which　are　kept　constantly　full　of　moisture　by　the　rains；　and　by　the　abundance　of　rills　which　trickle　down　among　them。　This　sago　forms　almost　the　whole　subsistence　of　the　inhabitants；　who　appear　to　cultivate　nothing　but　a　few　small　patches　of　maize　and　sweet　potatoes。　Hence；　as　before　explained；　the　scarcity　of　insects。　The　Orang…kaya　has　fine　clothes；　handsome　lamps；　and　other　expensive　European　goods；　yet　lives　every　day　on　sago　and　fish　as　miserably　as　the　rest。

After　three　days　in　this　barren　place　I　left　on　the　morning　of　March　6th；　in　two　boats　of　the　same　size　as　those　which　had　brought　me　to　Teluti。　With　some　difficulty　I　had　obtained　permission　to　take　these　boats　on　to　Tobo；　where　I　intended　to　stay　a　while；　and　therefore　got　on　pretty　quickly；　changing　men　at　the　village　of　Laiemu；　and　arrivi