worldly ways and byways-第40节
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for when the de Rham cottage was built and Mrs。 Cleveland opened
her new house at the extreme end of Rough Point (the second summer
residence in the place) it is doubtful if a single tree broke the
rocky monotony of the landscape from the Ocean House to Bateman's
Point。
Governor Lawrence; having sold one acre of his Ochre Point farm to
Mr。 Pendleton for the price he himself had paid for the whole;
proceeded to build a stone wall between the two properties down to
the water's edge。 The population of Newport had been accustomed to
take their Sunday airings and moonlight rambles along 〃the cliffs;〃
and viewed this obstruction of their favorite walk with dismay。 So
strong was their feeling that when the wall was completed the young
men of the town repaired there in the night and tore it down。 It
was rebuilt; the mortar being mixed with broken glass。 This
infuriated the people to such an extent that the whole populace; in
broad daylight; accompanied by the summer visitors; destroyed the
wall and threw the materials into the sea。 Lawrence; bent on
maintaining what he considered his rights; called the law to his
aid。 It was then discovered that an immemorial riverain right gave
the fishermen and the public generally; access to the shore for
fishing; and also to collect seaweed; … a right of way that no one
could obstruct。
This was the beginning of the long struggle between the cliff…
dwellers and the townspeople; each new property…owner; disgusted at
the idea that all the world can stroll at will across his well…kept
lawns; has in turn tried his hand at suppressing the now famous
〃walk。〃 Not only do the public claim the liberty to walk there;
but also the right to cross any property to get to the shore。 At
this moment the city fathers and the committee of the new buildings
at Bailey's Beach are wrangling as gayly as in Governor Lawrence's
day over a bit of wall lately constructed across the end of
Bellevue Avenue。 A new expedient has been hit upon by some of the
would…be exclusive owners of the cliffs; they have lowered the
〃walk〃 out of sight; thus insuring their own privacy and in no way
interfering with the rights of the public。
Among the gentlemen who settled in Newport about Governor
Lawrence's time was Lord Baltimore (Mr。 Calvert; he preferred to
call himself); who remained there until his death。 He was shy of
referring to his English peerage; but would willingly talk of his
descent through his mother from Peter Paul Rubens; from whom had
come down to him a chateau in Holland and several splendid
paintings。 The latter hung in the parlor of the modest little
dwelling; where I was taken to see them and their owner many years
ago。 My introducer on this occasion was herself a lady of no
ordinary birth; being the daughter of Stuart; our greatest portrait
painter。 I have passed many quiet hours in the quaint studio (the
same her father had used); hearing her prattle … as she loved to do
if she found a sympathetic listener … of her father; of Washington
and his pompous ways; and the many celebrities who had in turn
posed before Stuart's easel。 She had been her father's companion
and aid; present at the sittings; preparing his brushes and colors;
and painting in backgrounds and accessories; and would willingly
show his palette and explain his methods and theories of color; his
predilection for scrumbling shadows thinly in black and then
painting boldly in with body color。 Her lessons had not profited
much to the gentle; kindly old lady; for the productions of her own
brush were far from resembling her great parent's work。 She;
however; painted cheerfully on to life's close; surrounded by her
many friends; foremost among whom was Charlotte Cushman; who also
passed the last years of her life in Newport。 Miss Stuart was over
eighty when I last saw her; still full of spirit and vigor;
beginning the portrait of a famous beauty of that day; since the
wife and mother of dukes。
Miss Stuart's death seems to close one of the chapters in the
history of this city; and to break the last connecting link with
its past。 The world moves so quickly that the simple days and
modest amusements of our fathers and grandfathers have already
receded into misty remoteness。 We look at their portraits and
wonder vaguely at their graceless costumes。 We know they trod
these same streets; and laughed and flirted and married as we are
doing to…day; but they seem to us strangely far away; like
inhabitants of another sphere!
It is humiliating to think how soon we; too; shall have become the
ancestors of a new and careless generation; fresh faces will
replace our faded ones; young voices will laugh as they look at our
portraits hanging in dark corners; wondering who we were; and
(criticising the apparel we think so artistic and appropriate) how
we could ever have made such guys of ourselves。
CHAPTER 38 … A Conquest of Europe
THE most important event in modern history is the discovery of
Europe by the Americans。 Before it; the peoples of the Old World
lived happy and contented in their own countries; practising the
patriarchal virtues handed down to them from generations of
forebears; ignoring alike the vices and benefits of modern
civilization; as understood on this side of the Atlantic。 The
simple…minded Europeans remained at home; satisfied with the rank
in life where they had been born; and innocent of the ways of the
new world。
These peoples were; on the whole; not so much to be pitied; for
they had many pleasing crafts and arts unknown to the invaders;
which had enabled them to decorate their capitals with taste in a
rude way; nothing really great like the lofty buildings and
elevated railway structures; executed in American cities; but
interesting as showing what an ingenious race; deprived of the
secrets of modern science; could accomplish。
The more aesthetic of the newcomers even affected to admire the
antiquated places of worship and residences they visited abroad;
pointing out to their compatriots that in many cases marble; bronze
and other old…fashioned materials had been so cleverly treated as
to look almost like the superior cast…iron employed at home; and
that some of the old paintings; preserved with veneration in the
museums; had nearly the brilliancy of modern chromos。 As their
authors had; however; neglected to use a process lending itself to
rapid reproduction; they were of no practical value。 In other
ways; the continental races; when discovered; were sadly behind the
times。 In business; they ignored the use of 〃corners;〃 that
backbone of American trade; and their ideas of advertising were but
little in advance of those known among the ancient Greeks。
The discovery of Europe by the Americans was made about 1850; at
which date the first bands of adventurers crossed the seas in
search of amusement。 The reports these pioneers brought back of
the NAIVETE; politeness; and gullibility of the natives; and the
cheapness of existence in their cities; caused a general exodus
from the western to the eastern hemisphere。 Most of the Americans
who had used up their credit at home and those whose incomes were
insufficient for their wants; immediately migrated to these happy
hunting grounds; where life was inexpensive and credit unlimited。
The first arrivals enjoyed for some twenty years unique
opportunities。 They were able to live in splendor for a pittance
that would barely have kept them in necessaries on their own side
of the Atlantic; and to pick up valuable specimens of native
handiwork for nominal sums。 In those happy days; to belong to the
invading race was a sufficient passport to the good graces of the
Europeans; who asked no other guarantees before trading with the
newcomers; but flocked around them; offering their services and
their primitive manufactures; convinced that Americans were all
wealthy。
Alas! History ever repeats itself。 As Mexicans and Peruvians;
after receiving their conquerors with confidence and enthusiasm;
came to rue the day they had opened their arms to strangers; so the
European peoples; before a quarter of a century was over; realized
that the hordes from across the sea who were over…running their
lands; raising prices; crowding the native students out of the
schools; and finally attempting to force an entrance into society;
had little to recommend them or justify their presence except
money。 Even in this some of the intruders were unsatisfactory。
Those who had been received into the 〃bosom〃 of hotels often forgot
to settle before departing。 The continental women who had provided
the wives of discoverers with the raiment of the country (a luxury
greatly affected by those ladies) found; to their disgust; that
th