an old town by the sea(滨海古城)-第3节
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Between thisTrefethren's Islandand Peirce's Island lie the Narrows。
Perhaps a bark or a sloop…of…war is making up to town； the hulk is hidden
amoung the islands； and the topmasts have the effect of sweeping across
the dry land。 On your left is a long bridge； more than a quarter of a mile in
length； set upon piles where the water is twenty or thirty feet deep； leading
to the navy yard and Kitterythe Kittery so often the theme of Whittier's
verse。
This is a mere outline of the landscape that spreads before you。 Its
changeful beauty of form and color； with the summer clouds floating over
it； is not to be painted in words。 I know of many a place where the scenery
is more varied and striking； but there is a mandragora quality in the
atmosphere here that holds you to the spot； and makes the half…hours seem
like minutes。 I could fancy a man sitting on the end of that old wharf very
contentedly for two or three years； provided it could be always in June。
Perhaps； too； one would desire it to be always high water。 The tide
falls from eight to twelve feet； and when the water makes out between the
wharves some of the picturesqueness makes out also。 A corroded section
of stovepipe mailed in barnacles； or the skeleton of a hoopskirt protruding
from the tide mud like the remains of some old…time wreck； is apt to break
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An Old Town By The Sea
the enchantment。
I fear I have given the reader an exaggerated idea of the solitude that
reigns along the river…side。 Sometimes there is society here of an
unconventional kind； if you care to seek it。 Aside from the foreign
gentleman before mentioned； you are likely to encounter； farther down the
shore toward the Point of Graves （a burial…place of the colonial period）； a
battered and aged native fisherman boiling lobsters on a little gravelly
bench； where the river whispers and lisps among the pebbles as the tide
creeps in。 It is a weather…beaten ex…skipper or ex…pilot； with strands of
coarse hair； like seaweed； falling about a face that has the expression of a
half…open clam。 He is always ready to talk with you； this amphibious
person； and if he is not the most entertaining of gossipsmore weather…
wise that Old Probabilities； and as full of moving incident as Othello
himselfthen he is not the wintery…haired shipman I used to see a few
years ago on the strip of beach just beyond Liberty Bridge； building his
drift…wood fire under a great tin boiler； and making it lively for a lot of
reluctant lobsters。
I imagine that very little change has taken place in this immediate
locality； known prosaically as Puddle Dock； during the past fifty or sixty
years。 The view you get looking across Liberty Bridge； Water Street； is
probably the same in every respect that presented itself to the eyes of the
town folk a century ago。 The flagstaff； on the right； is the representative
of the old 〃standard of liberty〃 which the Sons planted on this spot in
January； 1766； signalizing their opposition to the enforcement of the
Stamp Act。 On the same occasion the patriots called at the house of Mr。
George Meserve； the agent for distributing the stamps in New Hampshire；
and relieved him of his stamp…master's commission； which document they
carried on the point of a sword through the town to Liberty Bridge （the
Swing Bridge）； where they erected the staff； with the motto； 〃Liberty；
Property； and no Stamp！〃
The Stamp Act was to go into operation on the first day of November。
On the previous morning the 〃New Hampshire Gazette〃 appeared with a
deep black border and all the typographical emblems of affliction； for was
not Liberty dead？ At all events； the 〃Gazette〃 itself was as good as dead；
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An Old Town By The Sea
since the printer could no longer publish it if he were to be handicapped by
a heavy tax。 〃The day was ushered in by the tolling of all the bells in town；
the vessels in the harbor had their colors hoisted half…mast high； about
three o'clock a funeral procession was formed； having a coffin with this
inscription； LIBERTY； AGED 145； STAMPT。 It moved from the state
house； with two unbraced drums； through the principal streets。 As it
passed the Parade； minute…guns were fired； at the place of interment a
speech was delivered on the occasion； stating the many advantages we had
received and the melancholy prospect before us； at the seeming departure
of our invaluable liberties。 But some sign of life appearing； Liberty was
not deposited in the grave； it was rescued by a number of her sons； the
motto changed to Liberty revived； and carried off in triumph。 The
detestable Act was buried in its stead； and the clods of the valley were laid
upon it； the bells changed their melancholy sound to a more joyful tone。〃
（1。 Annals of Portsmouth； by Nathaniel Adams； 1825。）
With this side glance at one of the curious humors of the time； we
resume our peregrinations。
Turning down a lane on your left； a few rods beyond Liberty Bridge；
you reach a spot known as the Point of Graves； chiefly interesting as
showing what a graveyard may come to if it last long enough。 In 1671
one Captain John Pickering； of whom we shall have more to say； ceded to
the town a piece of ground on this neck for burial purposes。 It is an odd…
shaped lot； comprising about half an acre； inclosed by a crumbling red
brick wall two or three feet high； with wood capping。 The place is
overgrown with thistles； rank grass； and fungi； the black slate headstones
have mostly fallen over； those that still make a pretense of standing slant
to every point of the compass； and look as if they were being blown this
way and that by a mysterious gale which leaves everything else untouched；
the mounds have sunk to the common level； and the old underground
tombs have collapsed。 Here and there the moss and weeds you can pick
out some name that shines in the history of the early settlement； hundreds
of the flower of the colony lie here； but the known and the unknown；
gentle and simple； mingle their dust on a perfect equality now。 The
marble that once bore a haughty coat of arms is as smooth as the humblest
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slate stone guiltless of heraldry。 The lion and the unicorn； wherever they
appear on some cracked slab； are very much tamed by time。 The once
fat…faced cherubs； with wing at either cheek； are the merest skeletons now。
Pride； pomp； grief； and remembrance are all at end。 No reverent feet
come here； no tears fall here； the old graveyard itself is dead！ A more
dismal； uncanny spot than this at twilight would be hard to find。 It is
noticed that when the boys pass it after nightfall； they always go by
whistling with a gayety that is perfectly hollow。
Let us get into some cheerfuler neighborhood！ III。 A STROLL
ABOUT TOWN
AS you leave the river front behind you； and pass 〃up town；〃 the
streets grow wider； and the architecture becomes more ambitiousstreets
fringed with beautiful old trees and lined with commodious private
dwellings； mostly square white houses； with spacious halls running
through the centre。 Previous to the Revolution； white paint was seldom
used on houses； and the diamond…shaped window pane was almost
universal。 Many of the residences stand back from the brick or flagstone
sidewalk； and have pretty gardens at the side or in the rear； made bright
with dahlias and sweet with cinnamon roses。 If you chance to live in a
town where the authorities cannot rest until they
