selected writings-第18节
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〃You sit down by the side of a spring which gushes out from the
foot of an oak; amid a covering of fragile herbs; growing and
redolent of life。 You go down on your knees; bend forward; and
drink the cold and pellucid water; wetting your mustache and
nose; you drink it with a physical pleasure; as though you were
kissing the spring; lip to lip。 Sometimes; when you encounter a
deep hole; along the course of these tiny brooks; you plunge into
it; quite naked; and on your skin; from head to foot; like an icy
and delicious caress; you feel the lovely and gentle quivering of
the current。
〃You are gay on the hills; melancholy on the verge of pools;
exalted when the sun is crowned in an ocean of blood…red shadows;
and when it casts on the rivers its red reflection。 And at night;
under the moon; as it passes across the vault of heaven; you
think of things; singular things; which would never have occurred
to your mind under the brilliant light of day。
〃So; in wandering through the same country we are in this year; I
came to the little village of Benouville; on the Falaise; between
Yport and Etretat。 I came from Fecamp; following the coast; a
high coast; perpendicular as a wall; with projecting and rugged
rocks falling sheer down into the sea。 I had walked since the
morning on the close clipped grass; as smooth and as yielding as
a carpet。 Singing lustily; I walked with long strides; looking
sometimes at the slow and lazy flight of a gull; with its short;
white wings; sailing in the blue heavens; sometimes at the green
sea; or at the brown sails of a fishing bark。 In short; I had
passed a happy day; a day of listlessness and of liberty。
〃I was shown a little farmhouse; where travelers were put up; a
kind of inn; kept by a peasant; which stood in the center of a
Norman court; surrounded by a double row of beeches。
〃Quitting the Falaise。 I gained the hamlet; which was hemmed in
by great trees; and I presented myself at the house of Mother
Lecacheur。
〃She was an old; wrinkled; and austere rustic; who always seemed
to yield to the pressure of new customs with a kind of contempt。
〃It was the month of May: the spreading apple…trees covered the
court with a whirling shower of blossoms which rained unceasingly
both upon people and upon the grass。
〃I said:
〃 'Well; Madame Lecacheur; have you a room for me?'
〃Astonished to find that I knew her name; she answered:
〃 'That depends; everything is let; but; all the same; there will
be no harm in looking。'
〃In five minutes we were in perfect accord; and I deposited my
bag upon the bare floor of a rustic room; furnished with a bed;
two chairs; a table; and a washstand。 The room opened into the
large and smoky kitchen; where the lodgers took their meals with
the people of the farm and with the farmer himself; who was a
widower。
〃I washed my hands; after which I went out。 The old woman was
fricasseeing a chicken for dinner in a large fireplace; in which
hung the stew…pot; black with smoke。
〃 'You have travelers; then; at the present time?' said I to her。
〃She answered in an offended tone of voice:
〃 'I have a lady; an English lady; who has attained to years of
maturity。 She is occupying my other room。'
〃By means of an extra five sous a day; I obtained the privilege
of dining out in the court when the weather was fine。
〃My cover was then placed in front of the door; and I commenced
to gnaw with hunger the lean members of the Normandy chicken; to
drink the clear cider; and to munch the hunk of white bread;
which; though four days old; was excellent。
〃Suddenly; the wooden barrier which opened on to the highway was
opened; and a strange person directed her steps toward the house。
She was very slender; very tall; enveloped in a Scotch shawl with
red borders。 You would have believed that she had no arms; if you
had not seen a long hand appear just above the hips; holding a
white tourist umbrella。 The face of a mummy; surrounded with
sausage rolls of plaited gray hair; which bounded at every step
she took; made me think; I know not why; of a sour herring
adorned with curling papers。 Lowering her eyes; she passed
quickly in front of me; and entered the house。
〃This singular apparition made me curious。 She undoubtedly was my
neighbor; the aged English lady of whom our hostess had spoken。
〃I did not see her again that day。 The next day; when I had begun
to paint at the end of that beautiful valley; which you know
extends as far as Etretat; lifting my eyes suddenly; I perceived
something singularly attired standing on the crest of the
declivity; it looked like a pole decked out with flags。 It was
she。 On seeing me; she suddenly disappeared。 I re…entered the
house at midday for lunch; and took my seat at the common table;
so as to make the acquaintance of this old and original creature。
But she did not respond to my polite advances; was insensible
even to my little attentions。 I poured water out for her with
great alacrity; I passed her the dishes with great eagerness。 A
slight; almost imperceptible movement of the head; and an English
word; murmured so low that I did not understand it; were her
only acknowledgments。
〃I ceased occupying myself with her; although she had disturbed
my thoughts。 At the end of three days; I knew as much about her
as did Madame Lecacheur herself。
〃She was called Miss Harriet。 Seeking out a secluded village in
which to pass the summer; she had been attracted to Benouville;
some six months before; and did not seem disposed to quit it。 She
never spoke at table; ate rapidly; reading all the while a small
book; treating of some Protestant propaganda。 She gave a copy of
it to everybody。 The cure himself had received no less than four
copies; at the hands of an urchin to whom she had paid two sous'
commission。 She said sometimes to our hostess; abruptly; without
preparing herin the least for the declaration:
〃 'I love the Saviour more than all; I worship him in all
creation; I adore him in all nature; I carry him always in my
heart。'
〃And she would immediately present the old woman with one of her
brochures which were destined to convert the universe。
〃In the village she was not liked。 In fact; the schoolmaster had
declared that she was an atheist; and that a sort of reproach
attached to her。 The cure; who had been consulted by Madame
Lecacheur; responded:
〃 'She is a heretic; but God does not wish the death of the
sinner; and I believe her to be a person of pure morals。'
〃These words; 'atheist;' 'heretic;' words which no one can
precisely define; threw doubts into some minds。 It was asserted;
however; that this English…woman was rich; and that she had
passed her life in traveling through every country in the world;
because her family had thrown her off。 Why had her family thrown
her off? Because of her natural impiety?
〃She was; in fact; one of those people of exalted principles; one
of those opinionated puritans of whom England produces so many;
one of those good and insupportable old women who haunt the
tables d'hote of every hotel in Europe; who spoil Italy; poison
Switzerland; render the charming cities of the Mediterranean
uninhabitable; carry everywhere their fantastic manias; their
petrified vestal manners; their indescribable toilettes; and a
certain odor of india…rubber; which makes one believe that at
night they slip themselves into a case of that material。 When I
meet one of these people in a hotel; I act like birds which see a
manikin in a field。
〃This woman; however; appeared so singular that she did not
displease me。
〃Madame Lecacheur; hostile by instinct to everything that was not
rustic; felt in her narrow soul a kind of hatred for the ecstatic
extravagances of the old girl。 She had found a phrase by which to
describe her; I know not how; but a phrase assuredly
contemptuous; which had sprung to her lips; invented probably by
some confused and mysterious travail of soul。 She said: 'That
woman is a demoniac。' This phrase; as uttered by that austere and
sentimental creature; seemed to me irresistibly comic。 I; myself;
never called her now anything else but 'the demoniac。' feeling a
singular pleasure in pronouncing this word on seeing her。
〃I would ask Mother Lecacheur: 'Well; what is our demoniac about
to…day?' To which my rustic friend would respond; with an air of
having been scandalized:
〃 'What do you think; sir? She has picked up a toad which has had
its leg battered; and carried it to her room; and has put it in
her washstand; and dressed it up like a man。 If that is not
profanation; I should like to know what is!'
〃On another occasion; when walking along the Falaise; she had
bought a large fish which had just been caught; simply to throw
it back into the sea again。 The sailor; from whom she had bought
it; thou