letters on sweden, norway, and denmark-第29节
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I took a barge with a German baron who was hastening back from a tour into Denmark； alarmed by the intelligence of the French having passed the Rhine。 His conversation beguiled the time； and gave a sort of stimulus to my spirits； which had been growing more and more languid ever since my return to Gothenburg； you know why。 I had often endeavoured to rouse myself to observation by reflecting that I was passing through scenes which I should probably never see again； and consequently ought not to omit observing。 Still I fell into reveries； thinking； by way of excuse； that enlargement of mind and refined feelings are of little use but to barb the arrows of sorrow which waylay us everywhere； eluding the sagacity of wisdom and rendering principles unavailing； if considered as a breastwork to secure our own hearts。
Though we had not a direct wind； we were not detained more than three hours and a half on the water； just long enough to give us an appetite for our dinner。
We travelled the remainder of the day and the following night in company with the same party； the German gentleman whom I have mentioned； his friend； and servant。 The meetings at the post…houses were pleasant to me； who usually heard nothing but strange tongues around me。 Marguerite and the child often fell asleep； and when they were awake I might still reckon myself alone； as our train of thoughts had nothing in common。 Marguerite； it is true； was much amused by the costume of the women； particularly by the pannier which adorned both their heads and tails； and with great glee recounted to me the stories she had treasured up for her family when once more within the barriers of dear Paris； not forgetting； with that arch； agreeable vanity peculiar to the French； which they exhibit whilst half ridiculing it； to remind me of the importance she should assume when she informed her friends of all her journeys by sea and land； showing the pieces of money she had collected； and stammering out a few foreign phrases； which she repeated in a true Parisian accent。 Happy thoughtlessness！ ay； and enviable harmless vanity； which thus produced a gaite du coeur worth all my philosophy！
The man I had hired at Copenhagen advised me to go round about twenty miles to avoid passing the Little Belt excepting by a ferry； as the wind was contrary。 But the gentlemen overruled his arguments； which we were all very sorry for afterwards； when we found ourselves becalmed on the Little Belt ten hours； tacking about without ceasing； to gain the shore。
An oversight likewise made the passage appear much more tedious； nay； almost insupportable。 When I went on board at the Great Belt； I had provided refreshments in case of detention； which remaining untouched I thought not then any such precaution necessary for the second passage； misled by the epithet of 〃little；〃 though I have since been informed that it is frequently the longest。 This mistake occasioned much vexation； for the child； at last； began to cry so bitterly for bread； that fancy conjured up before me the wretched Ugolino； with his famished children； and I； literally speaking； enveloped myself in sympathetic horrors； augmented by every fear my babe shed； from which I could not escape till we landed； and a luncheon of bread and basin of milk routed the spectres of fancy。
I then supped with my companions； with whom I was soon after to part for everalways a most melancholy death…like ideaa sort of separation of soul； for all the regret which follows those from whom fate separates us seems to be something torn from ourselves。 These were strangers I remember； yet when there is any originality in a countenance； it takes its place in our memory； and we are sorry to lose an acquaintance the moment he begins to interest us； through picked up on the highway。 There was； in fact； a degree of intelligence； and still more sensibility； in the features and conversation of one of the gentlemen； that made me regret the loss of his society during the rest of the journey； for he was compelled to travel post； by his desire to reach his estate before the arrival of the French。
This was a comfortable inn； as were several others I stopped at； but the heavy sandy roads were very fatiguing； after the fine ones we had lately skimmed over both in Sweden and Denmark。 The country resembled the most open part of Englandlaid out for corn rather than grazing。 It was pleasant； yet there was little in the prospects to awaken curiosity； by displaying the peculiar characteristics of a new country； which had so frequently stole me from myself in Norway。 We often passed over large unenclosed tracts； not graced with trees； or at least very sparingly enlivened by them； and the half…formed roads seemed to demand the landmarks； set up in the waste； to prevent the traveller from straying far out of his way； and plodding through the wearisome sand。
The heaths were dreary； and had none of the wild charms of those of Sweden and Norway to cheat time； neither the terrific rocks； nor smiling herbage grateful to the sight and scented from afar； made us forget their length。 Still the country appeared much more populous； and the towns； if not the farmhouses； were superior to those of Norway。 I even thought that the inhabitants of the former had more intelligenceat least； I am sure they had more vivacity in their countenances than I had seen during my northern tour： their senses seemed awake to business and pleasure。 I was therefore gratified by hearing once more the busy hum of industrious men in the day； and the exhilarating sounds of joy in the evening； for； as the weather was still fine； the women and children were amusing themselves at their doors； or walking under the trees； which in many places were planted in the streets； and as most of the towns of any note were situated on little bays or branches of the Baltic； their appearance as we approached was often very picturesque； and； when we entered； displayed the comfort and cleanliness of easy； if not the elegance of opulent； circumstances。 But the cheerfulness of the people in the streets was particularly grateful to me； after having been depressed by the deathlike silence of those of Denmark； where every house made me think of a tomb。 The dress of the peasantry is suited to the climate； in short； none of that poverty and dirt appeared； at the sight of which the heart sickens。
As I only stopped to change horses； take refreshment； and sleep； I had not an opportunity of knowing more of the country than conclusions which the information gathered by my eyes enabled me to draw； and that was sufficient to convince me that I should much rather have lived in some of the towns I now pass through than in any I had seen in Sweden or Denmark。 The people struck me as having arrived at that period when the faculties will unfold themselves； in short； they look alive to improvement； neither congealed by indolence； nor bent down by wretchedness to servility。
From the previous impressionI scarcely can trace whence I received itI was agreeably surprised to perceive such an appearance of comfort in this part of Germany。 I had formed a conception of the tyranny of the petty potentates that had thrown a gloomy veil over the face of the whole country in my imagination； that cleared away like the darkness of night before the sun as I saw the reality。 I should probably have discovered much lurking misery； the consequence of ignorant oppression； no doubt； had I had time to inquire into particulars； but it did not stalk abroad and infect the surface over which my eye glanced。 Yes； I am persuaded that a considerable degree of general knowledge pervades this country； for it is only from the exercise of the mind that the body acquires the activity from which I drew these inferences。 Indeed； the King of Denmark's German dominionsHolsteinappeared to me far superior to any other part of his kingdom which had fallen under my view； and the robust rustics to have their muscles braced； instead of the； as it were； lounge of the Danish peasantry。
Arriving at Sleswick； the residence of Prince Charles of Hesse… Cassel； the sight of the soldiers recalled all the unpleasing ideas of German despotism； which imperceptibly vanished as I advanced into the country。 I viewed； with a mixture of pity and horror； these beings training to be sold to slaughter； or be slaughtered； and fell into reflections on an old opinion of mine； that it is the preservation of the species； not of individuals； which appears to be the design of the Deity throughout the whole of Nature。 Blossoms come forth only to be blighted； fish lay their spawn where it will be devoured； and what a large portion of the human race are born merely to be swept prematurely away！ Does not this waste of budding life emphatically assert that it is not men； but Man； whose preservation is so necessary to the completion of the grand plan of the universe？ Children peep into existence； suffer； and die； men play like moths about a candle； and sink into the flame； war； and 〃the thousand ills which flesh is heir to；〃 mow them down in shoals； whilst the more cruel prejudices of society palsy existence； introducing not less sure though slower decay。
The castle was heavy and gloomy； yet the
